Temperatures this cold and Cars
28-Jan-2005, 12:20 AM
#22
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When it's -109 outside at night, I don't think that warming up the car before you go to sleep is gonna help at all. Let's say you get out of the car for lunch and then head back in an hour and a half, your car is already pretty damn cold. Now imagine it after 9 or so hours? I don't think that it'll help.
28-Jan-2005, 12:27 AM
#23
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Originally posted by CyniKal.Mindset
what u need is a 4th gen...starts every morning, hop in (frozen solid seat) start her up...let the idle drop to a respectable level...get goin (steering is hard as can be)
starting the car before bed is prolly worse since the battery isnt being charged durin that 5-10minute idle period and like kane2k said, its gonna be the same temp in 8hrs or 28hrs
what u need is a 4th gen...starts every morning, hop in (frozen solid seat) start her up...let the idle drop to a respectable level...get goin (steering is hard as can be)
starting the car before bed is prolly worse since the battery isnt being charged durin that 5-10minute idle period and like kane2k said, its gonna be the same temp in 8hrs or 28hrs
28-Jan-2005, 08:06 AM
#24
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Originally posted by viper_2_4
oh ya, 4th gens rock, mine starts every morning also.......clutch cable is soo stiff when its -25 out however...
oh ya, 4th gens rock, mine starts every morning also.......clutch cable is soo stiff when its -25 out however...
28-Jan-2005, 08:56 AM
#25
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Location: Brantford, Ontario
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The car is a 95 Toyota Tercel.
So apparently she got a boost from her neighbor but it didn't work at all. it still made the same clicking sound I guess.
Does that mean it's probably the starter?
For a little while now it's been slow to start. It turns over a little slow at first before it kicks in and starts. I thought that it was just the temperature change and so last oil change i did on it i put thinner oil in. 5W 30 if I remember correctly. It didn't seem to make a difference though. I wonder if this was just a sign of the starter beginning to go on it??
Thoughts?
So apparently she got a boost from her neighbor but it didn't work at all. it still made the same clicking sound I guess.
Does that mean it's probably the starter?
For a little while now it's been slow to start. It turns over a little slow at first before it kicks in and starts. I thought that it was just the temperature change and so last oil change i did on it i put thinner oil in. 5W 30 if I remember correctly. It didn't seem to make a difference though. I wonder if this was just a sign of the starter beginning to go on it??
Thoughts?
28-Jan-2005, 10:53 AM
#26
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Once the starter bearing start to go, it take much more power to turn over so, that on top of trying to turn the flywheel is an exponential increase.
A dying starter sounds just like a starter trying to crank on a weak battery.
Before you decide to replace the starter, I'd check to make sure the power is connected on the starter securely and you have a clean connection. Check your battery terminals and the terminal on the starter.
A dying starter sounds just like a starter trying to crank on a weak battery.
Before you decide to replace the starter, I'd check to make sure the power is connected on the starter securely and you have a clean connection. Check your battery terminals and the terminal on the starter.
28-Jan-2005, 01:36 PM
#27
Originally posted by loudsubz
man my car runs like a brick when its cold, no P.S., sometimes will pop out of 2nd so i have to put it back in again, clutch moves so slow, whole car is bumpy cause everything is so stiff
I hate winter
man my car runs like a brick when its cold, no P.S., sometimes will pop out of 2nd so i have to put it back in again, clutch moves so slow, whole car is bumpy cause everything is so stiff
I hate winter
but I also get some horrible clunking in my suspension somewhere every time the weight of the car shifts. Honda still can't find the problem. 
28-Jan-2005, 02:05 PM
#28
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Location: Toronto, Ontario
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My is totally different in the cold also. Things sound s and feel way different in these freeeeeezing cold temperatures. Tomorrow is supposed to be 0 degrees ad sunny so hopefully i can sit my car in the sun and get it to thaw out for a few hours.
28-Jan-2005, 06:58 PM
#29
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Fourth gen is the key for consistant winter starting. I've had 5 of them over 6 years, i work construction so im always leaving 7am, not once has the car not started! Though when its real cold you have to let it run for i bit before you can drive, or it will stall.
