Went to the dyno today
27-Feb-2008, 01:44 PM
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Went to the dyno today
So i went to TAG racecraft for their 3 pulls for $30 deal and was impressed with the results. I've only street tuned my car and after a quick review of my datalogs i noticed i was only running 9-9.5psi on all 3 of these runs.
My setup is:
b16a ported and polished, 11.5:1 CR, stage 2 crane cams and valvetrain STOCK BOTTOM END with ARP head studs holding it all together.
GT3255E turbo on a crappy "tubular" manifold using a turbosmart 38mm wastegate controlled by an APEX-i AVCR electronic boost controller.
3" downpipe, to a 2.5" high flow cat and 2.5" exhaust with a baffled resonator with 2.5" magnaflow muffler.
Street tuned by me without touching the adjustable cam gears and a simple 0.75 degree per psi ignition retard, running roughly a 12:1 AFR.
The 1st run was a waste b/c the car wasn't even at normal operating temp and it hit my cold rev limit at 7400rpm and i'm pretty sure vtec didn't engage b/c the car was still technically cold.
The 2nd run was with VTEC at 6300rpm revving to 8500rpm. You can see the vtec is set a little too LOW by how the power drops rougly 20whp when vtec engages.
The 3rd run was with VTEC at 7000rpm revving to only 8250rpms (hence the lower peak WHP), clearly vtec wants to be even higher, more like 7500rpms. But look at the midrange power between 6300-7000rpms i gained just by raising the vtec up to 7000rpms.
I'm very interested to see what kind of WHP i'd make if i revved it up to 9000rpms, the power isn't dropping off at 8500rpms, so the turbo isn't out of its efficiency range at higher rpms. Judging by the power curve i wouldn't be surprised to be close to 300whp at 9k.
Heres a shot of just the last pull i did. You can clearly see vtec wants to be even higher. Yes the torque sucks, but its a 1.6L with a small exhaust. After some dyno tuning i'm sure i could get it over 200ft/lbs of torque.
I was figuring i'd hit 250(ish)whp since i've only street tuned it, but i was wrong.
My setup is:
b16a ported and polished, 11.5:1 CR, stage 2 crane cams and valvetrain STOCK BOTTOM END with ARP head studs holding it all together.
GT3255E turbo on a crappy "tubular" manifold using a turbosmart 38mm wastegate controlled by an APEX-i AVCR electronic boost controller.
3" downpipe, to a 2.5" high flow cat and 2.5" exhaust with a baffled resonator with 2.5" magnaflow muffler.
Street tuned by me without touching the adjustable cam gears and a simple 0.75 degree per psi ignition retard, running roughly a 12:1 AFR.
The 1st run was a waste b/c the car wasn't even at normal operating temp and it hit my cold rev limit at 7400rpm and i'm pretty sure vtec didn't engage b/c the car was still technically cold.
The 2nd run was with VTEC at 6300rpm revving to 8500rpm. You can see the vtec is set a little too LOW by how the power drops rougly 20whp when vtec engages.
The 3rd run was with VTEC at 7000rpm revving to only 8250rpms (hence the lower peak WHP), clearly vtec wants to be even higher, more like 7500rpms. But look at the midrange power between 6300-7000rpms i gained just by raising the vtec up to 7000rpms.
I'm very interested to see what kind of WHP i'd make if i revved it up to 9000rpms, the power isn't dropping off at 8500rpms, so the turbo isn't out of its efficiency range at higher rpms. Judging by the power curve i wouldn't be surprised to be close to 300whp at 9k.
Heres a shot of just the last pull i did. You can clearly see vtec wants to be even higher. Yes the torque sucks, but its a 1.6L with a small exhaust. After some dyno tuning i'm sure i could get it over 200ft/lbs of torque.
I was figuring i'd hit 250(ish)whp since i've only street tuned it, but i was wrong.
