why buy OEM???
#1
-- site donator --
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: not Toronto
Posts: 27,687
why buy OEM???
Prolly many times in your trips to the dealer, you ask yourself "why don't I just roll on over to Canadian Tire and grab me the same part for 1/2 the price". Quite simply, you have to blindly believe that OEM parts will just outlast the CT parts. I witnessed a 17 year old original OEM alternator on a Honda... I don't recall the last time I've seen a CT alternator last more than 5 years. Nippon-Denso, a major Honda OEM supplier makes undoubtedly some of the finest parts in the world, bar none!!!
Now, there comes a time in the lifespan of a car when an OEM part replacement will simply outlast the car body itself due to rust and abuse, in which case the cheaper alternative part that won't last as long is to be called into action. So when making a purchase decision next time you gotta buy something, think about the longevity of the part vs the longevity of the car vs the cost of each alternative. Like a brand new axle is about $700, but odds are it will outlive the car prolly by double, so a reman'd axle for $100 makes more sense.... same with rads - OEM rads last prolly 10-15 years in most cases, so by the time you have to replace it, the car prolly only has 5 years life left anyways. Bottom line is... OEM>aftermarket every day of the week, and if it wasn't for rust, OEM parts would be my ONLY choice all day long.
Now, there comes a time in the lifespan of a car when an OEM part replacement will simply outlast the car body itself due to rust and abuse, in which case the cheaper alternative part that won't last as long is to be called into action. So when making a purchase decision next time you gotta buy something, think about the longevity of the part vs the longevity of the car vs the cost of each alternative. Like a brand new axle is about $700, but odds are it will outlive the car prolly by double, so a reman'd axle for $100 makes more sense.... same with rads - OEM rads last prolly 10-15 years in most cases, so by the time you have to replace it, the car prolly only has 5 years life left anyways. Bottom line is... OEM>aftermarket every day of the week, and if it wasn't for rust, OEM parts would be my ONLY choice all day long.
#6
can't forget ****.....cause if u cheap out on the **** guy.......u'll end up with some screwed up ****.......either russian fetish ****....or some 80'z **** . . . no good
But bbarbulo is right....OEM is always the way to go.....if ur replacing really vital parts........cause it'll last. ..
But bbarbulo is right....OEM is always the way to go.....if ur replacing really vital parts........cause it'll last. ..
#9
Don't forget brakes, go OEM or go home. I installed brakes on my car from crappy tire b/c I needed them badly and I was on a tight budget and after 1 month, crunch bang crrrrrrrkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk *** every time I braked, which was the reason I upgraded on my sound system
It also depends on ur plans and intention on your car. If I had in the right of mind that my car was going up for sale in a year for whatever reason it may be, then there's no chance in hell i'll be buying OEM, what for? you just lose that money at the end when you sell it.
It also depends on ur plans and intention on your car. If I had in the right of mind that my car was going up for sale in a year for whatever reason it may be, then there's no chance in hell i'll be buying OEM, what for? you just lose that money at the end when you sell it.
#10
Excellent post. Like the saying goes, you get what you pay for, which definitly applies to car parts. Sure OEM costs more, often MUCH more, but look at it this way: You're buying time, and time is money.
I always try to go OEM when I can. Sometimes my bank account just won't let me.
I always try to go OEM when I can. Sometimes my bank account just won't let me.
#11
i still have the majority of my engine and engine compartment oem from the factory... exceptions are the distributor which seized and the starter and of course regular replaceable things... technically my factory clutch went poo poo so i now have an oem clutch and tranny off a 99 DX... the d stands for dominating...
#13
Sooo true, I bought an aftermarket OEM exhaust for my old coupe and it was far < Honda OEM thats on my new coupe, I really like this new coupe, but it needs some a new hood and maybe fenders lol. Too expensive to buy brand new Honda ones, guess I'll go used or subpar aftermarkets lol
#15
-- site donator --
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: not Toronto
Posts: 27,687
Anthony, if you ever actually LOOK at the braking tests - the stock systems (like a GSR system on a Civic vs a Wilwood on a Civic) the OEM upgraded system will usually kick *** in braking until fade starts to kick in --- unless you upgrade your master cylinder and booster, the wilwoods are just for bling... so in most cases I'd take OEM... plus I can replace my rotors for $55 ea. and you'll have to send away for them, and prolly pay $100US each.
grego9198 - look for OEM hood and fenders from HAP recycling or someone who's "upgraded" to Z3 fenders and cf hood.... if all else fails go aftermarket, but I'd try the classifieds first.
grego9198 - look for OEM hood and fenders from HAP recycling or someone who's "upgraded" to Z3 fenders and cf hood.... if all else fails go aftermarket, but I'd try the classifieds first.
#16
Bruno, That's true but once you start kicking out lots of hp stock won't cut it. Though I don't think any of us are in the state yet but I can dream can't I. I was going to putting GS-R discs on my old hatch.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post