B16 Externals....
08-Oct-2003, 07:19 PM
#1
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B16 Externals....
YOO !
I want to get some external compenants for my b16. What can I get and what type of brands ? I dont want to go cheap. I want good stuff that will last me and help me with my on going all motor set up.
Steve
I want to get some external compenants for my b16. What can I get and what type of brands ? I dont want to go cheap. I want good stuff that will last me and help me with my on going all motor set up.
Steve
08-Oct-2003, 07:31 PM
#3
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Originally posted by egproject
externals.. hmm..
not cheap?
mugen/comptech icebox
spoon/n1 catback
jdm hytech 4-1 header
itr IM/TB
vafc2
fpr/gauge
all i can think of right now ..
externals.. hmm..
not cheap?
mugen/comptech icebox
spoon/n1 catback
jdm hytech 4-1 header
itr IM/TB
vafc2
fpr/gauge
all i can think of right now ..
I have exhaust (minur header)
CAI
VAFC
09-Oct-2003, 09:44 AM
#4
"externals" are bolt-ons
namely, intake manifold, throttle body, cam gears, I/H/E, etc...
personally, I think you should have $5000 and buy the Vortech PowerCool centrifugal supercharger system. Sick torque and hp from a B16.
namely, intake manifold, throttle body, cam gears, I/H/E, etc...
personally, I think you should have $5000 and buy the Vortech PowerCool centrifugal supercharger system. Sick torque and hp from a B16.
09-Oct-2003, 10:02 AM
#6
what do you mean by "when I go all motor"... you are already all motor as it is 
unless you are spraying and not telling us about it 
first of all, fix what needs to be fixed with the car. Get a Kamikaze header to start, then (ARE YOU SURE you are staying all motor???) get a cam, cam gear, AEBS or ENDYN intake manifold and throttle body (matched), Leitner-worked head with Ti retainers and dual springs and SS valves, and get a new ignition (MSD
) and also get a Moroso oil pan with a baffle and vindage tray. Relocate battery to trunk using the Moroso kit... by this time you should be so poor that you'll be eating cat food
unless you are spraying and not telling us about it first of all, fix what needs to be fixed with the car. Get a Kamikaze header to start, then (ARE YOU SURE you are staying all motor???) get a cam, cam gear, AEBS or ENDYN intake manifold and throttle body (matched), Leitner-worked head with Ti retainers and dual springs and SS valves, and get a new ignition (MSD
) and also get a Moroso oil pan with a baffle and vindage tray. Relocate battery to trunk using the Moroso kit... by this time you should be so poor that you'll be eating cat food
09-Oct-2003, 10:08 AM
#7
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Location: Stoney Creek, Ontario
Posts: 3,657
Exactly
If you want to waste a ton of cash,
1. New header + Bolts
2. Cams
3. Adjustible Gears
4. Lightweight pulleys
5. Skunk2 Intake Manifold
then open the motor and have fun blowing away thousands on a civic :P
What about your 'audi'??
If you want to waste a ton of cash,
1. New header + Bolts
2. Cams
3. Adjustible Gears
4. Lightweight pulleys
5. Skunk2 Intake Manifold
then open the motor and have fun blowing away thousands on a civic :P
What about your 'audi'??
09-Oct-2003, 10:38 AM
#8
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Originally posted by Tman
Exactly
If you want to waste a ton of cash,
1. New header + Bolts
2. Cams
3. Adjustible Gears
4. Lightweight pulleys
5. Skunk2 Intake Manifold
then open the motor and have fun blowing away thousands on a civic :P
What about your 'audi'??
Exactly
If you want to waste a ton of cash,
1. New header + Bolts
2. Cams
3. Adjustible Gears
4. Lightweight pulleys
5. Skunk2 Intake Manifold
then open the motor and have fun blowing away thousands on a civic :P
What about your 'audi'??
Dont' know,
Either a fast nice civic, or a nice audi a4 black with some bling rims.
But then again, I am a kid......so as of right now, every kid wants a fast car.
09-Oct-2003, 10:41 AM
#9
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
what do you mean by "when I go all motor"... you are already all motor as it is unless you are spraying and not telling us about it
first of all, fix what needs to be fixed with the car. Get a Kamikaze header to start, then (ARE YOU SURE you are staying all motor???) get a cam, cam gear, AEBS or ENDYN intake manifold and throttle body (matched), Leitner-worked head with Ti retainers and dual springs and SS valves, and get a new ignition (MSD ) and also get a Moroso oil pan with a baffle and vindage tray. Relocate battery to trunk using the Moroso kit... by this time you should be so poor that you'll be eating cat food
what do you mean by "when I go all motor"... you are already all motor as it is
unless you are spraying and not telling us about it first of all, fix what needs to be fixed with the car. Get a Kamikaze header to start, then (ARE YOU SURE you are staying all motor???) get a cam, cam gear, AEBS or ENDYN intake manifold and throttle body (matched), Leitner-worked head with Ti retainers and dual springs and SS valves, and get a new ignition (MSD
) and also get a Moroso oil pan with a baffle and vindage tray. Relocate battery to trunk using the Moroso kit... by this time you should be so poor that you'll be eating cat food
What type of cams and cam gears ?
