98 Civic CX Overheating issue
16-Sep-2008, 10:06 AM
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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98 Civic CX Overheating issue
Hi All,
I've tried searching this forum to see if I could find the answer to my problem, but couldn't find anyone with the exact same problem. Anyway, here it goes:
On Saturday, I was driving around running errands and all was fine with my car. I pull into my driveway to unload some stuff from the car while the car was still running. I heard the radiator fan turn on as usual when the car warms up, but I noticed the fan was running longer than normal. Usually the fan comes on for a few seconds then shuts off. This day it kept running! When I looked at the temp gauge, it was all the way on hot! I immediately shut the car off and popped the hood. I instantly noticed the coolant in the reservoir was empty!
I refilled the reservoir and left the car to cool down for an hour or so. I then started the car again to see if I could replicate the problem. As expected it overheated again and the reservoir went pretty empty. I noticed some white smoke coming from the exhaust, but because it was a rainy humid day, it's tough to tell if it's out of the ordinary. I refilled the reservoir and parked the car and left it.
Then on Monday I decided to do some thorough testing. I first checked under the car to see if any coolant had leaked. The ground was dry. I checked the reservoir, and it was full. No apparent leaks in the rad. I changed my timing belt and water pump last year. I then started the car and took it for a spin to warm it up. While driving, the car stayed at the perfect temperature. I then brought it home and let it idle. The car started to heat up and the rad fan came on. It kept spinning and wouldn't turn off. I checked the reservoir and it was still full with coolant. I did see some white smoke out the exhaust again. When I hit the gas while in neutral, the temperature started to drop down to normal and the rad fan shuts off. But soon after I stop revving the engine, it gets hot again, the rad fan kicks in and doesn't turn off.
I've been trying to research the problem, and I've read it could be either the thermostat or head gasket. My mechanic agrees with me as well (although he hasn't seen the car yet, he's only heard my story). I'm thinking thermostat because when I hit the gas, I believe it's forcing coolant into the engine through the defective thermostat. The white smoke out the exhaust is making me think it's the head gasket. Ever since I topped up the reservoir with coolant on Sat, I've never had to refill it since. There were no leaks on the ground or anything. I'm stumped!
As a side note, my car sounded like it was misfiring when I started the car cold. It was happening for the past month or so, but now it doesn't seem to be doing that anymore.
Any help is definitely appreciated!
I've tried searching this forum to see if I could find the answer to my problem, but couldn't find anyone with the exact same problem. Anyway, here it goes:
On Saturday, I was driving around running errands and all was fine with my car. I pull into my driveway to unload some stuff from the car while the car was still running. I heard the radiator fan turn on as usual when the car warms up, but I noticed the fan was running longer than normal. Usually the fan comes on for a few seconds then shuts off. This day it kept running! When I looked at the temp gauge, it was all the way on hot! I immediately shut the car off and popped the hood. I instantly noticed the coolant in the reservoir was empty!
I refilled the reservoir and left the car to cool down for an hour or so. I then started the car again to see if I could replicate the problem. As expected it overheated again and the reservoir went pretty empty. I noticed some white smoke coming from the exhaust, but because it was a rainy humid day, it's tough to tell if it's out of the ordinary. I refilled the reservoir and parked the car and left it.
Then on Monday I decided to do some thorough testing. I first checked under the car to see if any coolant had leaked. The ground was dry. I checked the reservoir, and it was full. No apparent leaks in the rad. I changed my timing belt and water pump last year. I then started the car and took it for a spin to warm it up. While driving, the car stayed at the perfect temperature. I then brought it home and let it idle. The car started to heat up and the rad fan came on. It kept spinning and wouldn't turn off. I checked the reservoir and it was still full with coolant. I did see some white smoke out the exhaust again. When I hit the gas while in neutral, the temperature started to drop down to normal and the rad fan shuts off. But soon after I stop revving the engine, it gets hot again, the rad fan kicks in and doesn't turn off.
