for the painters: What colours hide bondo more or less?
#1
for the painters: What colours hide bondo more or less?
For people who have done fibreglass work or bondo work which colours hide it best(say you put bondo on a hood and you paint it and you can see the circle of bondo), I kno it doesnt depend solely on the colour but im only asking colour thanks.
#4
there is also filler you get in a tube which is very fine. You put that over the bondo when done and it fills in all the little pits and edges left. Use primer as the bondo will soak up all the paint and make it look like A$$
#5
#7
often time my primer shows through, and i use both light whtie grey or reddish brown primer, multilayer painting will get rid of it but sometimes it sucks when it only shows a day or so later. i dont think it matters what kind of primer you use, its all the same to me in terms of showing through, its the basecoat that has the problems of being more translucsent
#8
ursthanr primer is now the industry standard. no one uses laquer primer except for cheap places cuz its cheap and dries fast.
if you use 2k1 primer you wont have any problems at all. and yes i use 2k1 on every paintjob. no such thing as regular **** if it comes in arosol cans it could be etching primer which will bite into the paint around it and is not recommended.
#9
often time my primer shows through, and i use both light whtie grey or reddish brown primer, multilayer painting will get rid of it but sometimes it sucks when it only shows a day or so later. i dont think it matters what kind of primer you use, its all the same to me in terms of showing through, its the basecoat that has the problems of being more translucsent
actually primer matters alot. they have primers that dont hide well and bleed through the paint. if you can see it through the paint after the complete job is done that means your primer is garbage. use brand name stuff by evercoat or dupont or even compact.
#13
epoxy and etch are two different types of primer.
etching primer is still used alot.
it all comes down to the type of finish, quality and price.
if budget is unlimited go with raw metal make all the bodywork strictly pure metal and then use epoxy as a sealer and then do your paintwork.
etching primer is still used alot.
it all comes down to the type of finish, quality and price.
if budget is unlimited go with raw metal make all the bodywork strictly pure metal and then use epoxy as a sealer and then do your paintwork.
#14
well it actually depends on how many coats you apply and what temperature your shop/garage is at. usually 1hr curing time for each coat and you should try and apply coats not right away but once the previous coat has flashed off (usually 10 -15mins between coats). some shops use a baker/heat lamp which you can bake your panel after all your coats have been applied for approx 10 mins on a half bake then another 10 on full bake , after that you can let cool and start sanding/prepping for paint.
some places that arent as quick paced refuse to use a baker/heat lamp tho. cause if not fully cured and you go sand then paint you can get the chemicals from you primer burning thru your paint giving you such a reaction where you get that ring around you body work.
also the above info i posted is using 3M products (what i always used at the shop anyways)
correct me if im wrong tho jay.
some places that arent as quick paced refuse to use a baker/heat lamp tho. cause if not fully cured and you go sand then paint you can get the chemicals from you primer burning thru your paint giving you such a reaction where you get that ring around you body work.
also the above info i posted is using 3M products (what i always used at the shop anyways)
correct me if im wrong tho jay.
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johnny23toronto
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17-Mar-2003 06:10 PM