imported_magicguy

who is willing to fix my Air/Fuel Gauge. it stays at Rich all the time, someone said it might be the O2 toasted or something, b4 the swap, it worked fine, after swap, it doesn't work anymore. I have a custom ECU P28 chipped, the air/fuel have adjusted to the right amount, just wondering who could help me to fix this problem!:P

imported_weiRtech

i had a similar problem, it was my o2 sensor.

chris_si98

maybe I'm wrong about this but if the o2 is bad, wouldn't the CEL come on?

imported_weiRtech

yep.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

i've had a bad o2 sensor not cause a CEL to come on before.
But generally speaking you should get a CEL if the o2 is bad.
Just to let you know, A/F guages aren't at all accurate. They read off a narrowband signal (0-1 volts). And usually with chipped ecus the car runs very rich, especially at idle, unless its a custom program made with the use of a wideband o2. But most of the generic (skunk2, mugen, spoon, vision) programs i've ever used have air/fuel ratios around 12-13:1 at idle on my PLX M300 wideband...which is incredibly rich. You should be idling around 14.7-15:1.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

Are you experiencing any problems with the way the car runs...specifically at idle? Does it bog, stutter or misfire? Do you have a searching idle, meaning idling not at a steady rpm, but jumping around?

imported_FlatBlack

That is true for a lot of generic chips, but i know in this case that the problem could be the gauge or a wiring issue, but i think it is most likely the O2 sensor.

Magicguy came to us. TEKNOTIK because his engine was running horribly after the swap (that had been done elsewhere), i tracked it down to the wiring on his V-AFC, the map sensor wire had come undone which was tricking the ECU into thinking it was always at full load, IE wide open throttle. Basically it was dumping "full throttle" amounts of fuel all the time. So it is very possible that the O2 is toast cuz of that, but i cant rule out that it could be wiring or the gauge it self.

In this case I know that is is not the "tune" because we created a created a custom street tuned chip for his his setup that idled perfectly @ 14.7 and had optimal a/f ratios under load in forth gear. I used our Innovate LM1 Wide Band O2 with Crome Pro Dealer ver. and our custom ECU that i use for all of our tuning that has Realtime programming, datalogging, and the WBO2 all hard wired, which i connect to a loptop to tune and datalog in realtime.

Magicguy, if you like you can come to the shop will take a look at the problem for you to see if we can figure it out.

Nick.
Teknotik Tuner.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

Nick:
Do you use an Ostrich for RTP? Or a DIY RTP board?

I would agree that having the MAP signal wire disconnected from the ECU could potentially foul an o2 sensor b/c of how nasty rich the car runs without the MAP or a faulty MAP. And like i've said, i've experienced bad o2 sensors without any CEL.
It's good to see people getting custom tunes opposed to generic chips. I hear good things about your work NickB.

imported_FlatBlack

Thanks Zeeman,

For RTP, I actually have the ostirch, romulator, and the DIY RTP board and have found the romulator works better. I keep the ostrich as a back up unit.

I always try and educate our customers about the advanatges and value of a custom dyno tune over the genaric chips out there. Alot of the time a stock program will out preform those chips depending on what mods they have.

Heres an example of an H22 i tuned that had a generic chip vs. a custom tune on the dyno.



Its good to see someone contributing useful tuning information to the forum, i just wish i could contribute more.

Magic guy, sorry to have hijacked your thread. Deffinatly swing by the shop and i'll check out your problem.

Nick.

imported_magicguy

currently I'm out of Toronto, thats why I couldn't come and meet you these days, the stall problem is still happening, I will be back next Wednesday and give u a visit again to see if you have any advice or clue...I doubt it is the ECU problem? but I also don't what others might cause this due to a limited knowledge.

let say, my O2 is toasted, does it affect the car stall when I tried to start my car? Its pure jokes now, last time i was in a parking lot "underground". pretty warm I suppose, the car stalled three times when I tried to start the engine, when the fouth time I had to hold the gas at a certain RPM to prevent it stall.. just wondering...O2 sensor might affect it?

heres a clip of showing how hard I tried to start my engine two days ago after 4 times of stalled. BTW.. thanks again Nick for the tunning, it pulls hard enough now and really really smooth and stable. Just except for the mysteries stall issue

how does it stall? =
whenever I start my car...the RPM goes up and it drops downward right away and the car stall

and keep this in mind, this clip is after 4 times of stall and i had to slightly hold the gas in the beginning..lol

http://calvin0428.tripod.com/stall.mpg

if the clip doesn't play after you clicked
try to right click + save as

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

is it just me or does it sound like your car is running real rough?
Does it run rough? Or do you just have lumpy cams?

imported_magicguy

they are just stock TypeR cames in a B18C5
it doesn't run rough at all, it runs really smooth and strong
its just everytime i start my car. it might stall or idling constantly jumping around, but after i warmed my car or the rpm has stabled. the rpm will stay at around 800-1000. which i consider to be normal

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

oh ok. I guess its just the way it sounds on that video.
So does the car have a hard time starting all of the time? or only when its been sitting for a while and is cold?

imported_magicguy

most of the time its been sitting for a while and is cold
but then last time i was just in a parklot which is underground, parked for 30 mins after a 1 hour long drive, and i stalled 4 times before i could actually start the car

imported_magicguy

no one? lol

imported_FlatBlack

Its hard to say without actually seeing it for myself.

It could be all kinds of things causing that problem, unfortuantly having you try and explain the problem really isnt enough. If i was to see the car in person, there are so many more variables i could pay attention to and hopefully figure it out.

If you come by the shop, i can check it out for you tho.

imported_magicguy

something weird happened today
lol
basically, I went to one of the Esso gas station to get a car wash, as some of you guys might know that the washing machine provide a water blast on the bottom of you car when you first enter. So, this is what happened, after I got a bottom blast. the air/fuel gauge moved, it seems like after cooling down some spot on the bottom by blasting with cool water. Air/Fuel gauge will work. any clue people? just curious, anyways. Nick, I'll come visit you sometime this week this week wed or something. lol..

imported_SirII

OBDII to OBDI conversion?
I think your hard starting/stalling is caused by not having the computer bump the idle on a cold start. OBDII cars are computer controlled as OBDI is mechanically controlled by a FITV. On a cold day when you start your car idle drops to about 500rpm and then slowly rises up to about 1500? If so that's cause the car is running really rich cause it's a cold start and nothing is bumping up the idle. I have same problem. But mine is OBDI car running OBDII t/b which doesn't have a FITV. Another friend of mine has OBDII sir converted to OBDI ecu and has same problem as you. Just gotta let the car warm up for a bit before driving it.