b16a 2nd gen head removal
 

Ok so about 2 to 3 weeks ago i assumed i blew my motor but i wasnt 100% sure. So i took all the plugs out and found cylinder #2 plug was demolished cause of pre-ignition. This is what the plug looked like:
http://www.garbee.net/~cabell/sparkplugs/27.jpg


2 to 3 weeks have passed and ive been driving my winter beater which is quite embarassing to drive but it gives me 600km to the tank. lol So last night i started to work on the motor. I drained all the fluids and removed my intake manifold and the exhaust manifold.
I know i will be replacing the head studs with ARP and im replacing the valve stem seals and the head gasket aswell and oh the cam seal cause it was already leaking.
Now my question is when i get the head off, what else should be replaced?

Here is a link if some of you might be think of doing this one day.B16A Head Removal Part I

Jeez man....what the heck happened? Were you running 87 octane and beating the living snot out of it? lol

How many km's were on that motor? I'm interested to see what you find when you crack her open.

Keep us posted.

spoon head gasket

-Shave the head for more compression
-Titainium valve springs/retainers
-P&P

I'd save the money on the P&P becuase for 90% of the engines out there its overkill, these heads flow well enough for pretty much any street setup you could build. If a good P&P was only $300 i'd say go for it, but its a lot more than that and the money could be well spent elsewhere.

I say shave it down .030" (raises the compression up to roughly 11:1) and run some ITR or BC3+ cams (mild cams), combined with some decent bolt-ons and tuning you'll see a nice little increase from that little bit of work.

I was using 91oct the whole time. Im wondering if it was my timing cause out on the back of my rear bumper, it started to turn black and had spots of black dots as if i was running rich.
Ive got some Crane cams stg.1 and spring and retainers aswell new. If i use these, should i replace the valves aswell or are the stock valves good enough? Well i was thinking of the P&P but i really dont want to do more work to this head thats not really needed. My main main priority is to fix this and replace whats really needed to work properly. I'd rather get the ENDYN head that Lietner mention in the other thread rather than doing it to this one.

Daniel , save your money,you don't need valves, unless you get oversized, and then a P&P head. your build looks mild buddy, lol

p&p head is waste of money

Not if you can do it your self.

For a b series head you don't have to go crazy on it. Like zeeman said, they flow really well from the factory. You can hit the few spots that need improvement and be done with it while it's off the block.

Also they don't need to be "polished" either. Polishing or smoothing the surface after porting can actually hurt the flow and hinder proper atomisation of the air fuel mixture.

Polishing isn't smoothing...
Cylinder head porting - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
There's a VERY awesome magazine I found at Shoppers, I would check it out, called Project Car. They have 11 articles so far, and produce them Quarterly. I have the elevnth, and it does a LS/vtec build. Parts they used, that will apply to you:
Well SHI7 I let the magazine in the car... using it this weekend lol.
Head Gasket, Valve Seals, Valve cover seal, Assembly Lube, Possibly intake gasket (hondata) & Header/Exhaust Gasket. You can check ebay for engine rebuild kits. Very Helpful.
Adios!

I wouldn't be surprised if you need a new valve or 2...with your plug looking like that you probably burnt a valve too

I wonder if your going to need a rebuild with scored cylinder walls?

Thats exactly what i was thinking aswell. Ill find out by this weekend if i need a new long block.

I would highly recommend NOT P&P'ing a head yourself. Chances are that you'll do more harm than good. Porting honda heads isn't all about going in there and making everything (the ports) bigger or smoother/shinnier. Its more about paying attention to some specific areas (short radius turn, valve seat, etc etc) and verifying that all of the cylinders all flow the same CFM, something that CAN NOT be done at home in your garage.

There is a lot of good info the endyn site about porting the different honda heads.

Well i finished taking the head out today and well cylinder #2 valve was broken and missing a piece. It was the exhaust valve that was broken. So i checked the cylinder and the piston and i dont see any damage what so ever to the block so im assuming the piece that broke went out of the exhaust manifold. I looked at the catalytic and i see some specs and i think its the debris from the valve and the spark plug hopefully.

Now i was doing a rough estimate how much i would need to fix the head and i think im better off getting the ENDYN head that has all the eternals. Would i be able to use that on my stock block?

I wasn't implying that one would simply take a dremmel with a carbide bit and go to town. That would be a HUGE mistake.

If you know what you're doing and have the right tools/equipment, you CAN do it from home in your garage.

Obviously most people do not, and cannot.

If I were building my own head, I would build my own flow bench (not that hard), research meticulously on the topic and people who have done it before, and do it myself.

Is there any way of checking if my piston or the walls got damaged? Could i spray some carb cleaner on the piston to clean it up a bit or is this a no-no? The reason why i ask cause it has oil on it and im hoping the piston rings ddnt get damaged or need replacing without taking the block apart. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

And ill have pics up by this evening hopefully.

Well here the pics of the engine and head. What are your thoughts guys.

http://s575.photobucket.com/albums/ss192/Luv2xlr8_ej8/

Ouch.

How many km's were on this motor and what kind of life did it have (was it abused)?

It was abused and for km's it probably had 70,000 to 75,000kms. Got it off a front clip of a jdm Del Sol but for some reason i think the person that installed it had changed the head on me. There were some bolts that were overly tight in there like the cam caps and also some markings were in there that i think the Honda assembly woudnt have done it. Makes me wonder.
What i really wnat to know is if the block looks good and reusable and is there a way of cleaning the piston that has oil on it without removing the the whole piston itself.