About staying all motor. I dont know if I should get an amazing header because in the future maybe i'll get a turbo. Or maybe some spray. Not sure.
What do you think (approx.) I could run with that setup bruno ?
09-Oct-2003, 10:45 AM
#10
there is a difference between "fast car" and "expensive Civic"
the two don't necessarily equate ya know
A fast Civic uses displacement to it's advantage due to the light weight, and uses boost to enhance the torque curve.
Ideally, a cheap but fast Civic uses a 1.8 or two point oh liters or displacement and uses a T3/T4 snail to put some wind in your sails. Stock internals of course... just fueling, ignition, and boost!!! No VTEC of course. You wanna be shifting at 6000-6500 rpm ideally, and use your fat torque band from boost to kick dust in the eye of the competition.
That's why I asked if you are SURE you wanted to stay all motor.
Audis are WAY more money than you got, so leave that idea for a few years down the road. ****, it's too much for me, and I work full time
the two don't necessarily equate ya know
A fast Civic uses displacement to it's advantage due to the light weight, and uses boost to enhance the torque curve.
Ideally, a cheap but fast Civic uses a 1.8 or two point oh liters or displacement and uses a T3/T4 snail to put some wind in your sails. Stock internals of course... just fueling, ignition, and boost!!! No VTEC of course. You wanna be shifting at 6000-6500 rpm ideally, and use your fat torque band from boost to kick dust in the eye of the competition.
That's why I asked if you are SURE you wanted to stay all motor.
Audis are WAY more money than you got, so leave that idea for a few years down the road. ****, it's too much for me, and I work full time
09-Oct-2003, 10:51 AM
#12
Oh, and for cams and cam gears.... there are many to choose from. Leitner has a line of cams, and then there are the classics, like CTR cams, Comp Cams, Gude, Bullfrog (by Gude), Skunk 2, Toda, JUN, and the list goes on. What you choose depends on your ultimate goal, which ultimately depends on your budget.
Cam gears... I'd do the Leitner set, though there are others to choose from... Skunk2, TODA, etc...
Spray and header can work together... but spray would also ask for a pump and injectors.
W/O spray, with the items I listed... assuming you had a couple of tuning days on a wideband dyno, slicks, cool weather, good driver, and proper chassis tuning (Z10 rods or Leitner equivalent), I'd say you would run a 14.8-14.9 but that's quite optimistic. In reality you'd prolly run a 15.2 or so.
Really you'd only shave a couple of tenths, but your trap MPH would improve drastically, prolly picking up about 5-8 MPH.
Cam gears... I'd do the Leitner set, though there are others to choose from... Skunk2, TODA, etc...
Spray and header can work together... but spray would also ask for a pump and injectors.
W/O spray, with the items I listed... assuming you had a couple of tuning days on a wideband dyno, slicks, cool weather, good driver, and proper chassis tuning (Z10 rods or Leitner equivalent), I'd say you would run a 14.8-14.9 but that's quite optimistic. In reality you'd prolly run a 15.2 or so.
Really you'd only shave a couple of tenths, but your trap MPH would improve drastically, prolly picking up about 5-8 MPH.
09-Oct-2003, 10:55 AM
#13
No, a turbo motor likes much different flow characterisitcs from an all motor engine. You couldn't just change the header and go turbo. You need to choose one or the other.
It's like a developer decides to build a highrise, and then a few years later convert it into a mall... it just doesn't work
It's like a developer decides to build a highrise, and then a few years later convert it into a mall... it just doesn't work
09-Oct-2003, 10:59 AM
#14
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
Oh, and for cams and cam gears.... there are many to choose from. Leitner has a line of cams, and then there are the classics, like CTR cams, Comp Cams, Gude, Bullfrog (by Gude), Skunk 2, Toda, JUN, and the list goes on. What you choose depends on your ultimate goal, which ultimately depends on your budget.
Cam gears... I'd do the Leitner set, though there are others to choose from... Skunk2, TODA, etc...
Spray and header can work together... but spray would also ask for a pump and injectors.
W/O spray, with the items I listed... assuming you had a couple of tuning days on a wideband dyno, slicks, cool weather, good driver, and proper chassis tuning (Z10 rods or Leitner equivalent), I'd say you would run a 14.8-14.9 but that's quite optimistic. In reality you'd prolly run a 15.2 or so.
Really you'd only shave a couple of tenths, but your trap MPH would improve drastically, prolly picking up about 5-8 MPH.
Oh, and for cams and cam gears.... there are many to choose from. Leitner has a line of cams, and then there are the classics, like CTR cams, Comp Cams, Gude, Bullfrog (by Gude), Skunk 2, Toda, JUN, and the list goes on. What you choose depends on your ultimate goal, which ultimately depends on your budget.
Cam gears... I'd do the Leitner set, though there are others to choose from... Skunk2, TODA, etc...
Spray and header can work together... but spray would also ask for a pump and injectors.
