What do I do next?!?!
23-Mar-2010, 03:08 PM
#1
What do I do next?!?!
So my eg has a CAI, headers, cat back, and its sitting on teg type r suspension... what should I do to the motor?
I'm not planning on spending an arm and a leg because I do plan on swapping the motor by july....
But I am so bored with that d16z6 and I need to change something now!
Any ideas?
I'm not planning on spending an arm and a leg because I do plan on swapping the motor by july....
But I am so bored with that d16z6 and I need to change something now!
Any ideas?
23-Mar-2010, 03:56 PM
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Where my car is.
Posts: 5,460
Trust me on this one, and I'm sure others will agree...Just leave it as is, enjoy the great fuel mileage and save your money for something bigger and better (like a swap, turbo install, or?) down the road. It will be worth it.
23-Mar-2010, 04:08 PM
#5
lol if i had that much to spend i would have swapped it and posted up pics instead of this post lol....
true.. but that d16z6 is so useless w/o a turbo lol.. its not that quick at the moment even with the bolt ons.. putting that aside.. i can't hear vtec kicking in much as you would hear in a b16, b18 etc.. is it because its a sohc?
23-Mar-2010, 04:24 PM
#6
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Chatham Ont
Posts: 282
very much because of sohc , but u can hear it really well with a nice CAI and a different intake mani throttle body etc. ive noticed quite a few times that certain motors are a little louder then others stock.. not sure why but my buddy could NEVER hear the crossover in his del sol.. but in my EG it was loud as ****... we had the same mods as well... sooo *shrugs*
23-Mar-2010, 04:29 PM
#7
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lol if i had that much to spend i would have swapped it and posted up pics instead of this post lol....
true.. but that d16z6 is so useless w/o a turbo lol.. its not that quick at the moment even with the bolt ons.. putting that aside.. i can't hear vtec kicking in much as you would hear in a b16, b18 etc.. is it because its a sohc?
true.. but that d16z6 is so useless w/o a turbo lol.. its not that quick at the moment even with the bolt ons.. putting that aside.. i can't hear vtec kicking in much as you would hear in a b16, b18 etc.. is it because its a sohc?
Try some weight reduction. Sheading some weight can make a big difference in performance. Run a little higher pressure in the tires for better fuel mileage (40psi should be sufficient without wrecking the center tread of your tires)...
I don't know what else to tell you...lol
Just bare with it and save.
23-Mar-2010, 04:38 PM
#8
very much because of sohc , but u can hear it really well with a nice CAI and a different intake mani throttle body etc. ive noticed quite a few times that certain motors are a little louder then others stock.. not sure why but my buddy could NEVER hear the crossover in his del sol.. but in my EG it was loud as ****... we had the same mods as well... sooo *shrugs*
The difference in lift/duration on the sohc vtec cam is not as significant as it is on the dohc vtec cams.
Try some weight reduction. Sheading some weight can make a big difference in performance. Run a little higher pressure in the tires for better fuel mileage (40psi should be sufficient without wrecking the center tread of your tires)...
I don't know what else to tell you...lol
Just bare with it and save.
Try some weight reduction. Sheading some weight can make a big difference in performance. Run a little higher pressure in the tires for better fuel mileage (40psi should be sufficient without wrecking the center tread of your tires)...
I don't know what else to tell you...lol
Just bare with it and save.
and 40psi is okay for daily driving?!?!
23-Mar-2010, 04:51 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 1,672
So my eg has a CAI, headers, cat back, and its sitting on teg type r suspension... what should I do to the motor?
I'm not planning on spending an arm and a leg because I do plan on swapping the motor by july....
But I am so bored with that d16z6 and I need to change something now!
Any ideas?
I'm not planning on spending an arm and a leg because I do plan on swapping the motor by july....
But I am so bored with that d16z6 and I need to change something now!
Any ideas?
There is a pretty simple answer NOS
. I know a lot of people dont like to be on the bottle but it is the cheapest and best solution for quick power. Like you said it is a quick fix until you do a swap so you may as well have fun with your current engine. 
