Leakdown test question..again
08-Feb-2008, 11:55 AM
#1
Leakdown test question..again
In my last thread all I wanted was recommendations for leakdown and compression tests. It got shutdown. No affiliates answered my questions either. So here I go again 
I got a compression test kit so i'm good with that.
Still looking for leakdown test site, Anybody hear willing to do one for me or info on making a home made one..?
Thanks.
I got a compression test kit so i'm good with that.
Still looking for leakdown test site, Anybody hear willing to do one for me or info on making a home made one..?
Thanks.
08-Feb-2008, 01:25 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 910
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repa...ques057_1.html
http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
this one has a parts list near the bottom. You should be able to buy the parts from Cdn Tire, NAPA, etc.,
http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
this one has a parts list near the bottom. You should be able to buy the parts from Cdn Tire, NAPA, etc.,
08-Feb-2008, 05:36 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pfaff
Posts: 1,560
yeah man the mods on this site are douches
especially zeeman.. big time queer.
Anyways, to do a leakdown test you need an air compressor (a small one would do) and the actual leakdown tester.
For a compression test all you need is a compression tester (around $60 or so for a cheap one)
especially zeeman.. big time queer.
Anyways, to do a leakdown test you need an air compressor (a small one would do) and the actual leakdown tester.
For a compression test all you need is a compression tester (around $60 or so for a cheap one)
09-Feb-2008, 11:16 AM
#4
Ya I bought a compression tester from crappy tire for $30, waiting for a nice day.
As for the leakdown test, i have an air compressor, so I'll see if I can build one from the parts list above.
Who knows how to get the piston to Top Dead Center? The old screwdriver trick? But What do you turn to move the piston?
As for the leakdown test, i have an air compressor, so I'll see if I can build one from the parts list above.
Who knows how to get the piston to Top Dead Center? The old screwdriver trick? But What do you turn to move the piston?
10-Feb-2008, 05:12 AM
#5
Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 73
Ya I bought a compression tester from crappy tire for $30, waiting for a nice day.
As for the leakdown test, i have an air compressor, so I'll see if I can build one from the parts list above.
Who knows how to get the piston to Top Dead Center? The old screwdriver trick? But What do you turn to move the piston?
As for the leakdown test, i have an air compressor, so I'll see if I can build one from the parts list above.
Who knows how to get the piston to Top Dead Center? The old screwdriver trick? But What do you turn to move the piston?
Turn the crank pulley with a socket and ratchet and watch the screwdriver as it tops out.
Check to see that you are on the compression stroke of each cylinder you are testing.
Last edited by nsxvtec; 10-Feb-2008 at 05:15 AM.
13-Feb-2008, 05:31 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pfaff
Posts: 1,560
The firing order is 1-4-3-2. TDC (the white mark) is the compression stroke for cylinder 1 (closest to the timing belt). Turn the crank in the direction of engine rotation (counter clockwise) until number 4 reaches TDC and so on...
usually when i do this at work i just connect the leakdown tester and turn the crank untill i get it right lol. doesnt take that long..
13-Feb-2008, 05:44 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 910
After the exhaust stroke is the intake stroke
SUCK QUISH BANG BLOW
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-z-R...eature=related
SUCK QUISH BANG BLOW
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-z-R...eature=related
13-Feb-2008, 05:59 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pfaff
Posts: 1,560
what the **** are you talking about?
You said "when the intake valves close is your compression stroke"
All I said was that it could be the exhaust stroke as well... All I'm saying was your method is pretty ****ing silly and your explanation was even worse.
You said "when the intake valves close is your compression stroke"
All I said was that it could be the exhaust stroke as well... All I'm saying was your method is pretty ****ing silly and your explanation was even worse.
14-Feb-2008, 05:36 PM
#15
Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 73
Trace or Check the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire back to the distributor.
No. 1 cylinder is the one closest to the left side of your car ( standing looking in the engine bay it is on your right side where the pulleys and belts are.) Make a note of which wire it is and where the Distrib. rotor position is/will be when the No. 1 cylinder fires.
Now rotate your engine via the crank pulley with a 19mm. socket and ratchet in an anticlockwise direction (standing by the left fender looking in at your crankshaft pulley, you are turning it to your left.
You will see when the dist. rotor lines up with the position on the dist. cap for the no. 1 cylinder. The marks on the crank pulley if you can see them will also be near the pointer on the timing belt / water pump cover. and ratchet.
If the valve cover is off it is easier to see as you will see the valves move as they open and close. With your long, long screwdriver in the spark plug hole you will see it move up as the piston comes up approaching Top Dead Center.
With No. 1 Cyl. at TDC you might want to hold the ratchet handle in position after you have attached the leakdown tester. This will stop the crank from turning any further, apply compressed air, set your gauge and check the reading. also listen to hear where the air is escaping from, intake, exhaust, crankcase etc. repeat for the other cylinders etc.
A few other ways to get to this point, this is just one of them.
This is all assuming pre-K series Honda civic motor.
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/
Download the service manual which will assist you in detail with pics, etc. how to go about most of this stuff.
No. 1 cylinder is the one closest to the left side of your car ( standing looking in the engine bay it is on your right side where the pulleys and belts are.) Make a note of which wire it is and where the Distrib. rotor position is/will be when the No. 1 cylinder fires.
Now rotate your engine via the crank pulley with a 19mm. socket and ratchet in an anticlockwise direction (standing by the left fender looking in at your crankshaft pulley, you are turning it to your left.
You will see when the dist. rotor lines up with the position on the dist. cap for the no. 1 cylinder. The marks on the crank pulley if you can see them will also be near the pointer on the timing belt / water pump cover. and ratchet.
If the valve cover is off it is easier to see as you will see the valves move as they open and close. With your long, long screwdriver in the spark plug hole you will see it move up as the piston comes up approaching Top Dead Center.
With No. 1 Cyl. at TDC you might want to hold the ratchet handle in position after you have attached the leakdown tester. This will stop the crank from turning any further, apply compressed air, set your gauge and check the reading. also listen to hear where the air is escaping from, intake, exhaust, crankcase etc. repeat for the other cylinders etc.
A few other ways to get to this point, this is just one of them.
This is all assuming pre-K series Honda civic motor.
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/
Download the service manual which will assist you in detail with pics, etc. how to go about most of this stuff.
Last edited by nsxvtec; 15-Feb-2008 at 09:42 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
imported_mikepasini
Honda Civic Performance - JDM Discussion
9
30-Apr-2006 03:24 AM
imported_2join performance
Honda Civic Performance - JDM Discussion
12
11-Aug-2005 04:37 PM
