Tyson09

iTrader: (1)

some really good info here, and yea ebay kits blow, and just when you think you have read enough, there is always more to learn.

Zeeman= "The ****"






Also he gets gay with kids

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't waste your money using a p'n'p head, if you want more power, turn the boost up a little bit, its really that simple on a boosted car.

As for the IAT sensor, i've heard that the Euro R accords use a threaded type IAT sensor and have actually seen one on a prelude that had the Euro R accord intake manifold.

Ideally you want the IAT sensor in the intake manifold b/c that will give you the most accurate reading, BUT for simplicity's sake the greddy kit puts the IAT sensor in the pre-turbo intake piping. This is so that you don't have to re-wire a different IAT sensor in and rig something up to work properly.

This is the xenocron kit I was talking about earlier.
Xenocron Tuning: Aluminum IAT Sensor Weld Flange Kit

As far as I know you have to use a honda/acura IAT sensor b/c the different manufacturers will have different voltage scales that may not be compatible with an obd1 ecu.

devingodard

wat year prelude motor has them? never done much with lude besdies pull motor and sell lol. and i could buy one and just tap the intake my gfs dad is a machinist so that would be easy

devingodard

and really no pand p? not even inake mani? i heard p and p the intake rather then buy a skunk2 pretty much same gains

MPR

The only time a p & p is really worth it is if your building an NA motor. In your application the gains are not significant enough to be worth the cost. Instead spend that money on better components for your turbo build.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

Actually its the European Accord Type R that uses that style IAT sensor, not the prelude. I just meant that I've tuned a prelude that was using the European Accord Type R intake manifold that had that screw in style IAT sensor.

The preludes use the regular obd1 style IAT sensor like the b-series engines do (except the b20).

Gasket matching the intake manifold to the head is worth it and very cheap/easy to do, but IMO porting the head isn't worth the extra money it costs to do it properly. Properly being the key word, if anyone tells you they can port your head for $300 stay away b/c I guarantee that it won't be done using a flow bench to measure each cylinder to ensure each cylinder flows the same CFM.

devingodard

no he said it would cost me at least 700 if he didnt owe me and i know the owner of the company and they do use flow benchs and everything on a daily basis but not on hondas lol......They mainly do resto work on early 90's or high end cars like jags bentelys, lotus, they even have this sick *** kit car that is right now the fastest street legal car in north america its nuts. But i knwo they know wha they are doing in there. But if even a port isnt worth it i will just stick the three hundo into the turbo set up

devingodard

and prob that xenon weld in kit. and weld it into the mani now. should it be wleded into the plenum or the runners and if it in the runners which one?

D.T.P

Port and polish really isn't worth it.
On n/a cars, which are based on vacuum rather than forced induction, make a bigger difference. Now since you have a turbo pushing air in, the difference in gains will be very very minor, and for the money you'd spend you should just add onto the turbo budget and not cheap out on critical parts like bov/wastegate/oil feed and return.

MPR

Try put it in the center of the main chamber of the intake manifold, not in a runner.

devingodard

k thanks for the info just in the midst of gettin the minor parts together and put on. Ill try to postpics of this whole thing if i can figure it out. BUt intanke mani should be in this week or early next. And comp im still trying to find. And you guys said no fmu right just a chipped p06 or p28?

MPR

^yep.

devingodard

k cool thanks so much and if i ahev any questions ill post back and get ur opinions. and will try to get some pics up soon of the b4 car

devingodard

anyone know where i can get a set of 440 injectors cant find any online for sale and i dont want to have to ship from the states

devingodard

I know this is the wrong place for this q but u guys seem to know what your talkin about.. i know i can bolt and wire up an auto y8 mani onto my y7 no modification to wirng, sensors, or actual mani,. (Swapping a y8 intake manifold onto a y7 - D-series.org) but i was wondering could if anyone knew an a6 would work the same all the sensors seem to be there its a three wire iacv but its obd1? and it should bolt up to the head np

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

nope, the only 3-wire IACV is obd2, either the y7 IACV and the auto y8 IACV are 3-wire.

Hugehumongo

this thread is very interesting i shared it on FB so all my buddies can see the genius advice you guys give.

devingodard

i know these guys are geniuses

devingodard

k so in know this is prob the simplest answer ever but if i buy the 440 injectors first why cant i run them on the stock obd2 comp? people are sayig with the y7 to y8 intake swap be sure to use the y7 injectors cause they are 190 and the y8 is 240 and you will run rich.this doesnt make any sense to me would the comp not only put in as much fuel as is needed becuase is self diagnosing? (obd2)..

or is this only if the person is running a an obd1 comp with no tune or flash?

i dont think i should have a prob since the comp should only allow as much fuel to be dumped in according to the amount and temp of air.....but every thread i read on y7 to y mani says to use the y7 injectors so you dont run rich? and wouldnt it be the same as being at low rpms with little boost coming form a turbo and using 440s? cause again comp shiuld only put as much gas as is needed?

thanks for the help guys

D.T.P

I may be wrong, so hope zeeman/mike can correct or agree with me, but I believe software fuel maps are calibrated by percentages. Therefore certain x% of 190cc injector will not be the same as x% of 220cc or 440cc.

When you think about it, if ecu was to adjust fuel intake 100% accurately, then there would be no need for custom fuel maps in software. And in a sense, slightly advancing/retarding timing would help ignition maps also. Then there would be no need for tuning for mild turbo setup.

Again, I may be off with the % thing, but I remember looking up at megasquirt fuel maps and I believe it was setup that way.

Just wait till the day of the assembly and put the injectors in then. It really doesn't take long to do.