I've been trying to research the problem, and I've read it could be either the thermostat or head gasket. My mechanic agrees with me as well (although he hasn't seen the car yet, he's only heard my story). I'm thinking thermostat because when I hit the gas, I believe it's forcing coolant into the engine through the defective thermostat. The white smoke out the exhaust is making me think it's the head gasket. Ever since I topped up the reservoir with coolant on Sat, I've never had to refill it since. There were no leaks on the ground or anything. I'm stumped!
As a side note, my car sounded like it was misfiring when I started the car cold. It was happening for the past month or so, but now it doesn't seem to be doing that anymore.
Any help is definitely appreciated!
16-Sep-2008, 12:25 PM
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: M.I.S.S.
Posts: 805
When my headgasket went, it was similar to this. I pulled in for gas one time and everything was fine, but as I waited to get back into traffic, the engine was getting very hot. Once I started driving again, it acted normal. Eventually the whole thing gave in, and it was HOT all the time. Lots of white smoke, and running sluggishly. Eventually the head warped from being driven hot. Sucked.
So my vote is for headgasket. Replace the WP and T-stat at the same time to be safe.
So my vote is for headgasket. Replace the WP and T-stat at the same time to be safe.
16-Sep-2008, 01:02 PM
#6
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Hamilton, ON
Posts: 413
I had a similar problem with my car ... (99 EK HB) however it happened during winter months. The way i found out it was when i turned on the heat in the car during winter and it wasn't hot enough ... now the engine temp was always constant ... so i opened the hood to find out i was out of coolant in the reservoir ... and after further research i found the leak at the top radiator and just replaced it ...
but the temp was contstant even though i had a leaking radiator, prolly cuz it was winter and the engine was cool enough when i was driving ...
but the temp was contstant even though i had a leaking radiator, prolly cuz it was winter and the engine was cool enough when i was driving ...
16-Sep-2008, 02:41 PM
#7
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 10
When my headgasket went, it was similar to this. I pulled in for gas one time and everything was fine, but as I waited to get back into traffic, the engine was getting very hot. Once I started driving again, it acted normal. Eventually the whole thing gave in, and it was HOT all the time. Lots of white smoke, and running sluggishly. Eventually the head warped from being driven hot. Sucked.
So my vote is for headgasket. Replace the WP and T-stat at the same time to be safe.
So my vote is for headgasket. Replace the WP and T-stat at the same time to be safe.
I'm having the t-stat changed tomorrow evening....but what's WP??
16-Sep-2008, 03:52 PM
#10
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UPDATE:
I just drove home from work flawlessly, no problems. It was a lot of stop and go as well, but the temperature remained where it should. The radiator fan didn't have any opportunities to turn on on the drive home. When I got home, I checked the fluid reservoir and it hasn't moved as well...no fluid missing....
I just drove home from work flawlessly, no problems. It was a lot of stop and go as well, but the temperature remained where it should. The radiator fan didn't have any opportunities to turn on on the drive home. When I got home, I checked the fluid reservoir and it hasn't moved as well...no fluid missing....
16-Sep-2008, 03:52 PM
#11
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pfaff
Posts: 1,560
Okay just a few points I'd like to state before I attempt to diagnose.
1) when you make a thread like this try to cut out as many un-necessary things as possible. Just try to get to the point because usually I just skip on real long threads.
2) don't start changing parts just because somebody here says "my car did this, it was a headgasket". I'm not saying that you are going to do this, but most people do and it really annoys me. I dont know why.. lol
Anyways.. when you intially refilled the coolant, was it JUST for the resevoir? Or did you fill up the radiator as well? If you refilled the rad, how much did you put in? If it was more than 1/4 of a litre I like to bleed the coolant again (just let it run with the rad cap off, heater fan on max).
