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Adding a vtec in a B20 motor.

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Old 27-Sep-2005, 06:08 PM
  #21  
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Originally posted by ERTW


what about the "secret vtec" on y7 engines that engages when you take it up to >6000RPM, release the clutch, rev it up, then engage the clutch back?!?!?!?!

lol i thought i was the only one who new about that!
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Old 27-Sep-2005, 06:30 PM
  #22  
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to answer the question u need a vtec head and yes u need to change the computer and u should change the pistons. there are alot of things that need to be done to make this possiable but it can and has been done.

now as per my spelling whats the diff? i cant spell big deal!!!!!!
come to me if u want to build a motor or u wanna go fast everone on here likes to think there fast. im know my car is quite fast and i know ther is faster but most guys on this site dont know squat and they pretend to.

thats all im trying to get at!!!! im sorry if i sound like a d*ck but i dont understand why people make comments when, they dont know anything about it!
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Old 27-Sep-2005, 07:06 PM
  #23  
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Originally posted by jdmcrx000
to answer the question u need a vtec head and yes u need to change the computer and u should change the pistons. there are alot of things that need to be done to make this possiable but it can and has been done.

now as per my spelling whats the diff? i cant spell big deal!!!!!!
come to me if u want to build a motor or u wanna go fast everone on here likes to think there fast. im know my car is quite fast and i know ther is faster but most guys on this site dont know squat and they pretend to.

thats all im trying to get at!!!! im sorry if i sound like a d*ck but i dont understand why people make comments when, they dont know anything about it!
Please enlighten all of us, even some of the smartest on here how to build this engine from top to bottom, since you seem to be the smartest *cough*.

I like how you say you need a Vtec head, and a new ECU (or chipped if your running a P28 already) and pistons..Gee wow that really sums it up. So now I guess the guy is gonna go grab any B series VTEC head, take off his, install this, throw in some new pistons and plug in the ECU and bam hes done. Yeah, way to go, you really helped him out alot.

I know there are alot of things that need to be done in order for this to be reliable, and make the power this combo is supposed to, but THIS HAS BEEN DISCUSSED MANY TIMES BEFORE!!! Thats why we were being sarcastic with our posts.

If you missed that: THIS HAS BEEN DISCUSSED MANY TIMES BEFORE!!!

If you missed that again

THIS HAS BEEN DISCUSSED MANY TIMES BEFORE!!!

Hope you got it now.

Question: Why regergitate very usefull and good info that has been posted in other threads before (this kind of question is not the 1st time it has been asked)

Answer: Regergiating does nothing, but screw up info and pass off diff versions of the truth when others try to explain whats going on.

