B series block...which is a good one to use?
#1
B series block...which is a good one to use?
Hi,
I'm new to the honda scene but i do know quite a bit and im curious to know ppls opinions so i can finish my project.
To start, I own a 2000 Civic SiR and as everyone knows, its quite fat. Its my everyday driver but money is kinda tight so you all know.
Here is what i have to start. I have a head but am looking for a block and this is where your opinions are needed.
Head consists of:
B16 head ported w/ CTR valvetrain, valves and 3 angle valve job
Skunk 2 Stage 1 cams and Skunk 2 cam gears
ITR intake mani
(gonna bore out TB when project getting completed)
gonna get ARP head studs
also gonna get H22 injectors and Walbro pump
and gonna get chipped OBD1 ECU
now question is which block should i get and w/ each block, where should i redline to be safe (b4 i dyno tune):
B18C
B18B
B20
wut redline should i put for these (and i will tune VTEC, fuel and cam gears on the dyno)
remember, my car is quite heavy so that is y i may look towards the LS or B20 and they r cheaper as well but i heard the B20's sleaves r weak and crack
also does the LS motor provide a good amount of torque compared to the B18C and if i use the LS can i use P30 pistons to raise compression along w/ Mugen Head Gasket?
i know it was a lengthy read but you help would be greatly appreciated
Thanx
I'm new to the honda scene but i do know quite a bit and im curious to know ppls opinions so i can finish my project.
To start, I own a 2000 Civic SiR and as everyone knows, its quite fat. Its my everyday driver but money is kinda tight so you all know.
Here is what i have to start. I have a head but am looking for a block and this is where your opinions are needed.
Head consists of:
B16 head ported w/ CTR valvetrain, valves and 3 angle valve job
Skunk 2 Stage 1 cams and Skunk 2 cam gears
ITR intake mani
(gonna bore out TB when project getting completed)
gonna get ARP head studs
also gonna get H22 injectors and Walbro pump
and gonna get chipped OBD1 ECU
now question is which block should i get and w/ each block, where should i redline to be safe (b4 i dyno tune):
B18C
B18B
B20
wut redline should i put for these (and i will tune VTEC, fuel and cam gears on the dyno)
remember, my car is quite heavy so that is y i may look towards the LS or B20 and they r cheaper as well but i heard the B20's sleaves r weak and crack
also does the LS motor provide a good amount of torque compared to the B18C and if i use the LS can i use P30 pistons to raise compression along w/ Mugen Head Gasket?
i know it was a lengthy read but you help would be greatly appreciated
Thanx
#2
b20s aren't weak, but to significantly raise the CR and how high it revs it gets expensive.
Any one of those engines make a good block to put your head on.
I like the b20 b/c they're torque monsters. But if you wanna rev high the b18c wins hands down.
Any one of those engines make a good block to put your head on.
I like the b20 b/c they're torque monsters. But if you wanna rev high the b18c wins hands down.
#5
a good everyday driver but when i need to pull hard, it will..i am pointing towards teh b20 mainly cuz of the torque cuz how heavy an SiR is its gonna need it
now w/ the b20, w/ stock internals, hat would a safe redline be?...ive heard round 7,500
and if i put new pistons and eagle rods, wut would you suggest?
now w/ the b20, w/ stock internals, hat would a safe redline be?...ive heard round 7,500
and if i put new pistons and eagle rods, wut would you suggest?
#6
LS - ARP rod bolts, new bearings, vtec water pump, shot peen rods, resize big end of rod, PR3 or P30 pistons would be good
B20 I would do the same but u would need to look at forged pistons or RS Machine ITR Spec B20 pistons.
B20 I would do the same but u would need to look at forged pistons or RS Machine ITR Spec B20 pistons.
#7
the ls/vtec would be the cheapest of them all. LS internals and p30 pistons will give you about 12:1 c/r and about 190whp. It will also rev higher than the b20. The cr/vtec gives you much more displacement but will also cost you more money. The block itself is more expensive then the LS block. You also have to have aftermarket pistons to acheive the same c/r. The b20 offers much more torque and probably more hp. So the decision is up to you. How much money are you willing to spend? what are you power goals?
#8
just buy a b20z for around 800 and slap your head on it...keep the revs to 7800-8000 with a good tune and youll be inteh 200 whp league, with some arp head studs, a 2 layer head gasket cometic and your good...the z has higher compression pistions i think....like a9 6 1 and with the thiner head gasket u raise compression by .3 and thats the cheapest best way
#10
Originally posted by nadir
just buy a b20z for around 800 and slap your head on it...keep the revs to 7800-8000 with a good tune and youll be inteh 200 whp league, with some arp head studs, a 2 layer head gasket cometic and your good...the z has higher compression pistions i think....like a9 6 1 and with the thiner head gasket u raise compression by .3 and thats the cheapest best way
just buy a b20z for around 800 and slap your head on it...keep the revs to 7800-8000 with a good tune and youll be inteh 200 whp league, with some arp head studs, a 2 layer head gasket cometic and your good...the z has higher compression pistions i think....like a9 6 1 and with the thiner head gasket u raise compression by .3 and thats the cheapest best way
#14
i like the responsiveness of N/A
yes i love boost but dealing w/ it once...especially in a Supra...its just problems and lots more $$$$$ waiting to happen...and if somethin happens to the car, havin a turbo in a stock non-turbo car isnt fun w/ insurance
yes i love boost but dealing w/ it once...especially in a Supra...its just problems and lots more $$$$$ waiting to happen...and if somethin happens to the car, havin a turbo in a stock non-turbo car isnt fun w/ insurance
#15
if you're gonna build the block i would go with the B20.
here's a set of H22 injectors for sale...
http://www.torontocivics.com/tccforu...hreadid=128155
here's a set of H22 injectors for sale...
http://www.torontocivics.com/tccforu...hreadid=128155
#17
Originally posted by nadir
just buy a b20z for around 800 and slap your head on it...keep the revs to 7800-8000 with a good tune and youll be inteh 200 whp league, with some arp head studs, a 2 layer head gasket cometic and your good...the z has higher compression pistions i think....like a9 6 1 and with the thiner head gasket u raise compression by .3 and thats the cheapest best way
just buy a b20z for around 800 and slap your head on it...keep the revs to 7800-8000 with a good tune and youll be inteh 200 whp league, with some arp head studs, a 2 layer head gasket cometic and your good...the z has higher compression pistions i think....like a9 6 1 and with the thiner head gasket u raise compression by .3 and thats the cheapest best way
#18
b20 isnt gonna give you more torque than a b18c sleeved to 84mm. that is crap and people who think that dont have a clue. its not even 2 mm difference in stroke. i had 160 wheel torque with my b18c 84mm set up. thats 184hp to the crank, is that a "torque monster"? uh, yes. plus the b18c is made for vtec so you dont need all the conversion crap AND yes the block IS better then the b20 piece of junk. oh, what about the main girdle and the oil injectors in the b18c??? come on guys, the b20 conversion is nothing but a poor mans vtec engine. if you can afford it go b18c, if not save your pennies till you can.
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
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Posts: 163
and with the b18c sleeved to 2L, you have a better/smoother crank and can rev past 8000rpm worryfree - where vtec likes to be. How long do you think the b20 will handle 8000rpm for.
Sometimes i wish I wasn't selling my 85mm sleeved b18c5 block... whoever saves their pennies first, wins.
Sometimes i wish I wasn't selling my 85mm sleeved b18c5 block... whoever saves their pennies first, wins.