b16 upgrades??
#1
b16 upgrades??
heyyyyyyyy
whats up,
even though we got a couple months of snow left,
i want to see my options for the spring:
i got a 2000 civic sir,
and i wanted some more performance,
and by performance, i mean speed/acceleration.
I need the best setup i can do for MOST juice for the LOWEST price. (im aiming towards spending around 1,500-2,000)
I already have AEM cold air,
my plan was to get some headers and a new exhaust to complete my flow system? but then theres vtec timers, cams, etc, etc, etc, etc....
WHATS YOUR RECOMMENDATION?
thanks----
whats up,
even though we got a couple months of snow left,
i want to see my options for the spring:
i got a 2000 civic sir,
and i wanted some more performance,
and by performance, i mean speed/acceleration.
I need the best setup i can do for MOST juice for the LOWEST price. (im aiming towards spending around 1,500-2,000)
I already have AEM cold air,
my plan was to get some headers and a new exhaust to complete my flow system? but then theres vtec timers, cams, etc, etc, etc, etc....
WHATS YOUR RECOMMENDATION?
thanks----
#4
I'd say go I/h/e adn high flow cat for now
get a dc header
high flow cat
2 1/4 mandrel piping with a nice magnaflow (not the canister bullshit)
you will only get real speed if you spend 3-5 thousand..cams are atleast 900-1200 bux..a turbo kit is liek 5-6000 for a half decent one with half decent managment
get a dc header
high flow cat
2 1/4 mandrel piping with a nice magnaflow (not the canister bullshit)
you will only get real speed if you spend 3-5 thousand..cams are atleast 900-1200 bux..a turbo kit is liek 5-6000 for a half decent one with half decent managment
#5
I'd say get the most restrictive piping possible ..
ok I'm joking here...
read in the (I think it's the archives now) my rant on what to do to a car to gfet better performance....from the bolt ons....
ok I'm joking here...
read in the (I think it's the archives now) my rant on what to do to a car to gfet better performance....from the bolt ons....
#9
Originally posted by bbarbulo
how important is driveability and reliability. it's funny that no one ever asks that
how important is driveability and reliability. it's funny that no one ever asks that
seriously though he didn't mention those so I like to assume they aren't important and cost is the only concern... maybe that will change in 20 years after hearing starts to go from the loud *** exhuast and the neck is permenantly bent from doing the "lean" in the car with the seat reclined..... and the hands and arms are all cramped up from all the extra work they had to do to turn the wheels because of poor suspension geometry....
seriously they don't mention it so I ignore those facts in my reply... ask a question without all the information and get a reply without all the details ....
but thats just me ranting and raving...
#10
2000 SIR is pretty fast in my book (well maybe not in yours). You should focus on handling.
2000 can probably yeild you a homemade turbo, which will be the best bang for the buck type of upgrade. But your car is only good going straight line. The stock front/rear sway bar won't be much helpful with such power increase.
If you just want to increase acceleratio, and focus on performance only, I think you could:
1) sell your SIR rims for 5 to 600 and get a set of HX rims. Reduce rim weight will also help your initial pickup. Not sure if you can trade a set straight up, but you could try.
2) Bore your TB and port match intake manifold. More air coming in for a better mixture and increase the vol.
3) Lighten flywheel for pick up speed.
4) Get used ITR/CTR cams.
5) Put it on a dyno and tune it
6) Gut it
Step 2 & 3 can be done at Leitner Performance (click the banner on top). I forgot the price but it is not that expensive. If you have 2G to spend, I think you could accompolish the above. #6 depends on the percentage of rear passenger present at any given time. My rear is gutted because my rear is 95%+ empty so there is no use for back seats and whatnot. My gf hated the gutted look but even now she is used to it and wants me to keep it this way because no one sits in the back.
You should be able to gain 10+ or more HP. If you like your rims, spend some more money and get your 4 cylinder port & polished.
Just some suggestions.
2000 can probably yeild you a homemade turbo, which will be the best bang for the buck type of upgrade. But your car is only good going straight line. The stock front/rear sway bar won't be much helpful with such power increase.
If you just want to increase acceleratio, and focus on performance only, I think you could:
1) sell your SIR rims for 5 to 600 and get a set of HX rims. Reduce rim weight will also help your initial pickup. Not sure if you can trade a set straight up, but you could try.
2) Bore your TB and port match intake manifold. More air coming in for a better mixture and increase the vol.
3) Lighten flywheel for pick up speed.
4) Get used ITR/CTR cams.
5) Put it on a dyno and tune it
6) Gut it
Step 2 & 3 can be done at Leitner Performance (click the banner on top). I forgot the price but it is not that expensive. If you have 2G to spend, I think you could accompolish the above. #6 depends on the percentage of rear passenger present at any given time. My rear is gutted because my rear is 95%+ empty so there is no use for back seats and whatnot. My gf hated the gutted look but even now she is used to it and wants me to keep it this way because no one sits in the back.
