210whp from a b16
 

Hey,

I have a goal with my b16. It's to spank this neon in my home town. I know he makes 207whp and 196 foot lbs of torque. What do I need to do to my b16 to make it faster then his neon. The b16 is in a crx right now. I was thinking full eagle stroker kit and alot of head work. Any suggestions.


Thanks,

Brad Rozzini

just buy a itr/gsr long block and build it or boost ur b16..... i have a nice ls/vtec setup if interested all new 0km on it with a good tune will make 200whp

haha please search

turbo it???

you should be able to keep up with a neon....
i ate up my friends neon with my old civic....

I dont know, this neon is pretty nuts. 2.0L bored .030 over. 12.5 to 1 compression, 590 lift cams, the head flows like no tomorrow. I want be able to beat him N/A not turbo. I think a b16 with a stroker kit will do the trick cause the crx has the weight advantage

boost+tune= spanking of the neon

lol. If your going to spend the money on a stroker kit, just get a custom charger and tune it.

Just search up diff. set-ups and I'm sure you'll find one you'll like and can afford.

stroking a b16 totally defeats a b16 in my opinion. B16's have a near perfect rod/stroke ratio which translates to safe high revs.
200whp isn't impossible out of a n/a b16. Search honda-tech for omniman he's built 200whp b16's before.

misleading information

well your inexperience is quite evident in your post magicguy.
First of all you can't bore b-series engines without sleeving them. And even if you did sleeve a b16 you couldn't obtain 2.0L. The biggest bore i would go with is 85mm and thats pushing it. And that still would only get you barely 1.8L.
Why would you shave the head and deck the block AND use 12.5:1 CR pistons? your CR would be even higher.
ARP rod bolts aren't necessary in a b16 and neither is an external oil feed line.
Don't waste your time with a spoon ecu, just get a custom chip burned on the dyno using a wideband o2.
So, after spending all of that money on the block why wouldn't you just start with a b18b, or b18c or b20?

misleading information

well its posts like yours that fill the internet with misleading information. Thats the problem with the internet, people can just copy what they read, be it wrong or right, and post it somewhere else misinforming some poor soul looking for help.
Not to be a dick, but if you don't have anything constructive to add then you shouldn't post.

Re: 210whp from a b16
 

Yes. Listen to Zeeman :thumbup:

leave the stroker kit alone. it just an ls with special pistons that have the pin moved way up into the oil ring which imo is a stupid ass thing to do and will end up costing you in the end and you still wind up with a sh*t r/s ratio. you need to face the fact that displacement rules in most cases so you are going to have to spend alot of cash to beat this guy with your engine. the first place you should start is compression and to get 12.5 - 13:1 is next to impossile on a b16 because of the short stroke without mt everest domes on the pistons which cause problems with the combustion process. also a bigger bore is needed say 84mm (you can go 85mm like zeeman says but it is pushing it) and welding the heads quench pads will be needed to help with the compression. the head will benifit from 1mm over intake valves if you can get the compression up near 13:1 as well as some endyn bumpstix cams. you should also think of getting your rocker arms lightened and the whole bottom end balanced (maybe remove a tad bit of weight from the crank as well but not too much cause we need the weight for what little torque there is). one thing i would like to state is static compression doesnt mean anything. engines do not run in a static state the dynamic compression ratio could be 10:1 in an engine that has a static compression ratio of 13:1. i have a head for sale that has all the above work done. let me know if you are interested.

zeeman just to let you know when building an engine you will cut both head and block in order to achieve the proper clearances. for example: my 2.0 had .070 taken of the head and .020 removed from the block in order to get a .060 quench (piston to head) and .045 piston to valve with pistons that have 7.45cc domes. your tolerances are way more important than static compression.

very true. But what i thought he meant was mill the head (to raise CR) and deck the block (to raise CR) along with 12.5:1 CR pistons. Its is very important to have a flat mating surface (as i am sure you already know) but IMO to go to town on removing surface to jack compression up is kind of risky b/c of the clearance issues it could create.
Not everyone is a machinist like you and been doing it for god knows how long, like you. So i would hate to see this poor fella get some crazy high compression slugs, mill the head and deck the block, put it all together and have those nice new pistons slam against the valves b/c there was no clearance. Now i know you would know to clay the engine (and all of the other neat tricks of the trade) but do you think someone thats trying to beat a 200whp 200tq neon with his b16 would?
Loose the b16 (bottom end at least) and it will make your life so much easier. Or just get some n20.

zeeman, he needs to spend cash at a reputable performance import machine shop. he cannot do this himself, maybe with someone who knows his stuff and can instruct the shop what to do but with the magnatude of this job he will be going back and forth to that shop constantly. also my shop might still happen, im going to look at a place tomorrow in pickering and i have found machinery and some money so lets hope. i want to be able to make a killer fast and reliable engine for a rock bottom rate and i think evryone would be happy with that. i will also be looking to sponsor a couple cars eg: you supply the parts and i will do the build and machining for nada and they will have to run my stickers and goto the track and other events. i think you maybe a good candidate for this Andrew since you have some good knowledge behind you...hell im going to be looking for someone to train soon, wanna be an engine builder?

Hey man, if you get the shop goin im willing to work for free. I just want to learn stuff.

How about transmission work? Just a thought.

damn, LEITNER that would be great if you end up doing that

it would be a honour to work for you steve. I think you should look at a place on the other side of toronto b/c i am in hamilton and stuck here until May (when the lease on the house is over)and i think that i would be a damn shame for me to miss out on an opportunity like this.
You could count on me for a sponsorship (at least), i am actually building an engine (well bottom end) right now, i am just trying to save up some money for the machine work i need done, b/c its big $$$$ as i am sure you know.