imported_dr.drew1987

wanted to pick up a set of lowering springs, is that all ill need to install the drop it down a bit?

cibs

depends on how low you wanna go.

my advice is simple - don't cheap out.

that is all.

imported_dr.drew1987

i have brand new springs on my civic and the thing is oddly too high, like 3 inch between the tire and body, id like to eliminate that space.

imported_ludesrv

Brand new springs don't mean they are lowering. Infact if you get 92-95 springs they will raise it haha.

Honestly, best bang for your buck, get H&R race springs, or Neuspeed (same company) race springs. I have them on my 90 Cx, and trust me, it's a NICE drop with an awesome ride. Very stiff, but I have KYB struts to back it up.

imported_dr.drew1987

thanks that sounds like a good way to go.

imported_janz3n

its always a good thing to replace your struts/shocks with new aftermarket ones when you lower your car. but some people say it doesnt matter and some say it does. i dont know what is true.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

it totally matters, and it makes the most sense value-wise to buy coilovers. i think the omnipower ones are good for the price! cheaper than buying shocks and springs separately in some cases.

Nova_Dust

You might as well go with height adjustable coilover, at least the shocks are valved for the drop properly and there is one less thing to worry about, i.e. premature shock failure.

Plus, swapping out OEM spring/shock assembly is easier with an aftermarket coilover than to take the springs out and reinstall them. Less tools needed, and less time. But do an alignment afterward regardless.

imported_alwaysoverkill

Always replace shocks when lowering if at all possible and don't forget the alignment. Also as stated, but quality components such as H&R, Eibach, Tein, etc.

Coilovers can be good depending on the application, but i'd pony up a few extra bucks to buy better then Omni personally

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

Nova, that's a misconception... I used to think the same as you but in working on cars while having my brain working, I realized on Hondas you don't do an alignment after you swap springs or shocks.

While I do recommend an alignment in THIS particular case cuz it's an old *** car... it's not because of a new suspension.

Think... what is adjustable on a 4th - 6th gen Civic? Toe. Toe is controlled by the position of the rack and the tie rod ends, neither of which you're gonna touch. The caster and camber cannot be adjusted unless you get a camber kit. Therefore not everyone needs an alignment after susp work. The way it's designed, the suspension will always go back to it's previous alignment geometry.

The only times an alignment is absolutely crucial, is after you remove the rack, after you do tie rods, after you do bushings or have the lower control arms off... or after you have the trailing arms off (trailing arms control rear toe). In fact you could remove the entire front knuckle assembly, and you wouldn't need an alignment after cuz the assembly is located by the upper and lower ball joints and tie rod... and as long as you don't touch those, the knuckle will fall right back into place where it needs to be.