All Motor Engine...help
07-May-2003, 12:29 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by -TAL-
just curious, say you went with an NA setup, then you later on decided you wanted to run some Boost and Spray, would you make more horsepower because your engine is allready pretty built up?
just curious, say you went with an NA setup, then you later on decided you wanted to run some Boost and Spray, would you make more horsepower because your engine is allready pretty built up?
a good N/A setup requires high compression pistons - 11.0:1 range
you will also need aggressive cams and extensive head work.
high compression and boost do mix well, you will make amazing power but to get it running right and tuned properly will require a standalone ($1500++) and alot of dyno time. if this is going on a daily driver, constant changes in climate conditions can cause boost spikes. when running boost on a high compression motor the smallest spike in boost can land your motor into a machine shop in need of a rebuild. generally peopel go with low compression when boosting. it just makes things so much easier. if you want more power, crank up the boost and re-tune!
aggressive cams and boost do not mix well. you want mild cams with boost. Crower makes some really good turbo cams for b-series engines.. alot of guys running VTEC motors actually disable VTEC when they run large amounts of boost -15psi +. the VTEC lobes make tuning difficult.. go with a non-VTEC motor if you decide on turbo. have the bottom end built up nice and oyu shoudl be good to go. or find a blown b16a and build that up (go big bore - boost loves displacement), run it with VTEC disabled. there is a crazy lebanese dude
in town who's doing up one right now.. the water jackets are completley cemented around the sleeves.. no chance of cylinder distortion at all...imagine revving to AND still making power at 9k rpm on a boosted honda (30psi+) weighing 2,000 lbs. 
07-May-2003, 12:41 AM
#12
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: 43° 41' N 79° 38' W
Posts: 9,277
Originally posted by Jugglez
you can have both. all it takes is knowledge and money.
you can have both. all it takes is knowledge and money.
The knowledge part is easy with the great advice we find around here.
Just remember ..
Ain't no half steppin...
07-May-2003, 12:42 AM
#13
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,461
Originally posted by Jugglez
the water jackets are completley cemented around the sleeves.. no chance of cylinder distortion at all...imagine revving to AND still making power at 9k rpm on a boosted honda (30psi+) weighing 2,000 lbs.
the water jackets are completley cemented around the sleeves.. no chance of cylinder distortion at all...imagine revving to AND still making power at 9k rpm on a boosted honda (30psi+) weighing 2,000 lbs.
can someone define 'built up the bottom end'... or even 'build up an engine'. what kinds of parts would i change? (cams/retainer springs/reinforced sleeves/etc/etc)
I'd love to pickup an extra engine, and build her up.
07-May-2003, 08:40 AM
#15
sam, you are looking at replacing internals and bracing the block. The Honda blocks, for ease of production and minimal machining come out of the factory in an open deck casting, which makes a very nice block (as we have all evidenced 
) but then you apply very high cylinder pressures to it, it tends to distort. This is why drag racers and crazy lebanese dudes 
(BTW, I don't know who this is??) cement the block. Otherwise, if you still want water jackets in your block (to cool your engine silly ) you wanna do something else... Things like mosterous Darton sleeves, girdles, and block guards. Golden Eagle makes good ones too, as I'm sure do a lot of other places. Sleeves are used to increase displacement (by increasing bore) without thinning out the space between two cylinders too much, else *crack* your block will split. Now that your block is strong, you need a good crank to swing the action... if you rev high, your pistons are looking at (I read this somewhere YEARS ago... I could be wrong) 17,000Gs (G as in G-force, not a gangsta 
) So you need a crank that won't snap itself in half from fatigue. Also, you can knife-edge it and micropolish the journals. Knife-edging is trying to minimize the loss of power from your crank counterweights beating into the oil. Oh, also gotta make sure your whole assembly is nicely balanced. Then, you are looking at some ARP studs and cap bolts. They allow some stretch... little bit. Then your rods, replace your wimpy rods with something that won't allow too much stretch and won't snap like a toothpick when a cyl detonates, or won't bend from the sheer pressures in the cylinder. Then, you need some pistons. 3 types.... dome, dish, and flat. For turbo, you're prolly looking at no more than 9:1 compression or even that's a bit high for a lot of boost. You want a piston that will promote a good even distribution of mixture and a nice even flame. Something not prone to detonation. You can have the pistons coated to reduce friction and to withstand higher heat. Then... some rings to contain the fury. There are three rings, compression, oil, and the third slips my mind. Then a nice metal head gasket (copper is good), and it's on to the head. That's another post though. The key to a good build, whether you are using the finest of the fine parts, or stock parts machined to spec (called blueprinting), is tolerences. Plasti-gauge is your best friend now. Know it, feel it, learn it. Plasti-gauge is the isht! Well, for home builders anyways, I don't know what the pros use. You can't have enough gauges and meters when assembling an engine...
) but then you apply very high cylinder pressures to it, it tends to distort. This is why drag racers and crazy lebanese dudes (BTW, I don't know who this is??) cement the block. Otherwise, if you still want water jackets in your block (to cool your engine silly ) you wanna do something else... Things like mosterous Darton sleeves, girdles, and block guards. Golden Eagle makes good ones too, as I'm sure do a lot of other places. Sleeves are used to increase displacement (by increasing bore) without thinning out the space between two cylinders too much, else *crack* your block will split. Now that your block is strong, you need a good crank to swing the action... if you rev high, your pistons are looking at (I read this somewhere YEARS ago... I could be wrong) 17,000Gs (G as in G-force, not a gangsta ) So you need a crank that won't snap itself in half from fatigue. Also, you can knife-edge it and micropolish the journals. Knife-edging is trying to minimize the loss of power from your crank counterweights beating into the oil. Oh, also gotta make sure your whole assembly is nicely balanced. Then, you are looking at some ARP studs and cap bolts. They allow some stretch... little bit. Then your rods, replace your wimpy rods with something that won't allow too much stretch and won't snap like a toothpick when a cyl detonates, or won't bend from the sheer pressures in the cylinder. Then, you need some pistons. 3 types.... dome, dish, and flat. For turbo, you're prolly looking at no more than 9:1 compression or even that's a bit high for a lot of boost. You want a piston that will promote a good even distribution of mixture and a nice even flame. Something not prone to detonation. You can have the pistons coated to reduce friction and to withstand higher heat. Then... some rings to contain the fury. There are three rings, compression, oil, and the third slips my mind. Then a nice metal head gasket (copper is good), and it's on to the head. That's another post though. The key to a good build, whether you are using the finest of the fine parts, or stock parts machined to spec (called blueprinting), is tolerences. Plasti-gauge is your best friend now. Know it, feel it, learn it. Plasti-gauge is the isht! Well, for home builders anyways, I don't know what the pros use. You can't have enough gauges and meters when assembling an engine...
07-May-2003, 10:34 AM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: 43° 41' N 79° 38' W
Posts: 9,277
Originally posted by howie
Sheesh, all motor is going to be a pain on my wallet, hehe. I don't think I will be going turbo or spray, and yes this will be my daily driver...and to beat ricers, hehe.
Sheesh, all motor is going to be a pain on my wallet, hehe. I don't think I will be going turbo or spray, and yes this will be my daily driver...and to beat ricers, hehe.
Quite incredible to witness.
Will totally devastate most wallets..
07-May-2003, 03:11 PM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,461
Damn you Bruno... that was a wicked information post... You're the best! Anyone got links to like proper exploded views of internals? You know... of the head seperate from the block etc etc... Damn.. serious cash to build up NA
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