b18c turbo
#1
b18c turbo
i have civic hatch 92.. it has a gsr motor in it... i was decided if i wanted to go turbo or na.. i decided to go turbo.. i brought my car into a shop on Manitou Dr. Kitchener@ saisin motors i belive its called.. they gave me a quote for 8,000 for complete turbo set up.. thats not doing nothing to the head or the bottom end.. i will only be aloud to boost up to 12 psi's... what do u guys reccomend take the offer or.. is that way to over priced.. i have cash to do this stuff anyone want to let me know where to go or got any better offers... let me know im ready to start this in begging of sept. thanks guys
#2
I got a friend selling a kick *** turbo kit bran new for 2800$
t3/to4e .57trim.. ramhorn, 3" dp, open dumtube, tial wg, tial bov, precision 30x8x3.5" IC couplers, etc.
It's only missing injectors (which I have) and chargepiping.
$8000 for a turbo kit is ridicilous even with install and tuning.
t3/to4e .57trim.. ramhorn, 3" dp, open dumtube, tial wg, tial bov, precision 30x8x3.5" IC couplers, etc.
It's only missing injectors (which I have) and chargepiping.
$8000 for a turbo kit is ridicilous even with install and tuning.
#6
that is far too much. with a quote that high i'd be inclined to say they have little experience with a requests such as your's. like was mentioned above, for that kinda cake, you could build a very powerful setup and motor pushing probably 20psi or more.
#8
i have a gsr in my 96 ek and i am dropping my turbo in... put it this way... after install and tunning.. ill be looking at roughly 1700-2000 and thats including the price of the turbo too. i got itt off the boards... it'l be running 7psi...
also... if they are doing nothing to the motor... i wouldn,t be unning 12psi on a stock motor... that,s just asking to buy another one in a month or so...
also... if they are doing nothing to the motor... i wouldn,t be unning 12psi on a stock motor... that,s just asking to buy another one in a month or so...
#9
Originally posted by mikepasini
also... if they are doing nothing to the motor... i wouldn,t be unning 12psi on a stock motor... that,s just asking to buy another one in a month or so...
also... if they are doing nothing to the motor... i wouldn,t be unning 12psi on a stock motor... that,s just asking to buy another one in a month or so...
obviously running around at 250whp+ daily is stupid but there's nothing wrong with turning up the boost high enough to hit the 300's on track days, as long as it's tuned for it.
#10
with the turbo set up he was going to give me was?
880CC
Hondata s300
3bar Map sensor
head studs
multiplayer still head gasket
255lph Fuel Pump
stage 1 2 3
wide band 02 sensors
air fuel gauge
oil preasure gauge
install turbo kit labour 2,800
where do u guys reccomend me bring to do up my car please email me or pm me pettahv@hotmail.com
880CC
Hondata s300
3bar Map sensor
head studs
multiplayer still head gasket
255lph Fuel Pump
stage 1 2 3
wide band 02 sensors
air fuel gauge
oil preasure gauge
install turbo kit labour 2,800
where do u guys reccomend me bring to do up my car please email me or pm me pettahv@hotmail.com
#11
are you ****ing ****ting me?
don't go there. Learn how to piece a turbo kit out yourself and buy all the parts individual. Pay someone to install it.. and pay someone to tune it. Shouldn't cost more than 5000$ in the long run for a really sweet kit.
don't go there. Learn how to piece a turbo kit out yourself and buy all the parts individual. Pay someone to install it.. and pay someone to tune it. Shouldn't cost more than 5000$ in the long run for a really sweet kit.
#13
well seeing how they are pulling your cylinder head putting studs in and what not giveing you hondata s300 and a wideband they are litterally goign ***** out for you
that seems alittle extreme you don't need to pull your head you dont' need hondata or a wideband
their price reflects the needless things like pulling head etc....
that seems alittle extreme you don't need to pull your head you dont' need hondata or a wideband
their price reflects the needless things like pulling head etc....
#14
Originally posted by dingus888
well seeing how they are pulling your cylinder head putting studs in and what not giveing you hondata s300 and a wideband they are litterally goign ***** out for you
that seems alittle extreme you don't need to pull your head you dont' need hondata or a wideband
their price reflects the needless things like pulling head etc....
well seeing how they are pulling your cylinder head putting studs in and what not giveing you hondata s300 and a wideband they are litterally goign ***** out for you
that seems alittle extreme you don't need to pull your head you dont' need hondata or a wideband
their price reflects the needless things like pulling head etc....
Well pulling the head and adding arp headstuds wouldn't be a bad idea on a high boost engine as head lift is associated with high boost, head lift = popped head gasket. But it does sound as though these don't really have a lot of experience, or do have alot and are really trying to hose you, hondata is unnecessary a $40 chip and a tune with crome would be fine. Less than half your quote would be more reasonable.
#16
Originally posted by 95bluelx
Well pulling the head and adding arp headstuds wouldn't be a bad idea on a high boost engine as head lift is associated with high boost, head lift = popped head gasket. But it does sound as though these don't really have a lot of experience, or do have alot and are really trying to hose you, hondata is unnecessary a $40 chip and a tune with crome would be fine. Less than half your quote would be more reasonable.
Well pulling the head and adding arp headstuds wouldn't be a bad idea on a high boost engine as head lift is associated with high boost, head lift = popped head gasket. But it does sound as though these don't really have a lot of experience, or do have alot and are really trying to hose you, hondata is unnecessary a $40 chip and a tune with crome would be fine. Less than half your quote would be more reasonable.
