tuttle

Having an issue and was wondering if you guys had any ideas. When I start the car it is revving itself, it starts at about 1800RPM and rev's up to 2800 RPM. It will continually do this..

D.T.P

Sounds like IAC valve needs cleaning.

tuttle

Weird thing is that's what I did yesterday, i'll give it another shot though

tuttle

Cleaned it and reinstalled but to no avail, would an MIL come on if the IACV was bad? I have no MIL's on...next step (even though it costs $300) would be to replace it?

MPR

What is a "MIL"? Never heard that abreviation before...

Do you mean CEL? (check engine light)

tuttle

malfunction indicator light

tuttle

After replacing the idle air control valve the car starts and goes right up to 2500 RPM and then idles around 1200. If I put my foot on the gas it will rev but then will continue to rev itself like before

tuttle

It ended up throwing 2 codes, P1505 and P0505 which both seem to be idle control related. Still figuring out why, feel free to drop by any suggestions i'll let you know how it goes

chris_v2

Post what those code names (i'm too lazy to search it)... and what vehicle. I'll tell you what your problem is. If I don't see your post, PM me to remind me.

chris_v2

Actually I'm pretty sure 505 in an IACV open circuit. P1505 means the samething, it's just a manufacturer specific code.

Key on, engine off.. unplug the IACV connector, you have two pins. One should have battery voltage, the other should have ground.

Remove the IACV, check the resistance of the motor windings itself. I believe it should be around 13-16ohms.. but you might want to double-check.

tuttle

Thanks Chris, got pretty dark so I will check that tomorrow.

It's actually starting pretty good now, idling at around 8-900 RPMs. When I hit the accelerator in park the RPMs go up but don't come back down all the way and stay around 1500-1800RPM. Sounds like it could be the throttle position sensor?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

when the engine is cold the idle should be around 1500-1800rpms. This is to help the engine reach normal operating temperature quickly.

Now if you're still having this problem when the engine is at normal operating temp, it could definately still be an IACV problem. I've seen a million civics with faulty IACV's not throw a code for it.

tuttle

I replaced the IACV, it idles fine now until I hit the accelerator, it will go down in RPMs to around 1800 and then continue to rev itself for a bit up to 25-2800 RPMs. It will then continue to idle around 1800-2000 RPMs.

chris_v2

If you have a p0505, you have an IACV electrical problem. This needs to be repaired before anything else.

tuttle

Could the MAP sensor be causing an issue with the idle air control valve as well?

It threw error code P1129 today which is:

MAP SENSOR SIGNAL HIGHER THAN EXPECTED

tuttle

I actually I have a feeling it might be an issue with a vacuum leak around the intake manifold, going to check a bit more into that tomorrow

ol Dusty

iTrader: (2)

Check for leaks, but like Chris V2 said you need to rectify the IAC electrical issue first. I'd clear the codes first and see if they come back. You may have caused the code yourself if you unplugged the sensor while the keys were still in the ON position or the motor was running. Same with the MAP. I don't know what you did or not, just saying as a possibility to the cause of the codes, which is the hard part to proper diagnostics.

l.d.forget

if your having a bouncing idle it could also be a vaccume leak.

tuttle

Well fixed that issue, the MAP sensor was causing issues.

Ran fine, had it in the driveway idling for about 5-10 minutes and then the car totally lost power and died. Didn't sputter or make any noise, just lost power and died. Right now it has no power at all...

tuttle

Pretty sure I have that problem nailed down as well, the connection to the battery with the fuse was worn down and broke from being taken off and put on so many times, messed around with it a bit and got power again. Going to get a replacement tomorrow.