Otherwise just save up money for a swap or turbo. I m on the same boat , and I m still deciding to go turbo or engine swap.
Turbo is more power but it can be costly and maintance can also be costly , plus you are going to have to run premium gas as far as i know.
Swap as a more reliable to a certain extend but you are never going to get the same power as a turbo engine. Then again I dont really think you need a 200+ HP car for your daily driving. I ll be happy with a SIR engine but the turbo idea does sound tempting
23-Mar-2010, 06:38 PM
#11
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Where my car is.
Posts: 5,460
Oh man... don't get me started on nitrous...ugh...*cough* (lame)
Most intakes are the same. An aluminum pipe with a cone filter on the end. The only major difference is the diameter of the pipe (usually 2.5 or 3" dia) and the quality of the filter. On your engine you won't notice hardly any difference with different brands.
Don't expect much from basic bolt-ons.
Seriously, just leave it. Drive it as is and save.
Most intakes are the same. An aluminum pipe with a cone filter on the end. The only major difference is the diameter of the pipe (usually 2.5 or 3" dia) and the quality of the filter. On your engine you won't notice hardly any difference with different brands.
Don't expect much from basic bolt-ons.
Seriously, just leave it. Drive it as is and save.
23-Mar-2010, 07:34 PM
#13
Oh man... don't get me started on nitrous...ugh...*cough* (lame)
Most intakes are the same. An aluminum pipe with a cone filter on the end. The only major difference is the diameter of the pipe (usually 2.5 or 3" dia) and the quality of the filter. On your engine you won't notice hardly any difference with different brands.
Don't expect much from basic bolt-ons.
Seriously, just leave it. Drive it as is and save.
Most intakes are the same. An aluminum pipe with a cone filter on the end. The only major difference is the diameter of the pipe (usually 2.5 or 3" dia) and the quality of the filter. On your engine you won't notice hardly any difference with different brands.
Don't expect much from basic bolt-ons.
Seriously, just leave it. Drive it as is and save.
23-Mar-2010, 07:44 PM
#14
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: N/A
Posts: 4,641
Could not agree with Mike any more. I mean how much money are you looking to spend if you don't want to spend $1200 on a cheap turbo kit (which you shouldn't even use)? Now intakes are all the same, they do free up "power" but your butt dyno will not feel it. The only thing that comes to mind is intake manifold and a bigger throttle body but then again power gains would be way too minimal for the price you pay. You could always gut the interior and from the added sound (just like an intake) it will give you the illusion of you being faster.
Just keep it the way it is and loose some weight or run smaller wheels. Also before I forget, a good tune up would help responsiveness if it hasn't been done in a while.
Just keep it the way it is and loose some weight or run smaller wheels. Also before I forget, a good tune up would help responsiveness if it hasn't been done in a while.
23-Mar-2010, 10:35 PM
#15
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Waterloo, Ontario
Posts: 1,074
23-Mar-2010, 11:06 PM
#16
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 1,672
Could not agree with Mike any more. I mean how much money are you looking to spend if you don't want to spend $1200 on a cheap turbo kit (which you shouldn't even use)? Now intakes are all the same, they do free up "power" but your butt dyno will not feel it. The only thing that comes to mind is intake manifold and a bigger throttle body but then again power gains would be way too minimal for the price you pay. You could always gut the interior and from the added sound (just like an intake) it will give you the illusion of you being faster.
Just keep it the way it is and loose some weight or run smaller wheels. Also before I forget, a good tune up would help responsiveness if it hasn't been done in a while.
Just keep it the way it is and loose some weight or run smaller wheels. Also before I forget, a good tune up would help responsiveness if it hasn't been done in a while.
thats the reason i said , if you want cheap power just add nos to your car simple as that. Nos is the best option for cheap power. Think about it nothing will give you that much power for the same price. Sure its not like having a turbo or a swap but it is still better than all the options you are giving him ( intake manifold , bigger throttle body)... You can spend 100s on intake , bigger throttle body , headers , etc ,etc but it will only add 10 HP at the most ....
