How-To: Head Unit Wiring/Harness
06-Jan-2004, 11:01 PM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Mississauga West Side
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How-To: Head Unit Wiring/Harness
Heres a How To I Designed tonight.
First off: How to remove the stock head unit
-Go to www.installdr.com and Look to see if they have the instructions for removing your stock head unit from there. If not theres a few other links lying around on the net, or you can visit the local forum for your car (if they have one) and hit up a How to on Removing the stock head unit (also if they have one)
Next step: Wiring it all
Step One:
Here is the stock wiring harness for your aftermarket deck and the coupler harness that connects to the stock wiring harnesss in your car, to save you a headache, and if you ever decide to sell the car you can swap the stock deck back in with no problems.
Grab a wire stripper and strip off good lengths on both ends of the harnesses, make sure not to nick any other part of the wire, but just the insulation at the end
Grab some heat shrink tubing and cut it into small pieces to cover over the bare connections when done. Slide the heat shrink over the bare wire and slide it down to the end, so it doesn't get hot when soldering.
Take the 2 ends of the wires that correspond (12v to 12v, Ground to Ground.. etc) and cross them at a 45 degree angle like such. Then twist the wire around each other making a secure interlock pattern until the end of the wire is reached. Trim off and excess wire that may start to go around the insulated portion of the wire.
This is what It should look like before the excess wire is trimmed. Note a secure and strong joint.
Once you have all the pieces connected properly its time to solder. Grab your favorite soldering iron (I like to use a 45 watt iron and some 60/40 solder) Make sure the tip is nice and hot, and touch it directly to the wire, then apply the solder to the wire untill it gets sucked into the wire and it is a nice shiny color. The wire has to be hot enough to melt the solder correctly or it will klump on top of the wire and your connection will be poor.
Once done, slide the heat shrink over the soldered areas and melt them with a lighter making sure not to burn the wire, or a heat gun
Once your all done I like to add some zip ties to the bundle to control the wires, and help eliminate any stress on the wires that may cause them to break or get snagged when hiding the bundle behind the dash.
Finished product
First off: How to remove the stock head unit
-Go to www.installdr.com and Look to see if they have the instructions for removing your stock head unit from there. If not theres a few other links lying around on the net, or you can visit the local forum for your car (if they have one) and hit up a How to on Removing the stock head unit (also if they have one)
Next step: Wiring it all
Step One:
Here is the stock wiring harness for your aftermarket deck and the coupler harness that connects to the stock wiring harnesss in your car, to save you a headache, and if you ever decide to sell the car you can swap the stock deck back in with no problems.
Grab a wire stripper and strip off good lengths on both ends of the harnesses, make sure not to nick any other part of the wire, but just the insulation at the end
Grab some heat shrink tubing and cut it into small pieces to cover over the bare connections when done. Slide the heat shrink over the bare wire and slide it down to the end, so it doesn't get hot when soldering.
Take the 2 ends of the wires that correspond (12v to 12v, Ground to Ground.. etc) and cross them at a 45 degree angle like such. Then twist the wire around each other making a secure interlock pattern until the end of the wire is reached. Trim off and excess wire that may start to go around the insulated portion of the wire.
This is what It should look like before the excess wire is trimmed. Note a secure and strong joint.
Once you have all the pieces connected properly its time to solder. Grab your favorite soldering iron (I like to use a 45 watt iron and some 60/40 solder) Make sure the tip is nice and hot, and touch it directly to the wire, then apply the solder to the wire untill it gets sucked into the wire and it is a nice shiny color. The wire has to be hot enough to melt the solder correctly or it will klump on top of the wire and your connection will be poor.
Once done, slide the heat shrink over the soldered areas and melt them with a lighter making sure not to burn the wire, or a heat gun
Once your all done I like to add some zip ties to the bundle to control the wires, and help eliminate any stress on the wires that may cause them to break or get snagged when hiding the bundle behind the dash.
Finished product
07-Jan-2004, 12:20 AM
#3
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Toronto
Posts: 9,255
Matt, you want a faster way to heat up the wire so the solder melts quicker?
Get the connection ready (the connection you made is called a "western union"), and then touch the solder to the iron tip to "tin" it....then put the wire connection on TOP of the iron tip. The extra solder on the iron will make the contact to the wire alot better, and transfer the heat alot faster.....the heat will also rise up to heat the wire even quicker. Then add more solder to the top of the connection. If the connection is hot enough, it will melt the soldier very quickly, and the soldier will "run" around and through the joint, and to the iron tip. Solder is attracted to heat.
Matt, you should get yourslf a pair of good wire strippers. They will do a much faster and neater job of stripping the wire jacket.....you also don't have to worry as much about knicking the wire either. P Auto has a set for cheap.....5 or 6 bucks I believe.
This is the kind I use.
I also have these, but I hardly ever use them.
If you have these, just toss them in the garbage.....they are not worth the $'s imo. They tend to "bend", and then makes stripping the wire even harder to do.
BTW, good write up.
