22mm CTR rear sway bar
#4
Yup. ASR or comptech is ideal. Beaks is so-so. I have read some horror stories. Personally I would buy an ASR for that piece of mind, but you could settle for a beaks. I guess it also depends how hard you drive your car. Either way you need some sort of subframe reinforcement.
#6
Beaks kit requires drilling.
It is not a guarantee tear out, but you have to understand that the function of a sway bar is to keep the left and right side wheels within a closer movement so when you corner, instead of one side gets compressed while the other side lifts, the difference in movement will get minimized.
And while the sway bar is held in place by 2 D brackets on the subframe, these two points become the pivot points, and they take a lot of stress - depending on how hard you corner.
Also, a lot of people with lowered vehicle plus a front lip, they entre a ramp on an angle - because they don't want to scratch their lip. That tilt angle is the same as doing a cornering - it puts stress on the pivot points. You don't need a hard cornering to do damages to your stress points.
If you want a bigger sway bar, you will need either 1) stronger subframe to counter the pivot point stress or 2) use a set of shocks/spring with higher rate so you can minimize the amount compression which equals to lesser height difference.
22mm rear sway bar on your regular "lowering" spring is a accident waiting to happen.
Not every Beaks user has their subframe tear out. You just need the right combo to make things work.
Good luck with your choice.
It is not a guarantee tear out, but you have to understand that the function of a sway bar is to keep the left and right side wheels within a closer movement so when you corner, instead of one side gets compressed while the other side lifts, the difference in movement will get minimized.
And while the sway bar is held in place by 2 D brackets on the subframe, these two points become the pivot points, and they take a lot of stress - depending on how hard you corner.
Also, a lot of people with lowered vehicle plus a front lip, they entre a ramp on an angle - because they don't want to scratch their lip. That tilt angle is the same as doing a cornering - it puts stress on the pivot points. You don't need a hard cornering to do damages to your stress points.
If you want a bigger sway bar, you will need either 1) stronger subframe to counter the pivot point stress or 2) use a set of shocks/spring with higher rate so you can minimize the amount compression which equals to lesser height difference.
22mm rear sway bar on your regular "lowering" spring is a accident waiting to happen.
Not every Beaks user has their subframe tear out. You just need the right combo to make things work.
Good luck with your choice.
#7
Well im debating about gettin a beaks kit and a subframe reinforcement.. I think that would hold up and also gonna be gettin a rear strut bar and lower tie bar as well.. the rear should be stiff and ****.. I think...
#10
yea get a reinforcement kit for sure.
you might aswell go with the asr complete kit which comes with a sway bar aswell a bit pricey but worth it.
as for the initial question ctr swaybar is not bolt on and it does require some drilling however if you have a rear ctr subframe then its dont a problem because the ctr subframe itself is predrilled and also is thicker and has its own tie bar on it already and the lca's have a hole aswell.
you might aswell go with the asr complete kit which comes with a sway bar aswell a bit pricey but worth it.
as for the initial question ctr swaybar is not bolt on and it does require some drilling however if you have a rear ctr subframe then its dont a problem because the ctr subframe itself is predrilled and also is thicker and has its own tie bar on it already and the lca's have a hole aswell.
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