Defining Details: Detailed
16-Jun-2009, 02:21 PM
#22
If it is etching in the clearcoat (again, hard to tell), then we MAY be able to help out depending on how deep it is...
16-Jun-2009, 02:39 PM
#24
18-Jun-2009, 06:42 PM
#25
2007 Roush 427R
Background: My clients 427R is a well kept car, and it shows; at first glance, the car is mint! But upon closer inspection (and under the scrutiny of 1000w of Halogen and LED) we found a different story... This QUICKLY developed from a maintenance detail into a full 2 and 3 step correction :hifive:
Products used:
Dawn dishsoap wash
Optimum No Rinse wash
Optimum Polish II
Meguiars M105
Optimum Finishing Polish
Obsessive Detail Glaze
Obsessive Detail Wet Wax
Meguiars Gel Tire Dressing
Obsessive Detail silk shine interior dressing
Equipment Used:
PC 7424 D/A Polisher
Lake Country Orange and white pads
1000w Halogens
LED light
Wet/Dry shopvac
Obsessive Details MF product applicators
Obsessive Details MF towels – assorted
Process:
With the client keeping his car in top notch condition all the time, not much prep was needed. The car is a weekend cruiser and is garage kept. The paint was clayed in the fall last year just before it was put away for the winter, and the paint was still very smooth so we got to skip that step
Car was washed down using Dawn dishsoap to strip all the wax currently on the car. The car was then sprayed down with Isopropyl Alcohol and water to remove any last bit of protection, in case the Dawn didn't get everything... Once we had a fresh canvas, it was time to get to work.
Started the polish process with Optimum Polish II on an orange pad, however the ford clear is pretty hard and it was not removing the defects to my liking. I stepped it up to the Meguiars M105 w/ White pad and we had success! The first stage of polishing was completed with M105 w/ white pad for defect removal, followed by a 2nd stage of Optimum Finishing Polish, used to remove the marring left by the more aggressive M105. The rear bumper required compounding using M105 + orange cutting pad to get the correction I was looking for (see pics below). It was then followed up with M105+white pad and Optimum Finishing Polish.
Once the polishing stages were complete, the car was pulled outside and given a final wash with Optimum No Rinse. The car was then dried using MF waffle weave towels, and crevices blown out with a blower.
The car was then rolled back inside, and received a layer of Obsessive Detail Wet Glaze, followed by a layer of Obsessive Detail Wet Wax. Interior was vacuumed, all dash / console dressed with Obsessive Detail Silk Shine, and gel dressing applied to the wheels. Then off we went to the local schoolyard for photos in the setting sun.
All in all, a rewarding days work Now onto what matters... THE PHOTOS
Hood Before:
Hood After
Driver side fender before:
Driver fender 50/50 polished:
Drivers door before:
Drivers door after:
Rear Bumper before - check out those dealer plate scratches :nervous2:
Rear bumper after:
Pre-LSP reflections:
All finished!
Thanks for looking! Many more to come...
Background: My clients 427R is a well kept car, and it shows; at first glance, the car is mint! But upon closer inspection (and under the scrutiny of 1000w of Halogen and LED) we found a different story... This QUICKLY developed from a maintenance detail into a full 2 and 3 step correction :hifive:
Products used:
Dawn dishsoap wash
Optimum No Rinse wash
Optimum Polish II
Meguiars M105
Optimum Finishing Polish
Obsessive Detail Glaze
Obsessive Detail Wet Wax
Meguiars Gel Tire Dressing
Obsessive Detail silk shine interior dressing
Equipment Used:
PC 7424 D/A Polisher
Lake Country Orange and white pads
1000w Halogens
LED light
Wet/Dry shopvac
Obsessive Details MF product applicators
Obsessive Details MF towels – assorted
Process:
With the client keeping his car in top notch condition all the time, not much prep was needed. The car is a weekend cruiser and is garage kept. The paint was clayed in the fall last year just before it was put away for the winter, and the paint was still very smooth so we got to skip that step
Car was washed down using Dawn dishsoap to strip all the wax currently on the car. The car was then sprayed down with Isopropyl Alcohol and water to remove any last bit of protection, in case the Dawn didn't get everything... Once we had a fresh canvas, it was time to get to work.
Started the polish process with Optimum Polish II on an orange pad, however the ford clear is pretty hard and it was not removing the defects to my liking. I stepped it up to the Meguiars M105 w/ White pad and we had success! The first stage of polishing was completed with M105 w/ white pad for defect removal, followed by a 2nd stage of Optimum Finishing Polish, used to remove the marring left by the more aggressive M105. The rear bumper required compounding using M105 + orange cutting pad to get the correction I was looking for (see pics below). It was then followed up with M105+white pad and Optimum Finishing Polish.