Last edited by zeeman; 27-Feb-2008 at 01:56 PM.
27-Feb-2008, 02:24 PM
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28-Feb-2008, 09:17 AM
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nasty isn't it? Splitfires work at its best i guess. I'm glad i didn't have to pay for it, b/c theres no way i'd hand over even a penny for that POS.
I 100% agree with you, but until i can get another one for free, this one will have to do.
Wanna donate one?....hahaha
I'd like to run a better manifold and turn the intercooler into a backdoor entry so i can eliminate all of that unnecessary charge piping that goes from the turbo to the cooler.
I 100% agree with you, but until i can get another one for free, this one will have to do.
Wanna donate one?....hahaha
I'd like to run a better manifold and turn the intercooler into a backdoor entry so i can eliminate all of that unnecessary charge piping that goes from the turbo to the cooler.
28-Feb-2008, 11:30 AM
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Awesome numbers man! Didn't realize you still had the stock bottom end in that thing. Impressive.
I guess next time you have a chance to dyno tune it, you should try lowering vtec back to 6300 and try to smooth out the power drop from 6300-7500.
I guess next time you have a chance to dyno tune it, you should try lowering vtec back to 6300 and try to smooth out the power drop from 6300-7500.
28-Feb-2008, 01:01 PM
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Thanks.
The whole turbo kit, injectors and boost controller were given to me by my best friend (before he passed away...RIP dennis roque) when he bought his CBR600 F4i.
I'll let you know, i'll be at the track all summer this year with this car and my CRX (boosted d-series y7/z6 mini-me). I'm interested to see how this will compare to the rex, i'm only aiming for 225whp with the mini-me turbo, but the CRX is a race car thats been gutted and has a cage in it, both cars have good suspension though.
VTECthunder:
Next time i go to the dyno it'll be with the wideband in my car and me actually doing some tuning. I was there, and it was only $30 and i already had my laptop with me for the other car that was there too. I'd like to spend 3-4 hours on the dyno, trying out a higher vtec engagement point, setting a lower vtec engagement point (back down to 5000-6000rpms) and trying to tune out the dip and comparing the results between the higher and lower vtec points. I'd also really like to see how the different cam timing settings will effect power, but cam gear tuning is time consuming. I think with less overlap the car would make better power with the lower vtec engagement point, it doesn't seem to like the intial increase in overlap when vtec engages until higer in the rpms.
I've tried a lower vtec engagement on the street and it feels much weaker, but i don't like messing with ignition timing too much on the street, but it could just be a matter of needing more timing through 5000-7500 on the vtec maps to smooth it out, thats what dyno tuning is for, but i'm don't have the money for 3-4 hour of dyno time and am quite pleased with the results as is
The whole turbo kit, injectors and boost controller were given to me by my best friend (before he passed away...RIP dennis roque) when he bought his CBR600 F4i.
VTECthunder:
Next time i go to the dyno it'll be with the wideband in my car and me actually doing some tuning. I was there, and it was only $30 and i already had my laptop with me for the other car that was there too. I'd like to spend 3-4 hours on the dyno, trying out a higher vtec engagement point, setting a lower vtec engagement point (back down to 5000-6000rpms) and trying to tune out the dip and comparing the results between the higher and lower vtec points. I'd also really like to see how the different cam timing settings will effect power, but cam gear tuning is time consuming. I think with less overlap the car would make better power with the lower vtec engagement point, it doesn't seem to like the intial increase in overlap when vtec engages until higer in the rpms.