If anyone wants a better close-up of the connection Matt made, click on the link. There are also 2 other connection types in that link......a rat tail, and what I call a "T" connetion.....but they call it a Tap joint.
http://www.grassroots.brunnet.net/gr...new_page_7.htm
The solder jobs in that link are poor imo. They should be shinny and not dull when you are finshed. Over time they will discolour a bit, but if they look like that right off the bat, that means the rosen evaperated too quickly from excessive heat, or you have a cold solder joint (which will eventually crack and loosen over time....which is bad.) It should look like the ones in Matt's picture.
Maybe in the summer, we should hold a solder connection clinic for those that want to learn how to do it. What do you think Matt?
Get the connection ready (the connection you made is called a "western union"), and then touch the solder to the iron tip to "tin" it....then put the wire connection on TOP of the iron tip. The extra solder on the iron will make the contact to the wire alot better, and transfer the heat alot faster.....the heat will also rise up to heat the wire even quicker. Then add more solder to the top of the connection. If the connection is hot enough, it will melt the soldier very quickly, and the soldier will "run" around and through the joint, and to the iron tip. Solder is attracted to heat.
Matt, you should get yourslf a pair of good wire strippers. They will do a much faster and neater job of stripping the wire jacket.....you also don't have to worry as much about knicking the wire either. P Auto has a set for cheap.....5 or 6 bucks I believe.
This is the kind I use.
I also have these, but I hardly ever use them.
If you have these, just toss them in the garbage.....they are not worth the $'s imo. They tend to "bend", and then makes stripping the wire even harder to do.
BTW, good write up.
If anyone wants a better close-up of the connection Matt made, click on the link. There are also 2 other connection types in that link......a rat tail, and what I call a "T" connetion.....but they call it a Tap joint.
http://www.grassroots.brunnet.net/gr...new_page_7.htm
The solder jobs in that link are poor imo. They should be shinny and not dull when you are finshed. Over time they will discolour a bit, but if they look like that right off the bat, that means the rosen evaperated too quickly from excessive heat, or you have a cold solder joint (which will eventually crack and loosen over time....which is bad.) It should look like the ones in Matt's picture.
Maybe in the summer, we should hold a solder connection clinic for those that want to learn how to do it. What do you think Matt?
07-Jan-2004, 12:29 AM
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Mississauga West Side
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thanks for the tips al, yeh I do have a few pairs of wire strippes, but IMO there garbage ones lol. I have those automatic sizing ones but they dont seem to work half the time.
I bought a good stripper/crimper its a Channel Lock for $25 but I hardly use it for some reason
as for the clinic, i think its a great idea, would show some people a great alternative instead of electrical tape and twisted wires
I bought a good stripper/crimper its a Channel Lock for $25 but I hardly use it for some reason
as for the clinic, i think its a great idea, would show some people a great alternative instead of electrical tape and twisted wires
07-Jan-2004, 02:02 AM
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 23,881
I wish more people would use them harnesses...people cuttin off the stock harness and then I gotta go in there re-splicing the wires together and then my adapter harnes is useless cuz there is no stock harness...why cant people spend the 10bucks and save all the damn headache?!?!
and then there wouldnt be people askin what wire is for what etc.
oh yea, good write up!!!
and then there wouldnt be people askin what wire is for what etc.
oh yea, good write up!!!
07-Jan-2004, 11:38 PM
#12
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Originally posted by sam
Thanks Aaron
Do you know of any store locally? I'm looking at close to 45 USD to get that. That's the same price as my HU basically!!!
Thanks Aaron
Do you know of any store locally? I'm looking at close to 45 USD to get that. That's the same price as my HU basically!!!
A few years back my buddy bought an OEM knockoff harness for a OEM Honda cd player that I was putting in another persons car. It worked just perfect and I think he paid $20-25 for it.
Might have been a fluke but I think some shops stock them.
07-Jan-2004, 11:50 PM
#14
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Mississauga West Side
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Originally posted by scarlemthug
Check out Future shop, Best buy or any local audio shop will have them for around $15.
Check out Future shop, Best buy or any local audio shop will have them for around $15.
I know the ones around here wont sell to you unless you get them to install your deck etc, then they will sell you the harness and kit in the package
07-Jan-2004, 11:55 PM
#15
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,461
Originally posted by loudsubz
Most FS or BB wont sell to the public the install kits and harnesses etc.
I know the ones around here wont sell to you unless you get them to install your deck etc, then they will sell you the harness and kit in the package
Most FS or BB wont sell to the public the install kits and harnesses etc.
I know the ones around here wont sell to you unless you get them to install your deck etc, then they will sell you the harness and kit in the package
booo!!
hmm.. yea, i really dont wanna splice directly into the stock harness.... guess i'll go shoppin as i get some time.
08-Jan-2004, 12:10 AM
#18
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Scarborough and Mississauga
Posts: 7,065
If your in sauga area check out Audio To go or any of the shops along dundas. If your heading to markham, if you wanna stop by go south on kennedy past KC and just a bit down you will see a country style i think.....in the same parking lot is Direct Audio, they sell the wiring harnesses im pretty sure. IF they dont have yours FS is across the street.