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Near roads with NO traffic travelling as fast as I can see
Posts: 163
$2800 is very steep for install - does that mean it will take them 1 week to install - a sign of inexperience, though no matter how much experience a shop has, they shouldn't be slapping it together in 8 hours with tuning. My uncle had Lingenfelter bolt-on a supercharger to his c5 vette and it took them 2 weeks and $13000 US... you get what you pay for. But if they quoted you with 800cc injectors, they don't know what they are doing - unless you told them you wanted to building the bottom to 450whp at a latter date - and they should have told you to buy bigger injectors when you do that.
outside of 800cc injectors for stock internals, their parts list is reasonable. a/f, o2, oil pressure are good things to have on a turbo car. For that price you should also be getting oil temp and egt with a 2-year warranty.
My 2 cents... don't listen to people trying to be cheap. The more you save now, the more you spend later (blatant rip-offs aside). Everyone should have oil and a/f (with w/b o2) gauges, they tell you when your parts and stock internals aren't keeping up or there is a problem with ecu, injectors, pump, etc. The egt tells you when its too much. The oil temp (which all cars, n/a or turbo, should have) tell you when the motor is properly warmed up... revving to 8+k rpm with cold oil is asking for damaged piston rings and valve seals... and people wonder why they burn oil. Oil temp also tells you when it's time to give the car a rest... there is a time lag between the coolant/water temp and the oil temp - coolant comes on much faster than oil at startup, and overheats slower than oil - a recipe for disaster.
Getting all the parts off this site will save you money, but not all of us know what we need, what works well, and what condition it is in. Buying new through a knowedgable shop is worth the extra few dollars and saves you a lot of headache when stuff doesn't work. I have seen people pay tons of extra labour money (and parts money) when the turbo they bought from here breaks, when the built bottom end they got off e-bay for $1000 leaks, or the exhaust manifold cracks. Buying new through a shop is like getting the warranty at futureshop... it costs more, but when things don't work, you're glad you paid the extra money, because it now someone elses problem and not yours.
800cc injectors... 250whp? the car will idle like s**t. 440's are good for ~300 crank hp.
outside of 800cc injectors for stock internals, their parts list is reasonable. a/f, o2, oil pressure are good things to have on a turbo car. For that price you should also be getting oil temp and egt with a 2-year warranty.
My 2 cents... don't listen to people trying to be cheap. The more you save now, the more you spend later (blatant rip-offs aside). Everyone should have oil and a/f (with w/b o2) gauges, they tell you when your parts and stock internals aren't keeping up or there is a problem with ecu, injectors, pump, etc. The egt tells you when its too much. The oil temp (which all cars, n/a or turbo, should have) tell you when the motor is properly warmed up... revving to 8+k rpm with cold oil is asking for damaged piston rings and valve seals... and people wonder why they burn oil. Oil temp also tells you when it's time to give the car a rest... there is a time lag between the coolant/water temp and the oil temp - coolant comes on much faster than oil at startup, and overheats slower than oil - a recipe for disaster.
Getting all the parts off this site will save you money, but not all of us know what we need, what works well, and what condition it is in. Buying new through a knowedgable shop is worth the extra few dollars and saves you a lot of headache when stuff doesn't work. I have seen people pay tons of extra labour money (and parts money) when the turbo they bought from here breaks, when the built bottom end they got off e-bay for $1000 leaks, or the exhaust manifold cracks. Buying new through a shop is like getting the warranty at futureshop... it costs more, but when things don't work, you're glad you paid the extra money, because it now someone elses problem and not yours.
800cc injectors... 250whp? the car will idle like s**t. 440's are good for ~300 crank hp.
#18
i know "one" person who responded in this thread can help you do all the custom pipings and manifolds like that... you can order a turbo on H-T. look for some injectors... and there's two people who also replied in this thread can help you installed and tuned for a decent price... for 8g, you can probably attack the internals too... like pistons, valvetrains, new gaskets, new fuel pump, new timing belts, water pump... and get some good tires and a clutch as well =)
consider you piece your parts for a good price...
consider you piece your parts for a good price...
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Near roads with NO traffic travelling as fast as I can see
Posts: 163
1000cc idle like stock. That's like saying I do a good job at work after I smoke crack.
The stock injectors are 240cc. That means there is 4 times the difference of apparent duty cycle, i.e., 4%, 8%, 12%, 16%, etc. That doesn't make for good control of the air/fuel ratio, like 1%, 2%, 3% - especially at startup and in the cold. You have little control at idle with big injectors. It idles or doesn't - maybe at 1000+rpm it idles fine after warming up - or maybe its been a long time since you've been near a new stock Honda or Toyota.
Yes, a 1000cc injector might idle like stock, but I'd put my money on it not idling like stock in 95% of installations.
The stock injectors are 240cc. That means there is 4 times the difference of apparent duty cycle, i.e., 4%, 8%, 12%, 16%, etc. That doesn't make for good control of the air/fuel ratio, like 1%, 2%, 3% - especially at startup and in the cold. You have little control at idle with big injectors. It idles or doesn't - maybe at 1000+rpm it idles fine after warming up - or maybe its been a long time since you've been near a new stock Honda or Toyota.
Yes, a 1000cc injector might idle like stock, but I'd put my money on it not idling like stock in 95% of installations.