coreyhayman

im slowly piecing together and ordering parts for my d. Im going to be building a d16z6 bottom with a y8 head for boost, now when i say built i dont mean just rods, pistons etc like most ppl claim and say oh its "built". Below is a list of parts ill be using, i know a few guys on there know there **** like zeeman etc so feel free to leave some input or suggest something better to use.


-eagle h-beam rods -already have
-wiseco pistons -Awaiting arrival
-scat crank
-crower stage 2 cam -ordered this morning
-crower titanium retainers
-crower valve springs
-skunk 2 intake manifold
-cometic head gasket
-arp hardware
-aem cam gear -already have
-will be sent out to be sleeved by golden eagle
-acl bearings throughout

i want to see numbers of 420whp+ out of this motor which i know is going to take alot of boost on a small d, 25+psi etc. I havent got to the turbo kit or managment yet but this is an area i wont be cheaping out on either. Does this set up sound good for seeing over 400whp reliably with a GOOD tune.

Nova_Dust

I know jack about turbo, but I know this engine will haul ***.

Nice!

What about getting the engine sleeved at Benson

http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/raceengines.htm

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=565375

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

setup that savage, I'd consider a Moroso oil pump and pan

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?CatCode=13939

coreyhayman

^ im going to def look into that, thats kinda something i never considered was my oiling needs, thanks.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

I think you have everything else pretty well covered engine-wise. just one bit of criticism (well not really, just food for thought) .... before you send your block out for sleeving....

I know you come from a RWD background with live axles and four on the floor type of thing. FWD cars are way different in the application of power. First of all, the D-series tranny will prolly blow right up if you apply 400+ hp through it like you would on a RWD platform. You'll shatter gears and crack cases. For performance parts you'll have to consider gear speed's services, but the parts selection will be thin for the SOHC tranny.

Secondly, we apply power through constant velocity joints rather than .... like 32 spline solid moroso axles and currie 9". So FWD cars have an inherent weak point there also. You can get custom axles, but it'll cost you BIG.

Lastly, we transfer power away from our drive wheels when we accelerate, so an equivalent RWD car would always kick our ***.

In other words, drag racing a FWD car is just silly from a physics point of view.

What I'm saying is don't dump all this money into it without knowing what you'll be facing. You'd be better off to build a track star that will go, stop, and turn on a dime... keep power levels under 300 whp so you can actually USE that power, and the thousands of dollars saved on the engine, spend it on brakes and suspension. I think you'll have a lot more fun than towing the car home every weekend with half the tranny case hanging out.

coreyhayman

^ i definatly understand all those points and know putting that much power to the ground in a fwd car will be tough. I also will need to look into doing something about the tranny because i know it will explode and ill be changing it like every month, lol..

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

contact these ppl

http://gearspeedinc.com/products.htm

RDub99

iTrader: (1)

are you putting the motor together yourself?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

run a nice loose bearing clearance (not too loose) and balance the rotating assembly, crank, crank pulley, flywheel, pressure plate, rods, pistons. And make sure to run the manufacturers specified piston ring gap. A ring filer will make ur life so easy when it comes to this.
If you're using ACLs you might want to have ur machinist set ur clearnace, on a high whp boosted engine you wanna have the clearances dead on, not just within spec.
Get that beast tuned right when you first start her up.
And get a real good clutch and some sticky tires

coreyhayman

thanks guys, and no i wont be building the motor myself, i can build engines but i want this done by a professional for a little pirce of mind, and once its in and i decide on the turbo kit, managment etc itll be towed to a tuner before its even started.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

a good tuner will come to you in this situation....lol....

EK20A2

I would seriously consider over-sized valves and a good port and polish. You'll need it to flow that much air into the engine through the D head.

You'll definitly need and LSD to have anything resembling traction with that much power.

No direct expierence with D-series cranks but I know the stock B-series cranks can hold a lot of power. Look more in how much power they can hold so you can save the money for other parts.

I hope that stage 2 cam you ordered is geared towards a turbo'ed motor. Naturally aspired high performance cams don't work as well with turbo'ed motors.

IMO, dry sump oiling system has its advantages, but is not a necessity for you. A new OEM oil pump will be just fine.

If you're anything like my friends then there isn't much point in me saying this but I'm going to say it anyways; you won't be able to use 420+ whp on the street. Anything more than 250 will just cause constant wheel-spin.

All that aside, I think you've picked a good set-up to handle a lot of power in a fairly reliable package. Good tuning with a stand-alone engine managment system is obviously a necessity.

89SIHATCH?

well i cant wait to see this setup up done.
i have been a vehicle running 28 psi and god damn was it good.(90 EF sedan semi built dohc ZC)

i have heard of people knifing the cranks, dunno if it is good for turbo applications or N/A but it is another thing to look into and research.

good luck with the build man

dingus888

I would say 350- 400 whp stock sleeves good port and polish ( d heads flow ****ty) 57 trim t3/t4 or some kind

I would not expect pump on 25 plus psi

aim abit lower 320-350 whp on tuner toys rods viatara pistons stock sleeves pump gas all day long and a good few thousand less than your current build


all in all you should get that head ported

imported_SilverSleeper

Methanol Injection will allow you to run high boost pressures on pump.

But at that power level good luck with traction man. 205 wont cut it, perhaps try to see if you can squeeze a 225 in there, if not wider...

coreyhayman

yeah i was looking into methanol injection kits etc, there fairly cheap, i know the stock d crank can handle alot of power i just dont want any weak links in my set up, i might look further into it as the forged crank is big $$$ and maybe i can get away without it. I know on the streets getting 400+whp in a fwd car will be a ***** to try and get to hook but im willing to deal with that.

imported_plzbeleiveit

One thing to add is when you do your setup keep it on the downlow.

imported_SilverSleeper

I suggest looking into Methanol or Water Injection as a protection to all this money your putting into it. A good kit will not be a weak link but an addded level of protection. Not only will AI reduce intake temperature but will provide a measure of increased dentonation resistance to the engine. This is especially important when running very high boost levels. Gran National guys have been doing this for years. RX-7 guys whose cars have been plauged with denotation problems have found a solution in AI.

chris_si98

lol...

oh man

coreyhayman

^ what dont think seeing numbers of 400whp out of a d is possible? its been done many times with far less work. I know some are thinking why dump all this money into a d when i could do this to a b etc,etc....i wanna be a little different and shock everybody when im at the track etc and pop my hood and theres just a little d hiding under the hood.