You should be able to gain 10+ or more HP. If you like your rims, spend some more money and get your 4 cylinder port & polished.
Just some suggestions.
#11
get breathers first...a dc header is fine for your needs....it's not liek he needs a hytech, mugan , or toda header or anyshit...i/h/e is the basis for all motor power..you need to get it breathing free first...then go into the motor liek cams (cams is where you will produce the most hp from) higher compression yada yada...jsut dont' get a stupid canister exhaust that is loud...maybe get a dc header with a itr exhaust for performance with a stock look and sound...something tells me with a dc header and intake and the itr exhaust woudl make it sound aggressive and not 4 cylinder wine
#12
haha... you're jokes if you think you can build a RELIABLE turbo for $2K LOL
You seem like a *******... you should get a Vortech supercharger for your car. It's idiot-proof and reliable. As for your budget... well, it blows it out of the water, but at least you'll have 300hp to get you to cheer you up.
You seem like a *******... you should get a Vortech supercharger for your car. It's idiot-proof and reliable. As for your budget... well, it blows it out of the water, but at least you'll have 300hp to get you to cheer you up.
#16
Originally posted by Nova_Dust
1) sell your SIR rims for 5 to 600 and get a set of HX rims. Reduce rim weight will also help your initial pickup. Not sure if you can trade a set straight up, but you could try.
1) sell your SIR rims for 5 to 600 and get a set of HX rims. Reduce rim weight will also help your initial pickup. Not sure if you can trade a set straight up, but you could try.
#17
^^^ you seem to be confused... do you want me to delete that too? LOL j/k
I no longer read entire threads... sorry... and affirmative, HX rims will NOT clear SiR calipers though I know for a fact 14 inch steelies will. Werd!
I no longer read entire threads... sorry... and affirmative, HX rims will NOT clear SiR calipers though I know for a fact 14 inch steelies will. Werd!
#18
Originally posted by bbarbulo
^^^ you seem to be confused... do you want me to delete that too? LOL j/k
I no longer read entire threads... sorry... and affirmative, HX rims will NOT clear SiR calipers though I know for a fact 14 inch steelies will. Werd!
^^^ you seem to be confused... do you want me to delete that too? LOL j/k
I no longer read entire threads... sorry... and affirmative, HX rims will NOT clear SiR calipers though I know for a fact 14 inch steelies will. Werd!
anyways for B16 performance have the head done by Leitner....
#19
Did somone say nitrous? must be hearing things
Just to explore all angles....
You could be a puss like me and spray that biatch! For 2,000 you could pick up a nice wet kit, walboro 255 fuelpump to keep it rich, cold pluggs/and new wires/cap/rotor, MSD SCI to ignite it all, and possibly still have some coin left over for a set of Kamakazi headders or a VAFC (depending on your shopping skills and patiants, and if you pay people to install ****) You could run a 75hp shot with $2,000...
nothing wrong with a little nitrous as long as you fully understand all the drawbacks.. And of course it depends on what kind of use the engin is going to get, like power on demand for a race, or just general zing zing through town..:shrug:
Just to explore all angles....
You could be a puss like me and spray that biatch! For 2,000 you could pick up a nice wet kit, walboro 255 fuelpump to keep it rich, cold pluggs/and new wires/cap/rotor, MSD SCI to ignite it all, and possibly still have some coin left over for a set of Kamakazi headders or a VAFC (depending on your shopping skills and patiants, and if you pay people to install ****) You could run a 75hp shot with $2,000...
nothing wrong with a little nitrous as long as you fully understand all the drawbacks.. And of course it depends on what kind of use the engin is going to get, like power on demand for a race, or just general zing zing through town..:shrug:
#20
lol,
wow,
18 replies in less than one day,
these forums really are helpful.
thanks for demm,
yah my incomes weak, im a petty student.
so i gots other expenses are being pulled from my modding...
so pretty much i cant really do **** with a "tiny" 2 grand?
well, i technically "could" except reliability and quality will be complete ****.... ANDDDD im not juss gunna chuck in anything.
Right, so as of now i can do the i/h/e system...
aaaaaaaaannnnndddddd thats about it.
damn.
Cams really cost $900?? you blew my mind. :S
i thought they were way cheaper.
thanks for the responses,
any more suggestions please post them---
wow,
18 replies in less than one day,
these forums really are helpful.
thanks for demm,
yah my incomes weak, im a petty student.
so i gots other expenses are being pulled from my modding...
so pretty much i cant really do **** with a "tiny" 2 grand?
well, i technically "could" except reliability and quality will be complete ****.... ANDDDD im not juss gunna chuck in anything.
Right, so as of now i can do the i/h/e system...
aaaaaaaaannnnndddddd thats about it.
damn.
Cams really cost $900?? you blew my mind. :S
i thought they were way cheaper.
thanks for the responses,
any more suggestions please post them---