JDM SIR99

I have a 2000 CIVIC SIR with moster flow intake, hypertech header, 5 Zigen exhaust, B&M short shifter and B&M fuel pressure regulator. I have not taken it to the track yet does anyone know what 1/4 MHP time i will be running with this setup.


I want my SIR to be like 220 HP without going turbo/supercharge/nitrous. I want an ALL MOTOR SIR. What mod should i do next or should i do a B20 Frankenstein setup and how much it would cost

HAPPY

If your goal is 220 (to the wheels) you may as well ditch the 1.6 and start building a 2.0.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

Sounds to me like you're on a budget by the modifications you've done, specifically, the Monster Flow and Hypertech. I could also bet that you have an axle-back exhaust, not the cat-back. Am I right? If this is the case, you can stop dreaming, the 220 all motor hp doesn't happen to people on a budget....

SiR-Racer

you're going to need a Type R block for starters, some really aggressive cams and all kinds of other internal mods before you even get close to 200whp.

ADR3NLYN_EK

H22

cee_mon

if money is a object than you will never see 220 at the wheels going N/A.

Import Racer

to get 220 at the wheels going N/A, you're probably looking anywhere from $10,000 to $15,000 depending on parts and who's doing it for you.

imported_SW20 MR2

94turbolx

whats the big deal whether or not its NA? i would go with turbo or vortech supercharger because of the HP/dollar ratio...but to others money is no object...im just wondering, why would you want a motor that is NA instead of supercharged especially if its only 1.6L?

imported_1sicsol

IMAO , when it comes to the race, you bring what you got. (ie NOS, TURBO , NA whatever)

Who ever is faster wins whater you using. Id have a serious NA moter if I had the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

imported_1sicsol

My friend ran 16.0 in his SIR.....
He cant drive though.

imported_SW20 MR2

This thread pertains only to LS/VTEC and CR-VTEC setups, but there's a lot of useful information:

http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.ph...b=5&o=0&fpart=

EK7_DriftMania

True, you have to be looking to spend around $15K+. I have worked with a garage that mod a Integra GS 140hp stock - spend $10K on his motor, N/S for sure, only made 190hp, but it is slower than ITR. For $10K, he should have spend it on a ITR or H22A motor, and still have a whole bunch left for other things.

I am looking for a Accord euro R motor right now, makes 240hp and 157trq stock. Still with all that power, its 0-60 time is pretty crappy, can't think of why, until I find out, not doing it. It setup is around $12K.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

That's an ignorant statement, you clearly have no idea what you're talking about.

A turbo will turn your pistons into crumpled aluminium foil and your block into a sive if you don't know what you're doing. And an NA motor will cough/sputter/die without any real damage (unless you REALLY lean it out or starve it for oil). If you lean out a N/A motor, you're an idiot...but turbo is easy to lean out. You just have to have money, and lots of it to go fast in a N/A car, but for turbo...you have to know what you're doing. Any idiot can have a N/A motor put together by a pro, and not touch it for the next 50K, whereas a turbo motor has different needs, and will demand maintenance.

imported_SurferBoy

Hey Steve (sorry just assuming this is u)

How much did this cost (Tcc PRICE) and what was done to it.

Thanks

imported_SW20 MR2

Keep in mind he was talking about flywheel hp, so that would be a gain of 40 hp over stock. This would probably entail boltons, headwork, and cams at a minimum. Look to spend about $4-5k on those items. Ofcourse, this depends on what type of components you buy (ie. Ractive vs Greddy).

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

Maybe you should get an education so you can express yourself more clearly without having to explain what you meant. Perhaps I can start by teaching you a little physics and chemistry of an internal combustion engine.

See there is this thing called volumetric efficiency by us grown ups. That is the percentage of cylinder volume that is filled with a combustable mixture of atomized fuel and air. The more air and fuel the engine can pack into the cylinder during the intake stroke, the more power it can produce, ceteris paribus (that's "all other parameters being constant" for you laymen). By design, a naturally aspirated engine is far from acheving unit volumetric efficiency. This is why raising the pressure of the intake charge above atmospheric pressure results in a rush of air that fills more of the cylinder volume, and when combined with enough fuel to create a stoichiometric air fuel ratio, can create far more power than a normally aspirated engine.

When there is a lack of fuel for the stoichiometric air fuel ratio, the cylinder temperatures will rise, the combustable charge will ignite out of timing with the spark, and detonation will occur. This may in severe cases cause melted pistons, broken rods, blocks, studs.

While a NA engine can do the same, it is less likely, because the intake charge is not pressurized, and there is not likely to be as big a demand for fuel as in the turbo engine.

Also, the returns on investment in terms of Power/$ diminishes quickly for a NA engine since there is that physics law....volumetic efficiency relating to atmospheric pressure. A turbo motor stands to gain a great deal from more money being invested, and diminishing returns occur only after the 400 hp mark. At this point, the block may need to be modified significanlty due to the open deck design, and the water jackets may need to be cemented making the car not driveable anymore. Besides that, you will need to beef up the drivetrain. This is of course assuming you have already completed the bottom end work. But you can't tell me that you can get big numbers from a NA motor without a change in pistons for a higher compression ratio. So while you invest in all that, I invest in a beefier bottom end, and you top out at 200hp, while I can just keep turning up the boost....

Hey, tell me this...how much horsepower does a Spoon or JUN or Toda crate engine make NA? Ohhhh....a B16B with 205 hp. And the cost? $6000USD in Japan converted (not including shipping). And why do they not use turbo? Ohhhh....endurance racing in Japan. Hmmmm....longevity you say. That's right! Longevity is better on NA motors when properly done.

So if Toda/JUN/Spoon don't wring more hp from a B16 engine, what the hell makes you think you can tell this guy that some cracker can get more power out of it w/o using a turbo WHILE REMAINING RELIABLE. A small, properly done turbo will be cheaper, more powerful, and with proper maint. more reliable in the 200whp range than any NA motor you can imagine.:working:

imported_SurferBoy

Thanks sw20

I did notice it was flywheel hp he was taking about

Just curious too see if it was Leitner & Bush work that got the 198. ie. as you said headwork ctr pistons etc.
Or was it boltons and mild tuning.

Thanks

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

My motto is "Don't hate, Educate!" j/k

I just think it's funny how most of these ppl have the audacity to speak of internal work on an engine... and claim it's so easy to get all this power. Most of these people have never had to tune anything...they just throw parts on their cars, then claim how their butt dyno showed improvement.

But then these people post about "Check Engine Light came on - what to do?" People miss the basics of tuning, and jump right into the internal work. Baby steps ppl baby steps. This is not directed at anyone in particular, just something I noticed on all the boards. There is rarely ever a true tuner on any of the boards cause they have absolutely nothing to gain from being on the boards. They just have to look at stupid posts like "AEM vs plumbing pipe" and crap like that.

Oh, and the "book" is for the benefit of people that actually care to learn.

HAPPY

Um...I think this statement was meant to be sarcastic. I think both of you are arguing the same point.?.