Either save up for a swap ( sir or gsr ) or save up for a turbo. However turbo is not cheap , you may be able to find a kit for 1200 but you still have to install it , tune it , and maybe even rebuild your engine to handle that much power ( depends on the condition o your engine) plus you are going to start putting premiun gas ... Either way you are looking at 2000+ for the swap or turbo in your car
On the other hand nos is cheap , you have it when you want it... BTW my opinion is solely base on the fact that you want some more power while you save up for a turbo or swap... 40 shot of nos shoudl be fun for a couple of months , you will never gain that much power with any other upgrade for 500-600 ( i think thats how much it cost)
23-Mar-2010, 11:11 PM
#17
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: N/A
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Go with b18b1 or B20. Though B20 has weaker sleeves the torque is nice.
Imo b16's are just a huge hype. Ls has more low end/mid range power where as b16 has top end. Ls swaps are cheap and you can build off that. With a proper setup you can hit 200whp mark.
Imo b16's are just a huge hype. Ls has more low end/mid range power where as b16 has top end. Ls swaps are cheap and you can build off that. With a proper setup you can hit 200whp mark.
24-Mar-2010, 12:26 AM
#18
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Where my car is.
Posts: 5,460
Jdm b16s and b18c1's (gsr) make the same power (170hp). However, the B16 is a 1.6L and b18 is a 1.8L...
If I had the choice, I'd go for the larger displacement gsr engine. Don't get me wrong though, b16's respond well to bolt-ons and are becoming much more affordable. I raced an ek LS non-vtec swapped hatch at cayuga last spring with my heavier 00 SiR with b16a2, near stock at the time, he had me off the line but the top end grunt of the b16 pulled ahead in the 2nd half of the track to win by about a cars length...
As for ls and non-vtec b20's, they have nice torque and low-mid range for daily driving but still lack the top-end ***** of the b-series vtec engines. So if you swap in a non-vtec b-series and leave it NA, you may get bored of that as well. But they are good for boosting (lower compression)...
It's all up to you really. You have to think about what it is you want exactly. We can tell you what we would do, but this is your car.
In all honesty, a B20 non vtec is dirt cheap (can find them for around ~$400-450), and will give you the most options for the future. You can leave it as-is and daily drive it with nice low-mid torque from it's larger 2.0L of displacement, or you can boost it as is and make some decent numbers, or slap on a vtec head and turn it into a 200whp+ NA monster. Some may argue when building an NA B20 to leave the non-vtec head and build it, but by doing that your are now stuck with one cam profile that the engine must off all the time. This means poor efficiency when running the engine out of it's designed rpm range, rough idle, and gutless bottom end power. The whole idea of 'vtec', is to have two difference cam lobe profiles with different lift/duration so that your engine will idle smoothly, run more efficiently, and make more power throughout the entire rpm range. VTEC is not over-rated, it's miss-understood.
The choice is yours my friend.
Tis the beauty of Hondas...so many options...
If I had the choice, I'd go for the larger displacement gsr engine. Don't get me wrong though, b16's respond well to bolt-ons and are becoming much more affordable. I raced an ek LS non-vtec swapped hatch at cayuga last spring with my heavier 00 SiR with b16a2, near stock at the time, he had me off the line but the top end grunt of the b16 pulled ahead in the 2nd half of the track to win by about a cars length...
As for ls and non-vtec b20's, they have nice torque and low-mid range for daily driving but still lack the top-end ***** of the b-series vtec engines. So if you swap in a non-vtec b-series and leave it NA, you may get bored of that as well. But they are good for boosting (lower compression)...
It's all up to you really. You have to think about what it is you want exactly. We can tell you what we would do, but this is your car.
In all honesty, a B20 non vtec is dirt cheap (can find them for around ~$400-450), and will give you the most options for the future. You can leave it as-is and daily drive it with nice low-mid torque from it's larger 2.0L of displacement, or you can boost it as is and make some decent numbers, or slap on a vtec head and turn it into a 200whp+ NA monster. Some may argue when building an NA B20 to leave the non-vtec head and build it, but by doing that your are now stuck with one cam profile that the engine must off all the time. This means poor efficiency when running the engine out of it's designed rpm range, rough idle, and gutless bottom end power. The whole idea of 'vtec', is to have two difference cam lobe profiles with different lift/duration so that your engine will idle smoothly, run more efficiently, and make more power throughout the entire rpm range. VTEC is not over-rated, it's miss-understood.