If you suspect its a headgasket issue, let the car run and take the rad cap off, what happens? What is the coolant doing? Any smoke? what does it smell like? Or you can do a compression test or a coolant system pressure test. These both wil give you a good indication if it might be a HG or not.
If not, it could be a weak thermostat. When it overheats, feel both rad hoses.. are they both at the same temperature? Is one colder?
Do these tests then get back to me.
Btw, sorry for my poor grammar/spelling I just got back from work.
1) when you make a thread like this try to cut out as many un-necessary things as possible. Just try to get to the point because usually I just skip on real long threads.
2) don't start changing parts just because somebody here says "my car did this, it was a headgasket". I'm not saying that you are going to do this, but most people do and it really annoys me. I dont know why.. lol
Anyways.. when you intially refilled the coolant, was it JUST for the resevoir? Or did you fill up the radiator as well? If you refilled the rad, how much did you put in? If it was more than 1/4 of a litre I like to bleed the coolant again (just let it run with the rad cap off, heater fan on max).
If you suspect its a headgasket issue, let the car run and take the rad cap off, what happens? What is the coolant doing? Any smoke? what does it smell like? Or you can do a compression test or a coolant system pressure test. These both wil give you a good indication if it might be a HG or not.
If not, it could be a weak thermostat. When it overheats, feel both rad hoses.. are they both at the same temperature? Is one colder?
Do these tests then get back to me.
Btw, sorry for my poor grammar/spelling I just got back from work.
16-Sep-2008, 03:59 PM
#12
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 10
Okay just a few points I'd like to state before I attempt to diagnose.
1) when you make a thread like this try to cut out as many un-necessary things as possible. Just try to get to the point because usually I just skip on real long threads.
2) don't start changing parts just because somebody here says "my car did this, it was a headgasket". I'm not saying that you are going to do this, but most people do and it really annoys me. I dont know why.. lol
Anyways.. when you intially refilled the coolant, was it JUST for the resevoir? Or did you fill up the radiator as well? If you refilled the rad, how much did you put in? If it was more than 1/4 of a litre I like to bleed the coolant again (just let it run with the rad cap off, heater fan on max).
If you suspect its a headgasket issue, let the car run and take the rad cap off, what happens? What is the coolant doing? Any smoke? what does it smell like? Or you can do a compression test or a coolant system pressure test. These both wil give you a good indication if it might be a HG or not.
If not, it could be a weak thermostat. When it overheats, feel both rad hoses.. are they both at the same temperature? Is one colder?
Do these tests then get back to me.
Btw, sorry for my poor grammar/spelling I just got back from work.
1) when you make a thread like this try to cut out as many un-necessary things as possible. Just try to get to the point because usually I just skip on real long threads.
2) don't start changing parts just because somebody here says "my car did this, it was a headgasket". I'm not saying that you are going to do this, but most people do and it really annoys me. I dont know why.. lol
Anyways.. when you intially refilled the coolant, was it JUST for the resevoir? Or did you fill up the radiator as well? If you refilled the rad, how much did you put in? If it was more than 1/4 of a litre I like to bleed the coolant again (just let it run with the rad cap off, heater fan on max).
If you suspect its a headgasket issue, let the car run and take the rad cap off, what happens? What is the coolant doing? Any smoke? what does it smell like? Or you can do a compression test or a coolant system pressure test. These both wil give you a good indication if it might be a HG or not.
If not, it could be a weak thermostat. When it overheats, feel both rad hoses.. are they both at the same temperature? Is one colder?
Do these tests then get back to me.
Btw, sorry for my poor grammar/spelling I just got back from work.
When starting the thread, I was debating how much detail I should have. I decided to leave in as much detail because I've found in the past that other people have left things out that turned out to be an important part of the diagnosis.
Anyway, when I refilled the coolant, it was only to the backup reservoir, I never opened the rad cap for fear of it exploding hot coolant everywhere! Since refilling the backup reservoir a 2nd time, I haven't had to go back and refill.
