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DIY: Cap & Rotar Replacement

Old 31-Jan-2007, 08:50 PM
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DIY: Cap & Rotar Replacement

Got this from Superhonda.com


The distributor's cap and rotor need to be replaced when the rotor and terminals in the cap have become worn and prevent enough electric charge to pass trough the spark plug wires to the spark plugs. This preventive maintenance will improve combustion and help your car feel "smoother" among other things. Note: the following procedure was performed on a 3rd gen integra but it will be similar on other hondas.

Materials: new cap and rotor from your local auto parts store (the cap normally comes with new retaining screws and a new seal, if it doesn't use your old ones).
Tools needed: phillips screwdriver, 8mm wrench, 10mm wrench, pliers(may not need this).


Step 1: This is not really necesary but to be safe I like to disconnect the battery, plus it resets your ECU. Use your 10mm wrench to losen the battery terminals (negative then positive) and disconnect them.


Step 2: Unplug the spark plug wires from the cylinder head (NOT the distributor!)


Step 3: Proceed to remove the distributor cap by unscrewing the retaining bolts with your phillips screwdriver.....


....or you can also use the 8mm wrench.


The lower bolt is kind of hard to get to so I took my intake tube off, this also gives you more room to work with.


After removing the cap you will see the ROTOR


Step 4: Under the rotor there is a screw, remove it (rotor has to be in a certain position to do this)....


....or if the rotor didn't "land" on the right position to unscrew it, or if you're like me and stripped it, brake the rotor off with some pliers, then you can get to the screw by removing the little cover with the spring, make sure you replace the cover afterwards.


I had to use a needle nose to loosen the stripped screw.
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Old 31-Jan-2007, 08:51 PM
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cautela12-07-2003, 05:27 AM
Step 5: Remove the rotor (or what's left of it) from the distributor shaft.


Step 6: Install new rotor, don't worry about messing up, it can only go in one way.

Step 7: Reinstall rotor screw.


NOTE: If you stripped your screw you're gonna have to improvise until you can get a replacement one. I used one of the new screws that came with the new cap (luckily it had the same threading), although is twice the lenght its working fine so far but I wouldn't recommend it, I don't know what can happen.

Step 8: Remove the old seal and replace with the new one.


Here is a comparison of the two caps, notice the worn terminals on the old cap.


Step 9: Relocate the spark plug wires on the new cap one by one in the same order as the old cap. These wires need to go in a specific sequence so if you removed them and don't know where they go refer to the picture below for the correct order. The correct firing order is 1-3-4-2 so starting clockwise from the bottom left of the cap is 1. On a SOHC motor the #1 is at the top left, same firing order.


Step 10: Install the new cap (tighten the screws hand tight, you don't want the plastic to break, but not loose either).


Step 11: Replace the spark plug wires on the engine. Here is the firing order for reference.


Step 12: Reinstall the battery cables (positive then negative), and all other equipment you may have taken off.

Step 13: Start your car and let it idle for a few minutes.

~THE END~
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Old 31-Jan-2007, 11:11 PM
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Nice DIY...i just did mine few weeks ago and one of my screws snapped in my distributor so i had to trip ever so carefully. but again good job on this very easy to read.
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Old 01-Feb-2007, 01:21 PM
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Thanks
I just found out i need an ignitor too :S
i'll post that up when i find one
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Old 01-Feb-2007, 02:33 PM
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Good find.
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Old 01-Feb-2007, 07:36 PM
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what a ****ing stupid DIY. It doesn't even tell you how to line up the screw on the rotor so it can be loosened.

You do thise by putting the car into gear and rocking it back and fourth. This will cause the motor to turn over, do this untill you can see the rotor screw.
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Old 01-Feb-2007, 11:37 PM
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it was in the thread later on
but doing it would take forever so he said

i just didn't bother posting it cause they discussed it would be a matter of a needle in a haystack, either or your replacing it anyways your not going to get much use of your old one.

and lastly if its so ****ing stupid diy
then remove it
just trying to put some more DIY so if anybody ever needed it atleast they could fix it, not everyone knows everything like you do, your useless comments don't help anybody else out either except make your post count higher
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Old 02-Feb-2007, 11:37 AM
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How is my post useless? I just said how to line up the screw for removal. Without my 'useless' post some yahoo would take the cap off.. and wouldn't be able to find the screw to remove the rotor, so maybe my 'useless' posts have some reasoning behind them.


Originally posted by xplizitremix
i just didn't bother posting it cause they discussed it would be a matter of a needle in a haystack, either or your replacing it anyways your not going to get much use of your old one.
huh?
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Old 02-Feb-2007, 11:50 AM
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Originally posted by chris_si98
what a ****ing stupid DIY.
^^^ Its not what you say....Its how you say it.
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Old 02-Feb-2007, 01:19 PM
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Originally posted by szuberi


^^^ Its not what you say....Its how you say it.

cry bout it..

i could careless, he skipped out the most important step, therefore its ****ing stupid imo. That's like having a DIY for a headgasket and forgetting to write out the loosen seqeuence of the head bolts or the torque spec, you just don't do it.
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Old 02-Feb-2007, 01:32 PM
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Originally posted by chris_si98

You do thise by putting the car into gear and rocking it back and fourth. This will cause the motor to turn over, do this untill you can see the rotor screw.
In case u have auto, by putting ur key in the ignition and turning ur key works too. Works much easier if you have two people, other wise you'll be running back and forth. It's gonna be a guessing game. For the nOObs: The car won't start because your plugs aren't hooked up.
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Old 02-Feb-2007, 02:47 PM
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also a good idea to pull the ECU fuse if you decide to do arthur's method
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Old 02-Feb-2007, 02:51 PM
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^True...a check engine light isn't cool, altough I have done it to my friends car a few times with the ECU plugged and all the fuses in tact when installing a tach. Nothing happened. It's not worth the risk though.
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Old 02-Feb-2007, 03:16 PM
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or you could put a ratchet with a 17mm (for the d-series guys) or a 19mm (for the b-series guys) socket/ratchet on the crank pulley and turn it over by hand until you can see the little screw.
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Old 02-Feb-2007, 06:04 PM
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^^^ ya true, but easier when the plugs are outta the car so you don't fight compression ^^^
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Old 02-Feb-2007, 06:33 PM
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whats the matter B, no pipes? lol

just playing..
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Old 03-Feb-2007, 11:40 AM
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Excellent, appreciate the writeup!
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Old 03-Feb-2007, 12:47 PM
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
^^^ ya true, but easier when the plugs are outta the car so you don't fight compression ^^^
bah, don't be a wussy.
My cars got 11.5:1 CR and i turn it over by hand with the spark plugs in with ease, and i'm by no means, a strong person.
But ya, pulling the plugs makes it easier to turn over.
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Old 03-Feb-2007, 01:33 PM
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Originally posted by zeeman


bah, don't be a wussy.
My cars got 11.5:1 CR and i turn it over by hand with the spark plugs in with ease, and i'm by no means, a strong person.
But ya, pulling the plugs makes it easier to turn over.

what you talking about man?

ALl those mcChickens have made you strong like bull.
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Old 03-Feb-2007, 04:28 PM
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Originally posted by chris_si98
whats the matter B, no pipes? lol

just playing..
ahh you kids...

work smart, not hard.
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