[AZN]MOoMOo

Wat's the difference between coilover and shocks??

PULOVR

coilover.....







shock/strut.......






Coliover installed on strut.......




Hows that for simple and to the point?

KS-R

Pictures speak a thousand words

[AZN]MOoMOo

thankz

PULOVR

no prob.

imported_94EG6HB

PULOVR works best with pictures...

Word's and letters confuse him...

[AZN]MOoMOo

when the car is too bouncy.......
is it the shock problem... or the coilover ... or just the spring???

[AZN]MOoMOo

tat's bouncy going over bumps and stuff..

PULOVR

[AZN]MOoMOo

so it's the shock problem rite..??

but would it be better if I get a better set of coilovers or springs??

imported_8FUN8CVC

if it's the shock problem, then you gotta get new shocks/struts.
you get coilovers if you wanna lower your car with adjustments or springs for a set height.....but do correct me if i'm wrong here.

PULOVR

I got a set of Tom's/R1's coilover for a friend with a LUDE.
He originally had koni yellows with H&R race springs.......he told me today, that his ride is WAY better now, than he had with his old setup.

He now has a much smoooooooother ride. (he went with a 2" drop on the coilovers)


Alot of people have been knocking the Tom's/R1's coils......saying they are crap.....make noise.....bouncy.

I can't help but wonder who did the install....or if they had the knowledge to do it right.

My friend got them installed at a speed shop.......went very quickly/smoothly, and he is VERY happy with the ride he has now.


So to all the people that knock the Tom's/R1's....... I'm sorry, but as an example.......even a Porche will run like **** if not maintained properly. (only an example)

It's the install, that will make or break any coilover. :working: (or any performance part for that matter)

babs

I have been told that on my car, 103 000 km putting a set of coilcovers at about 1.5" drop would kill my shocks within 2 years???? Is that true??????

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

Hahahaha never laughed so hard in my life.... oh wait...I did... last night's Simpsons. *offtopic*

You'd be lucky to get 6 months out of them... I'm assuming stock/original shocks, correct? Please don't buy coilovers just for the hell of it. Get a good spring/shock combo, do the swap at once, maybe even get a bushing kit for it too.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

OK, now I read/observed (PULOVR) the rest of the posts, and here are my comments:

1. a shock must be matched to a spring and vice versa. If you have stiffer springs, you will need stiffer shocks.

2. PULOVR, your friend was using a race spring on the street Besides a harsh ride, he deserves one of these

As far as he is concerned, a shopping cart probably had a better ride. He was simply not ready to handle the added stiffness.

3. Worn shocks are softer than normal, and putting a stiffer spring on them will put an early end to them.

4. Unknown coilovers = unknown spring rates

5. You need to be a lot more specific about "bouncy" in order to get a diagnosis. If you mean it feels like it continues to bounce after a long undulation in the road instead of settling, it's the shocks. Cuz, cars with stiff springs and shocks will sometimes bounce right over bumps which is also bad. Car dynamics are complex...too complex for you, so just get a well known matched set, like Progress/Koni, Eibach/Koni, Neuspeed Sport/Tokico, Eibach/Bilstein. For the record, a Neuspeed SofSport and Bilstein shocks will give you the greatest comfort of any sporty aftermarket product.

babs

Thanks for the advice..

So basically lowing your car comes with a heavy bill!?!

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

lowering your car CORRECTLY comes with a bill. You can lower the car by cutting coils (free), heating coils (free), used springs ($100), cheap coilovers ($150 ), new springs ($400), good coilover sleeves ($550), springs/shocks ($1200-1800), coilovers ($2000-5000+), and of course, the necessary camber correction, bushings, and stress/tie bars, sway bars, chassis bracing. Total on chassis/suspension upgrades w/o the cost of brakes/wheels/tires, you're looking at close to $3000 minimum to do it correctly. But many have gotten away with far less, but they have more consequences to bear from lowering.

babs

$3000

Well looks like I will have to stick around with stock height with my 16" rims :cry:

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

I said correctly...95% of suspensions out there were not done correctly which is why you see so many complaints about bottiming out, bouncy/harsh rides, rubbing, etc. ...

Even my own suspension is a little off the "correctness" scale, since I am lacking camber adjustablity and lower body bracing. You can safely start off with some used springs on your shocks, and upgrade shocks as money becomes available. Budget for it in 6 months time for replacement. $3000 is also "optimized" handling vs. comfort on the street. A lot can be done for cheap if you focus on an area and do it slowly with a great deal of patience and keep an eye out for good deals on used stuff.

Any system in the car is a "balanced" system, and modifying one component will affect the rest of the balance in that system. So focusing on one system of the car (ie. susp, brakes, engine, transmission, interior, etc.) and carrying through with all the modifications is the key to longevity and performance on a budget. The order I've chosen is suspension, wheels/tires, brakes, safety/interior, engine, looks. The engine is almost last since I felt not upgrading the other systems while working on the engine would make for an unrelaible, unenjoyable, and downright dangerous car. Think about it....ever heard of a "scary fast" car (other than just the fear of outright speed/acceleration)? That means it's not balanced, in that it feels as though the chassis has been overburdened with too much power. Engine modifications should be last.

[AZN]MOoMOo

damn... so complicated stuffs...... even just for the suspension...
and I'm actually learning lots of stuff about car here...
and looks like I'm still a long way from getting a better suspension.... (3G.. so crazy)