In closing: I know your a n00b and somewhat new to the site, but next time don't throw rocks in a glass house
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Old 27-Sep-2005, 09:08 PM
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Originally posted by loudsubz
don't throw rocks in a glass house
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Old 27-Sep-2005, 09:36 PM
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NITROUS THAT BITCH!
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Old 27-Sep-2005, 11:00 PM
  #26  
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lol jdmcrx000, zeeman will eat you alive in engine knowledge, he is THE ENGINE GOD after all.
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Old 28-Sep-2005, 01:47 AM
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well changing the pistons isn't required. Just don't run an aggressive cam. The valve reliefs on the b20b/z pistons are small. And the b20b has a pretty low compression, even if you have a b20z it will still only yield about a 10:1 compression ratio. You can't use other b-series pistons, unlike the lsvtec, so it is necessary to use aftermarket pistons to get a CR higher than 10:1, but you can mill the head a bit to raise the CR up another full point to 11:1. But when you mill the head you really have to worry about clearances, i wouldn't even recommend trying that without claying the engine first.
And i would say as a minimum use a new b20 oil pump and a gsr water pump and timing belt. And if you are replacing the pistons no better time to throw in some ARP rod bolts. In my opinion ARP rod bolts are a must but if you don't plan on revving past 7500rpms then you'd be ok without.
Now if you do plan on revving past 7500 you should really balance the rotating assembly.
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Old 28-Sep-2005, 01:52 AM
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If you want to know about building a b20 VTEC motor, PM Scott - 93HBSi, he built his own!
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Old 28-Sep-2005, 01:56 AM
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yeah, i doubt that most of the people who have responded barely work on their own cars let alone build their own engine.
Its not as easy as it sounds you don't just add vtec. Machining of the head is necessary to fit the larger dowel pins (or the conversion pins) an external oil feed line to activate vtec is required and you will need to add a few wires for vtec.
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Old 28-Sep-2005, 08:22 AM
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Originally posted by zeeman
yeah, i doubt that most of the people who have responded barely work on their own cars
Spoken like a true enthusiast. Couldn't agree more.
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Old 28-Sep-2005, 12:55 PM
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Zeeman summed it up pretty good.
Also remember there is some machining needed to the head to relocate dowl pins, and plug up the internal vtec oil feed (replaced by feeding an external line).
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Old 28-Sep-2005, 05:26 PM
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its funny cause some of you guys know stuff but untill you have built one of these things you really dont have a clue. the magnatude of things you have to know and be aware of is way more complicated than honda tuning or turbo lead on. to build a good reliable engine that has power you need a shop. there are so many little things that need fine adjustments and machining that if you dont you will be forever going back and forth to one. the engine will be mocked up at least twice to make sure nothing hits anything else, it just goes on and on. building a stocker is one thing but if you are looking for power there are not many people who are any good.
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Old 28-Sep-2005, 08:23 PM
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I 100% agree with ^^^^. Leave it to the professionals. Why spend all of that money on those parts and machine work only to screw something up trying to save a few bucks doing some work yourself. Pay the extra cash and have a machine shop do the assembly, that way you will know it was done right. Like steve said there are so many clearances to check and procedures and little tricks that the pro's know that'll keep that $$$ high hp/tq engine running for a long time.
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Old 28-Sep-2005, 08:23 PM
  #34  
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Words of the wise.
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Old 28-Sep-2005, 08:44 PM
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Originally posted by LEITNER
its funny cause some of you guys know stuff but untill you have built one of these things you really dont have a clue. the magnatude of things you have to know and be aware of is way more complicated than honda tuning or turbo lead on. to build a good reliable engine that has power you need a shop. there are so many little things that need fine adjustments and machining that if you dont you will be forever going back and forth to one. the engine will be mocked up at least twice to make sure nothing hits anything else, it just goes on and on. building a stocker is one thing but if you are looking for power there are not many people who are any good.
That is why you are here

Id never do an engine myself, its not my field. Just as I don't expect a mechanic to be my real estate agent and sell my house (but hey they might have multiple careers )
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Old 28-Sep-2005, 09:52 PM
  #36  
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B20 VTEC = The best of both worlds.

Torque and VTEC.
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Old 29-Sep-2005, 07:20 AM
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you know i got 158 torque to the wheels with my 2.0 and it used a type r crank not the b20, so is torque really an issue? i woud start off with a gsr engine and go from there, the b20 or any ls/vtec for that matter is just not my idea of good but thats just me. the vtec b series blocks are just far superior in quality and strength they have a main girdle and oil injectors which again in my opinion are something you must have for these engines (yes you can add them to the b20 block but damn that gets expensive). another advantage is vtec is built into the block so you dont need all the conversion crap to make it work and that eliminates potential for problems.
damn i miss engines.
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Old 29-Sep-2005, 12:55 PM
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I run a B20B with an ITR head that was built by Paul at Splitfire. Don't build one yourself. The pistons needed to be notched to accept the valves, the oil pump needed to be upgraded, oil supply for vtec and squirters need to be added plus other things. Since the walls are also thin, an oil cooler isn't a bad idea either. The problem with the set up is rod to stroke. The b20 have a long stroke so piston speeds get pretty hairy at high revs and will break on you eventually. The benefit is bang for buck putting down more power and torque than an ITR for less than half the money. It's not a setup for someone inexperienced with these things though. They really need to be built right.
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Old 29-Sep-2005, 03:30 PM
  #39  
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Originally posted by zeeman
have a machine shop do the assembly, that way you will know it was done right.
Thats why i do my own assembly! to make sure it was done right!
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Old 29-Sep-2005, 04:19 PM
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Originally posted by czeto


Someone who mocks better get their spelling corrected....
Sense........
Jesus, I knew that someone was going to mention the whole "spelling/grammer" bullsihit, let it be, for *** sakes were not in school it's a car forums...

we get these all the times, just annoying as sihit
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