NICEEE I could imagine how much of a difference that would have made. So it is possible to use just the Intake cam from the itr? What worries me in this part is detonation for some strange reason. I have no clue lol. But i know it would be cheaper for me to just get the itr cam. But would it be as reliable as it was before???

yes you can use just the intake cam. stick with the 8k b16 redline and you'll be fine. it's the most reliable setup as you are using a factory part but man does it make a difference. why would you be worried about detonation, just use what you should be running anyways, 91.

As long as the installation is done properly and it has been tuned by a knowledgable tuner, it will be just fine.

Tune is key!!!

hahaha cool man I believe you. Well im guessing Im worrying about detonation because I never used two different set of cams together. Especially because I never did anything really to the car but cold air, msd, and exhaust. But the car runs perfect. Im gonna try that set up with just the intake cam in a few weeks and let you know how it goes bro. The shitty part about this is my car is in the Bahamas and I am in Canada lol. So Im also looking for a low priced reliable low mileage honda up here to build. preferably a dohc vtec. Gonna see what its like on the Canadian Highways!!!! But you guys polices here are shitty man. They are everywhere.

Okay well I have a friend who is very knowlegeable about the setup so he would be able to fix it right with a little bit of my help. In what way can i tune it though? I do not have an aftermarket ecu or vafc so I am just relying on stock settings...

you don't need an aftermarket ECU or vafc.

you just need chipped obd1 (92-95) ecu and your tuner will create a "chip" for your ecu.

if you're car is NOT already obd1, they make conversion harnesses to convert to obd1. If the cars obd2 its as easy as getting the conversion harness and plugging in the ecu. If the car is obd0 then you'll need to also change the distributor to an obd1 distributor in order for the obd1 ecu to work in your car.

you're stock fuel injection system will handle it fine. no need to spend money where it isn't needed.

i've found the best im for the b16 is a portmatched p30. the formula is lightest flywheel possible and only add the best tq producing parts. vibrant 4-2-1 j spec, 3" sri w/stack & filter, itr/ctr cams (slap a set of gsr inners on the exhaust side and i'm pretty sure its the itr yellow/green full set) or bc3+/stg 1.5 cams only (chromoly retainers & springs with moderate seat pressure), 2.5" catback, mill the head 0.20-0.30", degree the motor, then call Zeeman. ur b16 won't feel like a 1.6L afterwards, will net mild 1.8L tq, and produce a 77mm tq curve from 6-8.5k

Wow that sounds like a killer set up right there.

i do like to proposed setup above but wouldn't be using the lightest possible flywheel. A good setup would be around 12 pds or even lighten your stock unit to around 14 pds same as a type r. drivability becomes an issue around town with a super light flywheel like a 8 pd unit. lets be realistic here though. to be perfectly honest with you a b16 is not the motor to start ripping into to build na monster anyways. it seems to me you are looking for bang for the buck, picking up a few extra horse while maintaining reliability and not emptying your wallet. you start ripping apart a motor to mill a head and what not geez just go pick up a b18c (which are dirt cheap these days), convert to obd1 and call it a day.....

Boostjunkie33 you're absolutely right. It is all about the best bang.Maybe, Im thinking my next setup will be a b18c hatchback which I will build up here in Canada. If anything I will try what you suggested with the ITR intake camshaft and work with that for right now in my b16. Im kinda tired of the lazy vtec of the stock b16 cams anyway lol. Maybe a better kick and a few more lbs ft of torque wld make me fly past these other stock b16's. :)

well 1st gen b16's had horrible cams, the worst of all b-series vtecs. i suspect you will be blown away with the results. I know i was shocked at the difference just the intake cam made. let us know how it goes....

if you want bang for buck n/a is a waste of time, especially on a b16. Been there done that lol....now my car is boosted.

Alright man sure thing thanks for the useful info guy. BTW if you guys come across any good hondas to build for around 2k give me a shout! peacee! (y)

Okay well on to a new topic lol. B16 boost? Is it reliable? Is it worth the trouble? And what must be done to give you that tire spinning power at 30 mph and reliability?

lol.....the truth has spoken

OP you don't really need to do anything.
You will need:
fuel injectors
Fuel pump
Good clutch (like stage2+)
Recommended 2.75"-3" exhaust all way back
Some accessories like a boost gauge and wideband is also useful
Then a full turbo kit which would be:
Manifold
Turbo
Wastegate (depending on whether the turbo is internally or externally gated)
Downpipe
Dumptube (if eternal wastegate)
All piping from intake-intercooler-turbo
Intercooler (front/side mount doesn't matter both will work but front mount is better)
Oil lines
Coolant lines (depending on turbo)
Blow off valve or diverter valve
Boost controller
Lots of vacuum lines and T's

I may be forgeting few things here and there but that should be about everything.
Once its installed then a proper tune is absolutely critical. Now the whole issue with reliability, as previously said with your cam question, tune is the most important part. You can run a motor under heavy boost making 270whp and be safe or you could blow the motor with 160whp. So after everything is set and done, invest some money in some good software, that will determin how reliable the setup will be.
Stock b16 as long as its healthy can make 270whp-280whp safe. So if you are looking for bang for the buck, you'd spend a lot less on turbo setup than if you were to achieve such numbers going the naturally aspirated route.

There is a lot and I mean a LOT of info on b16 turbo setups online, just do some research.

GL

Okay that sounds cool man, would there be any internals that I would have to look at investing in if I want to run over 15psi? say.. lower compression pistons and stronger rods? I know the stock crank is capable of extraordinary stress so I wont go that far. In that case what would be the cheapest but just as reliable pistons and rods?

@xsi:
block Guard recommended. Low/dished piston recommended. Stronger Rods, bigger injectors (size depends on power required). Tune is a must. 15psi doens't actually say much, because there's many sizes of turbos. MAP Sensor, 3bar usually, Hondata makes a direct bolt on, I think it's 4 bar.

there's a large list, and most depends on the power and reliablity you want. I have a B20VTEC Turbo build for my CRX if you search my threads.

Im looking at your thread right now and all I have to say is wow lol. You must have invested a whole car in that engine alone. Holy ****. Must be really fast.