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5-Bolt type R suspension conversion

Old 11-Dec-2005, 10:28 AM
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5-Bolt type R suspension conversion


I have a 93 integra 2 door GS and i wanna convert the suspension to type R 5-bolt. I called a place that sell the "JDM" type r suspension and i asked them if it would bolt right up they said " No because the JDM suspension the rear lower control arms are longer then the DA control arms so it would no bolt up."

So now im wondering if true what about the usdm type R 5 bolt suspension is it the same or will is bolt straight on?

If yes what exactly do i need for the conversion meaning parts and if not what would i need to do to make the conversion work USDM or JDM.

Thnks for everyones feedback but im going to make it work hopefully one way or another.
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Old 11-Dec-2005, 11:57 AM
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Its a bigger job for DA Integras than the common civic and 94-01 Intgera. To clear the air - The only diff between the USDM and JDM (98+) 5 bolt conversions is that the JDM uses 36mm outer axel spline (accord, prelude).

If you dont want to read all the following - here is the jist of it:

The front hubs have to be machined the same way as the USDM ITR hubs so they can fit into the DA wheel bearing. The only other problem that you will have when using the JDM 36mm hubs is that you have to make your own axels unless you can find JDM ITR (98+) axels. The other option you have is to take your current DA axels and take of the outer joint and put on accord or prelude joint - we can have this done for you, or any axel shop.

You dont see many DA integras sporting 5 lugs and the corresponding bigger brakes. There are several reasons for this. Reason #1 being that it's expensive, #2 it requires sourcing parts that are not easy to find, and #3, there has not really been a method to follow when doing it.

There is only one correct way to complete this setup on a DA integra. It involves machining, time for sourcing parts, and knowing what you are doing. This only applies to the front, as it is the only portion that is somewhat "complicated".

Converting the rear is a completely bolt on affair. To complete the rear setup, all you will need is the complete ITR rear trailing arms. . By complete I mean, both trailing arms, calipers, rotors, brake lines if available, and wheels. You can use the DA brake lines. You can also use the DA upper arms, or the ITR set. They are indentical. The choice of rear lower control arms will depend on what style of rear suspension you are using. JDM style rear shocks utilize a drop in style mounting, so JDM DA rear LCA's will be needed. You can use the ITR set, but the geometry is somewhat different. If you are going to stay with stock DA style rear suspension, then use your stock rear lower control arms.

Bolting all this into place is straightforward, everything lines up fine - for the rear. If you have ABS, then bolt on your DA wheel speed sensors, and you're ready to go. The easy part is done, and now on to the fronts.

Now the front is the place where you are going to run into problems.

While it is possible to just slap the front on and be done with it, it is highly recommended that you not do this. The curvature of the DC2-R knuckles vs. the DA knuckles is not the same, Its close but front suspension geometry will also be whack. This is the wrong way to do it!!!!

The correct way to go about it is to have the ITR hubs machined to fit into the DA wheel bearing. The ITR hubs will not just press into the DA wheels bearing as they are about .5mm too large in diameter. That gives you an idea of how much material needs to be taken off by the machine stop. Deciding which machine shop you are going to use is also very important as well. The tolerances have to be dead on, or you will be warping rotors constantly, and having to deal with constant vibrations from the front end. The best way is to take them a DA hub with the bearing race still attached to it, and had them measure that tolerance, and then machine the ITR hub to the same *exact* size as the DA hub.

Once you have the machined hubs in hand, then its time to press out your old wheel bearings from your knuckles. Once they are out, press in your NEW wheel bearings.

If done correctly, there are absolutetly no worries - its just not an "easy" swap This will give you the 5lug front with out any changes in supension angles. The parts required for his only consist of 2 ITR hubs, 2 DA wheel bearings, and 2 5lug wheels. You can bolt up the ITR rotors and calipers to the DA hub.
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