I'll test out what you recommended wrt watching what the coolant does with the rad cap off. I'll also feel the 2 rad hoses and report back on their temperature.
Thanks!
16-Sep-2008, 04:41 PM
#13
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pfaff
Posts: 1,560
Well, before you do anything, remove the rad cap, fill it to the top and let it run with the rad cap off and heat and fan speed on full.
Let it run untill the cooling fan comes on (if it doesnt come on, shut off the heater fan, about after 10-15min and it should come on). This will ensure that the coolant is probably bleed and topped up.
I would then drive it and see if it happens again, if it does while it's overheating, feel both rad hoses! If its an normal temperature you won't notice any difference so it's crutical you do this test when its malfunctioning.
Hope this helps.
Let it run untill the cooling fan comes on (if it doesnt come on, shut off the heater fan, about after 10-15min and it should come on). This will ensure that the coolant is probably bleed and topped up.
I would then drive it and see if it happens again, if it does while it's overheating, feel both rad hoses! If its an normal temperature you won't notice any difference so it's crutical you do this test when its malfunctioning.
Hope this helps.
28-Sep-2008, 10:32 AM
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 10
Now a few weeks have past since I changed the t-stat and now I've got a slightly different variation to the same problem!
When idle, the car starts to overheat but I noticed this time the radiator fan never came on. I tested the fan by putting a jumper wire in the switch and the fan works...so this leads me to believe it's the fan switch that's the problem. Anyone know where I can get a new fan switch?
When idle, the car starts to overheat but I noticed this time the radiator fan never came on. I tested the fan by putting a jumper wire in the switch and the fan works...so this leads me to believe it's the fan switch that's the problem. Anyone know where I can get a new fan switch?
29-Sep-2008, 01:40 AM
#18
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 58
Hey, you should wire the fan to have it always on first, before replacing anything to see if it fixes your problem. I had the exact same problem, replaced the thermostat and it didnt do anything.
I just had the headgasket and WP and a few other things all replaced today. I took it on the highway and it seemed to be ok, the temp gauge was a little over 1/4 But i'll test it driving to work tomorrow
What should be the average temp anyway?
I just had the headgasket and WP and a few other things all replaced today. I took it on the highway and it seemed to be ok, the temp gauge was a little over 1/4 But i'll test it driving to work tomorrow
What should be the average temp anyway?
29-Sep-2008, 06:59 PM
#19
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 10
Hey, you should wire the fan to have it always on first, before replacing anything to see if it fixes your problem. I had the exact same problem, replaced the thermostat and it didnt do anything.
I just had the headgasket and WP and a few other things all replaced today. I took it on the highway and it seemed to be ok, the temp gauge was a little over 1/4 But i'll test it driving to work tomorrow
What should be the average temp anyway?
I just had the headgasket and WP and a few other things all replaced today. I took it on the highway and it seemed to be ok, the temp gauge was a little over 1/4 But i'll test it driving to work tomorrow
What should be the average temp anyway?
13-Oct-2008, 08:39 AM
#20
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 10
Quick question about bleeding the Radiator. Should the rad fluid always be right at the top of where the rad cap would cover it? And when you take off the rad cap, should I immediately see rad fluid at the top?
When I bleed the system, the rad fluid always goes up and down....meaning it'll be low, then all of a sudden the fluid would start to rise, and then it would go back down. I assume this is because of air bubbles escaping the system. But also, if the fluid is at the top, when the rad fan comes on, it goes right back down. Should I always make sure there's fluid sitting at the top to ensure the system was properly bled?
When I bleed the system, the rad fluid always goes up and down....meaning it'll be low, then all of a sudden the fluid would start to rise, and then it would go back down. I assume this is because of air bubbles escaping the system. But also, if the fluid is at the top, when the rad fan comes on, it goes right back down. Should I always make sure there's fluid sitting at the top to ensure the system was properly bled?
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