ATTN: Mr. Leitner
 

you say u can do the washer trick on the front of the car to correct camber instead of using a camber kit?

please explain this...I cant picture it

agreed because if thats the case I will throw some H & R race springs in my ride!

use the washers where you bolt the a arm to the car. the washers go on the wheelwell side, its not like you can move it inches but it will improve the neg camber a bit. hot roding baby...

I think that might work with EG/DC chassis where the a-arm bolts vertically. For EK, I can't see how that would work?

i dont even see how that would really move the control arm outwards to correct camber

i think its a load of bs, youll never have right allignment

there is no way that can affect camber. That does not affect the tilt what soever..

i never said it was perfect, yes it works for ef eg cars..but hell if chris v2 and trigga say it wont work then it must be law...

im not saying it wont work im telling you it wont work why go through all the trouble with those 2cent washers and still dont have perfect allignment why not just pay the 40 bucks per tire and get perfect camber.

i just think i mean i know using washers on your camber is just a hack job. do it right do it once. done.

then explain how it affects camber, cause I cant picture it

or atleast take a picture of how u washered your car.

...

Guys, please keep discussion civilized. There is no need to call "bs" because you don't understand how it works. You don't call your teacher "bs" when he told you 1 + 1 = 2.

Seeing how the A-arm bolts get bolted vertically, when you add washer in between the chassis and A-arm, I think you are dropping the bolting location further down, which somehow pulls the upper ball joint up and closer in, which, will add a little bit of positive camber, but may not be whole lot.

http://agent087.homestead.com/files/...7-3757_IMG.JPG

Try this experiment: get two sticks and connect the two ends with a pin, hold one of the stick end and move it down. This will bring the other stick up and closer in.

"yes it works for ef eg"

you said it works, when u say it works ur sopose to mean it works 100 percents. not say it works abit. its like someone buying a tranny off me and they ask if it works and i say it works a bit is that someone going to buy the tranny of me? Just like how im saying its a load of _ _ _ _ it does not work.

And im pretty sure if my shop teacher told me to put washers on my suspension id tell him its bs. id do it right and do it once.

It is a trick, like many things in life, it is one of the solutions to a problem/task. It may not be the ultimate solution, but it will work to a certain extend, given the bolts and washers are made with higher grade tolerance, if we want to be technical about it.

"Do it right", in a world of choices, means you get the end result you want with the least chances of failure. Steve's trick is old school, and he is kind enough to share his knowledge with the rest of us. He also corrected it earlier saying that it would work for EF/EG chassis so I don't see the point of adding any comments after that as to it works 100% or not, as it is chassis limited to begin with.

If you can't accept a suggestion, please move on to another one. We are here to share knowledge and help one another. Please, be considerate.

Ok i would like to add that i do not support this "choice" or "old school trick" as a soultion to slove a camber or allignment issue.

the reason that people refer to this a old school trick because its way out of date and its no longer considered a soultion to camber and alligment issues.

I will be kind enough to share my knowledge that pay the 40 bucks per tire and get a proper camber kit instead of jerry rigging it.

do it right?....like using an adjustable fuel pressure regulator without a fuel pressure gauge (after being told not to) and wondering why it made less power on the dyno?!?!?!

I can totally see why this washer trick would work (to an extent).

i just jacked the baby up, through on a pressure gauge not to long after everything is MINT!.

the only thing that not MINT is using washers for your camber.

calm down plzbeleiveit....no one said you have to do this washer trick.

I'm not sure why you would consider this old school. Last time I checked, front and rear camber kits still cost a fair chunk of change; to the tune of 400+ dollars for front and rear. For the majority of people who drive Civics, this represent a fair bit of money. In real terms, for the average kid working at McD's this is 2/3'rds of a paycheck. If I was in this situation and the choice was to choose between 40 bucks and 400, I'd choose the 40 dollar option. Bang for the buck is what counts. There are plenty of people who have used the washer trick (predominately on the rear I'll admit) and have no issues. I do not see why the front is so different. Furthermore, the slight effect that this mod gives should be sufficient considering that when lowered, more camber occurs in the rear. This makes Steve's advice that much more useful.

The behavior displayed in this thread is atrocious. Especially more so considering who Leitner is and what he has done.