W/O spray, with the items I listed... assuming you had a couple of tuning days on a wideband dyno, slicks, cool weather, good driver, and proper chassis tuning (Z10 rods or Leitner equivalent), I'd say you would run a 14.8-14.9 but that's quite optimistic. In reality you'd prolly run a 15.2 or so.
Really you'd only shave a couple of tenths, but your trap MPH would improve drastically, prolly picking up about 5-8 MPH.
I'd spend all that money and not even be running in the 13's ? WTF?
Is there anyway that I can run BETTER on the quarter mile ?
09-Oct-2003, 11:48 AM
#15
ONLY turbo/s.c. cars or 4th gen hatches with heavy breathing all motor B18 and B20s run 13s. You can't possibly hope to acheive a 13 second all motor 5th gen Si on ANY kind of budget. Turbo could get you there.
OK, well A' NATUREL, KSR, VIBRANT, ALTECH, those guys all run 4th gen platforms with race prepped H22As and hit low 12s, but those are NOT street cars... you have an interior and emissions equipment to lug around the track
OK, well A' NATUREL, KSR, VIBRANT, ALTECH, those guys all run 4th gen platforms with race prepped H22As and hit low 12s, but those are NOT street cars... you have an interior and emissions equipment to lug around the track
09-Oct-2003, 11:51 AM
#16
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so, what i'm reading here is.
There is no street driven civic that is remotely fast and can get fast for a daily driver. I should not attempt to make my civic faster because it cant. I should just go all show from now on ?
There is no street driven civic that is remotely fast and can get fast for a daily driver. I should not attempt to make my civic faster because it cant. I should just go all show from now on ?
09-Oct-2003, 12:09 PM
#17
whoa, hold on there... don't get it twisted
I said TURBO or S/C big displacement twin cams can do it easily...
it's just that a B16 in a loaded hatch won't do it ON A BUDGET!
You have other priorities for your car now... like tuning for better mileage
I really don't think you understand what it takes to run a 13 second quarter...
Do you realize, there are maybe.... MAYBE a dozen production cars in the world that run 13 second quarters, and they ALL cost over 100Gs (ummm, what a stock SRT4 run, anyone know??)
Bottom line is, Vipers, Z06, Lambos, Ferraris... that's the kinda cars that run 13s.
I said TURBO or S/C big displacement twin cams can do it easily...
it's just that a B16 in a loaded hatch won't do it ON A BUDGET!
You have other priorities for your car now... like tuning for better mileage
I really don't think you understand what it takes to run a 13 second quarter...
Do you realize, there are maybe.... MAYBE a dozen production cars in the world that run 13 second quarters, and they ALL cost over 100Gs (ummm, what a stock SRT4 run, anyone know??)
Bottom line is, Vipers, Z06, Lambos, Ferraris... that's the kinda cars that run 13s.
09-Oct-2003, 12:15 PM
#18
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
whoa, hold on there... don't get it twisted
I said TURBO or S/C big displacement twin cams can do it easily...
it's just that a B16 in a loaded hatch won't do it ON A BUDGET!
You have other priorities for your car now... like tuning for better mileage
I really don't think you understand what it takes to run a 13 second quarter...
Do you realize, there are maybe.... MAYBE a dozen production cars in the world that run 13 second quarters, and they ALL cost over 100Gs (ummm, what a stock SRT4 run, anyone know??)
Bottom line is, Vipers, Z06, Lambos, Ferraris... that's the kinda cars that run 13s.
whoa, hold on there... don't get it twisted
I said TURBO or S/C big displacement twin cams can do it easily...
it's just that a B16 in a loaded hatch won't do it ON A BUDGET!
You have other priorities for your car now... like tuning for better mileage
I really don't think you understand what it takes to run a 13 second quarter...
Do you realize, there are maybe.... MAYBE a dozen production cars in the world that run 13 second quarters, and they ALL cost over 100Gs (ummm, what a stock SRT4 run, anyone know??)
Bottom line is, Vipers, Z06, Lambos, Ferraris... that's the kinda cars that run 13s.
But still, going all motor on my car wont do **** as you are saying. running low 15's on a b16 hatch with all motor ? I think I could run that with a stock b16 ? So what is the point in going all motor ?
09-Oct-2003, 12:31 PM
#19
stock B16 swaps run mid-high 15s. Right now, in your state of tune, you are running prolly low 16s. I could prolly kill you in my Saturn wagon, no joke
Anyways, enough **** talkin' yes, I'm telling you at most you'll shave a few tenths off your time, and significantly bump your MPH trap speed. Point of going all motor is longevity and reliability. but a properly built engine will do that regardless. So really, it's for pride I guess... or simply to stay in a certain class of racing. Some ppl just LOVE the VTEC and the high rpm is music to their ears. Yes, there is a charm about it.... lotsa charm, but no torque LOL
Anyways, enough **** talkin'
yes, I'm telling you at most you'll shave a few tenths off your time, and significantly bump your MPH trap speed. Point of going all motor is longevity and reliability. but a properly built engine will do that regardless. So really, it's for pride I guess... or simply to stay in a certain class of racing. Some ppl just LOVE the VTEC and the high rpm is music to their ears. Yes, there is a charm about it.... lotsa charm, but no torque LOL
