Meticulous_Guy

Hey All,

So I picked up an B16a2 engine complete with mounts, axels, intake, exhaust, dizzy, and wiring.

I changed out the mounts for my EG mounts as some did not fit.

The problem is the wiring harness.

I have researched the crap outta this problem and still come up with a problem.

I'm told the OBD1 wiring harness will work but the dizzy, injectors and alternator do not line up.

So I decided to lookup the wiring diagram for the OBD2 and OBD1 dizzy and cut in the wires I could. I'm left with one black wire with a stripe.

There is also a plug at the front of the tranny with 2 12awg or 14awg (larger diameter) wires. What would that have plugged into?

Lastly, the Crank Position Sensor. I have a P72 OBD1 ECU that can be programmed for the engine, so found that I don't need to hook up the Crank Position Sensor, is this correct?

Any information would help out greatly. I'm currently stuck at the moment.

Thanks!

jdmanglerking

for the obd1 to obd2 thing just get a dizzy and alternater from a obd1 engine,(ls or any other b series obd1 engines) andthey are just plug in and play

Meticulous_Guy

Just an update. So soon eh? ahah ya. I cut the OBD2 plugs for both the injectors and dizzy. Looked through the wiring diagram, spliced and wired them in. Had to find the ignition wire but everything worked out. The engine turned over and ran nicely after making a custom hydro transmission line. Well, I shouldn't say everything worked out...

My rpm gauge does not work.

What could this be caused from? Is the plug for the transmission the one that senses rpm speed and what not from the transmission? I don't have the axels in as of yet but I would assume the gauge cluster would still show rpm's... ?

I'm going to look through the wiring harness tomorrow for the instrument wiring diagram and trace wires but for now it's late enough. I'll check back in tomorrow.

EKstallion

First off I apologies for sounding like a ***** but lets think of where RPM could come from:

Transmission - This would mean that your transmission could never spin faster than the motor therefore you would have a single speed transmission. Every time you select a higher gear your transmission output shaft is spinning at a higher speed. If you thought it could be off of the input shaft what would happen when you put the clutch peddle down at idle and revved the car? You would see no increase on your tach because the input shaft wouldn't be spinning faster as it is disconnected from the flywheel.

Dizzy - Due to the fact that Honda distributors have an extensive amount of complexity and number of sensors in the dizzy this would be the first place to check. The distributor has a cam position sensor, crank position sensor, and a number of different things. Reading rpm off of one of these would be the most logical since it is always reading the actual number of revolutions of either the cams or the crank.

The right answer is the Distributor - that's were you get your tach signal from.

Meticulous_Guy

Haha ya I figured it out 1/2 an hour after I went back to the shop.

There's a plug with a larger black wire with a yellow stripe, along with a blue wire. I looked through the wiring diagram again and found that the black wire with the yellow stripe is the ignition which I temporarly wired to test, and the blue wire is ... for the gauge cluster ahah.

With the OBD2 wiring harness to the Dizzy there is 9 wires, the OBD1 Dizzy wiring harness has only 8 so I was left with the thin black wire with a yellow stripe. I jumped a wire between that remaining wire and the thick black wire with the yellow stripe and that solved the ignition wire issue.

But there was still one wire that ended on the input side of the Dizzy clip. It did not have a wire from the out side if you will... and it was blue so I found it on the wiring diagram, jumped a wire to the remaining blue wire on the clip and voila! RPM and Speedo works again!