The choice is yours my friend.
Tis the beauty of Hondas...so many options...
Last edited by MPR; 24-Mar-2010 at 09:03 AM.
24-Mar-2010, 10:25 AM
#20
Jdm b16s and b18c1's (gsr) make the same power (170hp). However, the B16 is a 1.6L and b18 is a 1.8L...
If I had the choice, I'd go for the larger displacement gsr engine. Don't get me wrong though, b16's respond well to bolt-ons and are becoming much more affordable. I raced an ek LS non-vtec swapped hatch at cayuga last spring with my heavier 00 SiR with b16a2, near stock at the time, he had me off the line but the top end grunt of the b16 pulled ahead in the 2nd half of the track to win by about a cars length...
As for ls and non-vtec b20's, they have nice torque and low-mid range for daily driving but still lack the top-end ***** of the b-series vtec engines. So if you swap in a non-vtec b-series and leave it NA, you may get bored of that as well. But they are good for boosting (lower compression)...
It's all up to you really. You have to think about what it is you want exactly. We can tell you what we would do, but this is your car.
In all honesty, a B20 non vtec is dirt cheap (can find them for around ~$400-450), and will give you the most options for the future. You can leave it as-is and daily drive it with nice low-mid torque from it's larger 2.0L of displacement, or you can boost it as is and make some decent numbers, or slap on a vtec head and turn it into a 200whp+ NA monster. Some may argue when building an NA B20 to leave the non-vtec head and build it, but by doing that your are now stuck with one cam profile that the engine must off all the time. This means poor efficiency when running the engine out of it's designed rpm range, rough idle, and gutless bottom end power. The whole idea of 'vtec', is to have two difference cam lobe profiles with different lift/duration so that your engine will idle smoothly, run more efficiently, and make more power throughout the entire rpm range. VTEC is not over-rated, it's miss-understood.
The choice is yours my friend.
Tis the beauty of Hondas...so many options...
If I had the choice, I'd go for the larger displacement gsr engine. Don't get me wrong though, b16's respond well to bolt-ons and are becoming much more affordable. I raced an ek LS non-vtec swapped hatch at cayuga last spring with my heavier 00 SiR with b16a2, near stock at the time, he had me off the line but the top end grunt of the b16 pulled ahead in the 2nd half of the track to win by about a cars length...
As for ls and non-vtec b20's, they have nice torque and low-mid range for daily driving but still lack the top-end ***** of the b-series vtec engines. So if you swap in a non-vtec b-series and leave it NA, you may get bored of that as well. But they are good for boosting (lower compression)...
It's all up to you really. You have to think about what it is you want exactly. We can tell you what we would do, but this is your car.
In all honesty, a B20 non vtec is dirt cheap (can find them for around ~$400-450), and will give you the most options for the future. You can leave it as-is and daily drive it with nice low-mid torque from it's larger 2.0L of displacement, or you can boost it as is and make some decent numbers, or slap on a vtec head and turn it into a 200whp+ NA monster. Some may argue when building an NA B20 to leave the non-vtec head and build it, but by doing that your are now stuck with one cam profile that the engine must off all the time. This means poor efficiency when running the engine out of it's designed rpm range, rough idle, and gutless bottom end power. The whole idea of 'vtec', is to have two difference cam lobe profiles with different lift/duration so that your engine will idle smoothly, run more efficiently, and make more power throughout the entire rpm range. VTEC is not over-rated, it's miss-understood.
The choice is yours my friend.
Tis the beauty of Hondas...so many options...
lol good one... now i want like 5 hondas lol
... well.. i do plan on going to the tracks eventually... and the sound of vtec is just addictive! lol.. what's your thoughts on building up an N/A b18c1? good for tracks.. and daily summer cruising?
