visionslr5

the water pump blew on my zc dohc and i was preparing to tkae the timing belt off to look at it when i noticed the timing marks are not aligned, which woudl explain the engine knocking. the 2 camshafts are 1 tooth off from each other and the problem im having is finding the timing mark on the block for the crankshaft sprocket. the mark on the procket is obvious but does anyone know where or what the mark onthe block looks like? and also, how should i go about adjusting the camshafts and possibly crankshaft to correct this problem?

visionslr5

if the timing marks are off, how should they be adjusted?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

There will be a triangled-shaped pointer on the timing belt cover that the single white mark on the crank pulley should line up with.

If your timing is off you need to take the timing belt off.
Set the cams properly and set the crank so that the line on the oil pump gear lines up with the arrow on the oil pump housing. Its all quite obvious once you get the crank pulley off.

chris_si98

you sure its off a tooth? Sometimes it appears that it's off a tooth but it's either a) not at true TDC b)it's just the angle you're looking at it. If it's off a tooth it will run really, really lumpy.

With that being said.. zeeman pretty much said how to set the timing marks.. set it to TDC before taking off the crank pulley (the white mark on your crank pulley)

visionslr5

yea you're right the timing seems fine now. i took the water pump out and i've been trying to figure out if it was the bearing o the gasket that was causing the leak. the gasket looks quite worn, but not broken, and the bearing has no play in it. should i just replace the pump?

chris_si98

theres no play?

well, then chances are it's fine. BUT honestly.. while it's all apart I would just change the water pump and timing belt (the coolant leak probably started to ruin the belt). But that's just me.. if you are on a real tight budget then obviously if the belt looks fine, don't replace it.

How old are the tb/wp anyways?

visionslr5

the timing belt has minor cracking in it, and the fins on the water pump have a medium amount of rust/corrosion. i cant say for tsure how old they are. when i bought the car i was told that the person who swaped the engine roled back the kms to 64000, so thats all i have to go on. i am planning on selling the car in the spring/summer so i dont want to be spending too much on it as i spent enough fixing it up last summer. so with that in mind i woudl prob either go with new water pump and leave the belt, or new pump gasket and new belt. but if i get a new belt, do u know a good place to get one, because they seem a little hard to find.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

if theres ANY signs of wear on the timing belt do yourself a huge favour and change it.
I had mine break on my at 4000rpms on 5th gear cruising on the highway (OEM belt with 40,000kms), i got lucky and no damage was done, but thats not usually the case with our interference engines.

chris_si98

change both the tb and water pump. Go with an aftermarket product (napa, uap, etc) it wont be more than 120$ for both. As long as you're doing the labour yourself it's not too bad.

And the gasket comes with the water pump (cheap out and get a rebuilt one, and give back your core) Also get some RTV gasket sealer (o2 safe and high temp).. for your w/p gasket and your valve cover gasket.

imported_janz3n

i dont know if its just me but i think i read somewhere that you cant realy go by the arrows. is this right? theres also holes in the came that you can line up with the head to set the timing. all going by write ups on how to set the timing for dohc zc. can anyone tell me if im right or not?

imported_Cablerat

No need to post so many threads.. Make one big with all your problems.