ryan_77

iTrader: (2)

hey im going to be buying a d16y8 and i want to turbo it a bit. i want to keep the motor stock(not block or head work). can anyone tell me their setups that have made at least 200 hp safely on a stock d16y8? like what turbo kit, tuner, etc. thankss

ilDiavolo

wait dude.. are u saying u just want to drop a turbo on without building it for one?

trunk_munkey

Turbo D16 • View forum - Noobie Questions

spike

You can make that power out of it being stock, but you better have a good tune, or you will blow it up.

ryan_77

iTrader: (2)

yea i want to keep it stock or maybe minor building. whats a safe setup for a stock or almost stock motor? im not trying to make a race car just something that is a little more fun to drive than a b series motor for a cheaper cost.

D.T.P

You could turbo that y8 with a small blower and make 200hp. Gt25-gt28 would be perfect since those would spool fast. You can go cheaper and get dsm 14b or 16g which are approximately same size as the Garrett I mentioned above.
I will be using 14b very soon, once I get some more $$ since few things set me back but I'm hoping to hit 200hp on stock z6. Read up in turbod16, lotsa info on turbo builds there.

ilDiavolo

Originally Posted by ilDiavolo
wait dude.. are u saying u just want to drop a turbo on without building it for one?
You can make that power out of it being stock, but you better have a good tune, or you will blow it up. i know u can but ur better off just doing a little build to it.. well that is my opinion anyways...

ilDiavolo

[quote=ilDiavolo;1375845]Originally Posted by ilDiavolo
wait dude.. are u saying u just want to drop a turbo on without building it for one?
You can make that power out of it being stock, but you better have a good tune, or you will blow it up.






i know u can but ur better off just doing a little build to it.. well that is my opinion anyways...

Peter H

Your stock motor can take 200-220whp. More then enough for the streets. A t28, or a T3 will get you there no problem. Stick to .48 or .64 exhaust A/r.

For tuning, just use a chipped p28 with crome or neptune.

Besides that, setups are fairly basic, and it will depend on your budget and what sorts of bells and whistles you want.

poopoohead

just custom piece one together

HF manifold and the turbos mentioned above

homemadeturbo.com has great information on what your options are.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

i've seen d-series' take more than 200-225whp reliably....but if you wanna be safe keep it below 225whp. You definately do not need to build the engine to make 200whp IMO.

D-series engines are cheap as hell, if something does happen, you'll spend another $300-500 for another engine, in which case you can build that one if you're worried about blowing another engine.

I'd say stay away from the 14b or t25, they're really small turbos that don't do so hot in the higher rpm range (6000+) where our little engines perform the best. The cars i've tuned with these little turbos usually has the boost drop off a few psi up past 5500-6000rpms b/c the turbos are out of their efficiency range.

I'd go with a t3 .48 a/r (like 2join mentioned). This will be small enough to spool quickly but will provide good top end power, better than the 14b/t25 options.

You'll want a higher volume fuel pump, like a walbro 255lph and at least 440cc injectors (a lot of people use DSM 450s from turbo talon/eclipses). Spend a couple of hours dyno tuning the car and you'll be fine. Neptune FTMFW.

ol Dusty

iTrader: (2)

if you have the 14b pushing higher PSI than stock would that help keep the boost up at higher RPM? say your running around 10 PSI? I don't mean higher RPM like a B16 would hit but D's start to drop off abouve the stock 7200 RPM anyway. Can this be tuned out?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

It can be tuned out with the use of an electronic boost controller.

The boost will drop some b/c the turbo is out of its efficiency range, at any given PSI. So if you're running the stock boost level it'll be at 8psi until 6000rpms at which point it will drop down to about 6psi. If you turn up the boost to 10psi, then at 6000rpms it'll drop down to 8psi.

So using a good EBC (apex-i AVCR, or neptunes EBC feature) you can adjust the duty cycle of the solenoid (that controls the boost) at the higher rpms to help keep the boost level steady.

ol Dusty

iTrader: (2)

good to know. I'm workin a on a 14b. I already have the turbo, and pretty much everything except the oil/coolant feed lines and I wanna get a new tranny and LSD first. Also I have a spare motor that I wanna build up and go bigger next year but the current motor, while still strong, good compression and doesn't burn a lot of oil, next to nothing it even passed the e-test last fall IS however very old and pushing 550k so I don't know if I should even bother touching it or just puting in the new one in and boosting that but I bought this motor used and I don't really know the condition of it, hence I wanna build it first.

also I have a chipped ecu from J-K tuning running moates anyone have experience with moates? can the ecu be tuned by another program like neptune?

SloHatch.95

I do notice the power drop that zeeman speaks of with my setup. It is kind of frustrating when it feels like you should have more pull. The 14b is still a good turbo. I have a manual boost controller and it seems to work well with my setup as well. It hits 10psi and drops to 8psi by the time it redlines.

sirux

I'm going to be turbo'ing my d16 engine.. with a 7-9psi boost... looking t get around 200whp.. I'm selling my subwoofer and all that random **** and I'm going to concentrate on getting it fixed and tuned..

My question is.. can i still run the car during the winter????
and what am I looking to spend if I want to boost my stock d16y8 and make it realiable.. i want to keep it stock, but I need a good tune..
Any recommendations?
Thanks!

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

ya, if built right you can run the car year round just like any other turbo car (1.8T VW, 2.0 turbo WRX, Saabs, Volvos, etc...)

I used a WRX turbo (TD04L by Mitsubishi) for my build. I made (with the help of friends for machining and TIG welding) a stainless log style manifold. The exhaust housing on the turbo was clocked and ceramic coated, the manifold was heat wrapped. I used a Tial wastegate with a 4 psi spring. I had a Turbo XS HP MBC, a Johnny Racecar intercooler, made my own intercooler piping welded up and joined to the t-body, turbo, and IC using rubber coolant hose off a semi truck, with stainless hose clamps from Home Depot. The BOV was a WRX peice since I wanted it to be quiet. The pump was a Holley high perf 255 liter unit (meaning it flowed 255l at 90 psi as opposed to 255 at 40 psi like the walbro). Had RC 440 injectors, run on Hondata 3 BD on a P06 computer and a OBD2a to OBD1 harness made by a guy on hondatech. I drilled and welded in an oil return bung to the pan for a return. Oil was fed to the turbo with a Golden Eagle sandwich plate with a hard line to the headlight, then a Russell line the rest of the way to allow for flex. The turbo was also water cooled and had hard lines running from a splice at the FITV valve to the housing, those lines were wrapped in spark plug thermal boots since they were close to the manifold. The gauges were Greddy elect boost and EGT gauges. I also had an Auto Meter Ultralite oil press gage hooked up out of sight just so I could check oil press at the turbo feed line. Stock bottom end (Y7) with a Y8 intake manifold off an automatic (3 wire IACV). I ran open downpipe since I ran out of time and money to finish the setup... then I removed the whole thing and it's been sitting in my garage. It cost me well over $4000 in parts and materials alone and I never even got to get it tuned or change the clutch for that money. Oh yeah, and I had colder plugs in there too... BKR6E I think (off the top of my head it's hard to rememeber).