Once the polishing stages were complete, the car was pulled outside and given a final wash with Optimum No Rinse. The car was then dried using MF waffle weave towels, and crevices blown out with a blower.
The car was then rolled back inside, and received a layer of Obsessive Detail Wet Glaze, followed by a layer of Obsessive Detail Wet Wax. Interior was vacuumed, all dash / console dressed with Obsessive Detail Silk Shine, and gel dressing applied to the wheels. Then off we went to the local schoolyard for photos in the setting sun.
All in all, a rewarding days work Now onto what matters... THE PHOTOS
Hood Before:
Hood After
Driver side fender before:
Driver fender 50/50 polished:
Drivers door before:
Drivers door after:
Rear Bumper before - check out those dealer plate scratches :nervous2:
Rear bumper after:
Pre-LSP reflections:
All finished!
Thanks for looking! Many more to come...
Last edited by Defining Details; 18-Jun-2009 at 06:47 PM.
18-Jun-2009, 07:57 PM
#28
Here is a little info for you; the age of a car matters not in the least. The condition of the paint is what matters. I have seen Ferrari's stored in a bubble for 30 years and are in the same condition they were when they were purchased, and I have seen 8 month old Benz's look like the paint had been through a war (ahem, first post in this thread).
Pony up some moola and we'll get that ol' CRX polished up real nice and I post up the before and afters in here
21-Jun-2009, 11:43 PM
#31
2005 Mazda 6
This was a one-step polish and exterior detail; what a curveball this car was... Most of the car was a repaint, and pretty much each section was done by a different shop at a different time. Some area's corrected very nicely via single-step polish, while other sections laughed and said try again.
The car really did need a compound to get back up to my level of satisfaction, but the owner opted to just stick with the one step, even when I pointed out that several repainted sections had clears so hard that only a multi-step compound would put a dent in them. We ended up agreeing that I would finish out the car with a 1-step now, and we would book a full compound prior to winter.
Process was a 1-step polish using Optimum Polish II / Orange via PC. Overall, the vehicles finish improved dramatically however there were still plenty of RIDS and even a lot of of swirling left on a few of the repainted sections with nuclear-bomb proof clearcoat. Final steps were CG Butter Wax, Stoners Window, Stoners More Shine tire dressing.
FYI the work time on this car was 6 hours.
Before pics:
After pics:
This was a one-step polish and exterior detail; what a curveball this car was... Most of the car was a repaint, and pretty much each section was done by a different shop at a different time. Some area's corrected very nicely via single-step polish, while other sections laughed and said try again.
The car really did need a compound to get back up to my level of satisfaction, but the owner opted to just stick with the one step, even when I pointed out that several repainted sections had clears so hard that only a multi-step compound would put a dent in them. We ended up agreeing that I would finish out the car with a 1-step now, and we would book a full compound prior to winter.
Process was a 1-step polish using Optimum Polish II / Orange via PC. Overall, the vehicles finish improved dramatically however there were still plenty of RIDS and even a lot of of swirling left on a few of the repainted sections with nuclear-bomb proof clearcoat. Final steps were CG Butter Wax, Stoners Window, Stoners More Shine tire dressing.
FYI the work time on this car was 6 hours.
Before pics:
After pics:
23-Jun-2009, 09:22 AM
#35
-- site donator --
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: THE OAK
Posts: 10,423
As one who used to be clean **** when it came to his vehicle...It is rare to find someone who could make me say WOW when it comes to detailing . I have not seen any interior work , but your exterior and paint work makes me say ...WOW
23-Jun-2009, 09:29 AM
#36
The dead-pedal salt stain came out the next day; it was so bad, none of my chemical would break it up. The next day I had another detailer buddy bring over a custom concoction of all sorts of stuff, and after a few extractions it finally came out.
24-Jun-2009, 07:12 PM
#40
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Niagara Region
Posts: 63
Chris great work, especially for a PC? Ever since I got my Makita 9227C I haven't touched my UDM. Anyways I have OP, OC and the new OFP. Along with some Menz Power Finish and the M105. My Civic is that lovely bile yellow from 02 and I am finding it hard to see polish break down since it has no dark background for it to show through. How do you determine how long to buff on lighter paints? Also what lights are you using exactly? I have to get me some. I only do work for friends and family but I am striving to get better at it. I am not at your level my cars usually get some good comments.
Pat.
Pat.
