High Mileage Car - What to look for?
 

I am interested in purchasing an EK. It has very high mileage. What should I be worried about?

How much are we talking about?

320

What year is the car? EKs range from 96-00

320k for an ek sounds unusually high. look for maintenance records (oil changes, timing belt changes, whater pump, brakes, etc) and cosmetic condition (i.e. rust in rear quarter panels, repaints, etc)

What is the trim and body style?
price?

dont buy it and get a different one? they're a dime a dozen :shrugs:

if its dirt cheap..dont expect much

if it's dirt cheap and body is in good condition, buy it
if engine fails, motors can be had for 2-500$

just make sure it is a good deal

depends what your goals are for the car.. if you plan on swapping the motor, I'd look for a good body and interior..

i'll tell you what to look for.... a lower mileage car :D
really though, how handy are you with the steel? I mean are you good with tools?

everything wll be very worn from wheel bearings to to the engine. damn my ef only had 240 000 before it got stolen and it was a 1990. this car could be a 98 with almost 100000 more kms on it. if its real cheap maybe but i think it will wind up costing alot in the end. run...run away as fast as you can! oh and it is still a 10 year old car if it a 96.

How much would it cost to swap suspension parts, which ones would you recommend?

There is a small 1" rust in rear right 1/4, and penny size at edge of hood near emblem. Fully stock car, mostly highway (in outtanowhere). I was told a 60K JDM engine is probably comparable to a 200K USDM/CDM engine due to all the idling and city traffic.

I am decent with tools, have volunteered at an automotive performance shop.

I would probably be getting new springs/struts/shocks and brakes would be upgraded regardless if it was a 200K EG or a 320K EK.

Can get this cheap from ebay store.

2 Upper Control Arms with Ball Joints and all the bushings.
2 Lower Ball Joints.
2 Outer Tie Rod Ends
2 Inner Tie Rod Ends
2 Sway Bar Link Kits (Stabilizer Link)

What else would I be missing?

like others have said, depends on your goals, if you want a DD that is reliable and needs little work, there are better options, if your gonna swap the motor, and lots of other parts and the body is in good shape, its probably a pretyt good deal..

doesn't matter, steering rack, tie rods (inner and outer), all engine components, susp and bushings, brakes, lines, master cyl, chassis parts (ball joints upper and lower), wheel bearings, windshield wipers, heater, rad, everything on the car would be shot. in addition, the chassis itself weakens from twisting and vibrations from driving.

for $2750 that the car is listed for on trader.ca, I'd pass it up. it's not worth it when you can get a better one for only $6000.

all the cylinders, even the brake booster might be failing... oil lines, brake lines, check if the drums/disc/calipers are still good... and replace all bushings allaround too... the cat is probably dead, might not pass etest and stuff.... 2750 not worth it... more like if its 1250-1500.. worth a shot...

look for another car.