I've tried a lower vtec engagement on the street and it feels much weaker, but i don't like messing with ignition timing too much on the street, but it could just be a matter of needing more timing through 5000-7500 on the vtec maps to smooth it out, thats what dyno tuning is for, but i'm don't have the money for 3-4 hour of dyno time and am quite pleased with the results as is
28-Feb-2008, 03:37 PM
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Track is all about weight, suspension, brakes, tires and the driver - lappin that is.. You could have 700 hp but if any of the things mentioned above are weak ur lap times will be garbageo. For a track car focus on the things i said above, and then ur engine even if its a B series or K.
ino from expirence lmao
ino from expirence lmao
28-Feb-2008, 08:43 PM
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the rex is by no means eye candy. Its got god awful altezza tail lights, a nasty-molded in body kit, with mismatch front bumper that was only held on with 2 bolts for easy road/track side removal to fix busted couplers.
If i had more money i'd like to return it to stock and put all stock bumpers on, but i don't and this was a free car that i'm building in my buddys memory with parts that have been donated to me from friends and people that knew my buddy.
If i had more money i'd like to return it to stock and put all stock bumpers on, but i don't and this was a free car that i'm building in my buddys memory with parts that have been donated to me from friends and people that knew my buddy.
28-Feb-2008, 11:07 PM
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VTECthunder:
Next time i go to the dyno it'll be with the wideband in my car and me actually doing some tuning. I was there, and it was only $30 and i already had my laptop with me for the other car that was there too. I'd like to spend 3-4 hours on the dyno, trying out a higher vtec engagement point, setting a lower vtec engagement point (back down to 5000-6000rpms) and trying to tune out the dip and comparing the results between the higher and lower vtec points. I'd also really like to see how the different cam timing settings will effect power, but cam gear tuning is time consuming. I think with less overlap the car would make better power with the lower vtec engagement point, it doesn't seem to like the intial increase in overlap when vtec engages until higer in the rpms.
I've tried a lower vtec engagement on the street and it feels much weaker, but i don't like messing with ignition timing too much on the street, but it could just be a matter of needing more timing through 5000-7500 on the vtec maps to smooth it out, thats what dyno tuning is for, but i'm don't have the money for 3-4 hour of dyno time and am quite pleased with the results as is
Next time i go to the dyno it'll be with the wideband in my car and me actually doing some tuning. I was there, and it was only $30 and i already had my laptop with me for the other car that was there too. I'd like to spend 3-4 hours on the dyno, trying out a higher vtec engagement point, setting a lower vtec engagement point (back down to 5000-6000rpms) and trying to tune out the dip and comparing the results between the higher and lower vtec points. I'd also really like to see how the different cam timing settings will effect power, but cam gear tuning is time consuming. I think with less overlap the car would make better power with the lower vtec engagement point, it doesn't seem to like the intial increase in overlap when vtec engages until higer in the rpms.
I've tried a lower vtec engagement on the street and it feels much weaker, but i don't like messing with ignition timing too much on the street, but it could just be a matter of needing more timing through 5000-7500 on the vtec maps to smooth it out, thats what dyno tuning is for, but i'm don't have the money for 3-4 hour of dyno time and am quite pleased with the results as is
Cool stuff. I gotta see this car and you gotta show me crome some time.
Yeah, tuning a car is no walk in the park, especially with a system like vtec. Suddenly, you've got a big cam and smoothing out that transition can be tricky. Especially with boost.
On our race car 87' MR2 with the 4agze with the over driven SC pulley, water to air IC, and EDIS, running on mega squirt, with just a half hour of dyno time we managed to gain 18whp (from the base run) by adding some timing up top. We also plan to go back and spend a few hours getting her dialed in just right. Stock 4agze's dyno at about 115whp. We made 150whp, so we're happy for now. lol
29-Feb-2008, 09:36 AM
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Heres some pics of the CRX dirty as hell sittin in my driveway.
Not much to look at, but its definately fun to drive.
Theres no engine in it in these pictures, thats why it sits so high in the front. The altezzas are going to be replaced with stock tail lights and it no longer has those 17" rims on it.
Not much to look at, but its definately fun to drive.
Theres no engine in it in these pictures, thats why it sits so high in the front. The altezzas are going to be replaced with stock tail lights and it no longer has those 17" rims on it.