28-Jan-2005, 08:18 PM
#30
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Originally posted by CyniKal.Mindset
what u need is a 4th gen...starts every morning, hop in (frozen solid seat) start her up...let the idle drop to a respectable level...get goin (steering is hard as can be)
what u need is a 4th gen...starts every morning, hop in (frozen solid seat) start her up...let the idle drop to a respectable level...get goin (steering is hard as can be)
mine wont start unless you have the gas down a lot and are very patient, then once started it stalls out 90% of the time its in nuetral and i'm not pushing the gas in
29-Jan-2005, 02:07 AM
#31
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how come everyone is forgetting the OBVIOUS and the most simplest thing to do to gurantee starts?
BUY a LONG RANGE pager alarm.
Then program it to Automatically Start up the car every 2 hours or so for say 5 mins.
Easy as PIE.
that way your battery wont die on you, the fuel lines wont freeze up, oil wouldnt be cold either.
BUY a LONG RANGE pager alarm.
Then program it to Automatically Start up the car every 2 hours or so for say 5 mins.
Easy as PIE.
that way your battery wont die on you, the fuel lines wont freeze up, oil wouldnt be cold either.
29-Jan-2005, 02:10 AM
#32
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Originally posted by electronblue
but I also get some horrible clunking in my suspension somewhere every time the weight of the car shifts. Honda still can't find the problem.
but I also get some horrible clunking in my suspension somewhere every time the weight of the car shifts. Honda still can't find the problem.
it might sound like its comming from your suspension but its really the muffler hitting the shield or something.
because i had a similar problem on one of my friends cars and he always thought it was the suspension but i figured it could be the muffler so what i did was pull the muffler outward a little more and then the noise stopped.
the reason it was the muffler was because his car when he reverse packed apparently hit the muffler on the curb without him realizing it and after that it was pushed back a little.
29-Jan-2005, 12:53 PM
#34
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Location: Mississauga West Side
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Originally posted by Team Rukus
how come everyone is forgetting the OBVIOUS and the most simplest thing to do to gurantee starts?
BUY a LONG RANGE pager alarm.
Then program it to Automatically Start up the car every 2 hours or so for say 5 mins.
Easy as PIE.
that way your battery wont die on you, the fuel lines wont freeze up, oil wouldnt be cold either.
how come everyone is forgetting the OBVIOUS and the most simplest thing to do to gurantee starts?
BUY a LONG RANGE pager alarm.
Then program it to Automatically Start up the car every 2 hours or so for say 5 mins.
Easy as PIE.
that way your battery wont die on you, the fuel lines wont freeze up, oil wouldnt be cold either.
30-Jan-2005, 01:19 AM
#35
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Moon
Posts: 8,921
Originally posted by loudsubz
...because letting your car idle for awhile is bad for the engine, a block heater or coolant heater is the best way.
...because letting your car idle for awhile is bad for the engine, a block heater or coolant heater is the best way.
30-Jan-2005, 01:39 AM
#37
Originally posted by Team Rukus
hey michelle are you sure its not the muffler???
it might sound like its comming from your suspension but its really the muffler hitting the shield or something.
because i had a similar problem on one of my friends cars and he always thought it was the suspension but i figured it could be the muffler so what i did was pull the muffler outward a little more and then the noise stopped.
the reason it was the muffler was because his car when he reverse packed apparently hit the muffler on the curb without him realizing it and after that it was pushed back a little.
hey michelle are you sure its not the muffler???
it might sound like its comming from your suspension but its really the muffler hitting the shield or something.
because i had a similar problem on one of my friends cars and he always thought it was the suspension but i figured it could be the muffler so what i did was pull the muffler outward a little more and then the noise stopped.
the reason it was the muffler was because his car when he reverse packed apparently hit the muffler on the curb without him realizing it and after that it was pushed back a little.
didn't help only temperature rising above -5 helps.
30-Jan-2005, 01:43 AM
#38
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Location: Mississauga West Side
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Originally posted by Team Rukus
and thats why there is a timer to turn it off as soon as it warms up.
and thats why there is a timer to turn it off as soon as it warms up.
your hurting the car more by letting it idle, even just untill it warms up
not to mention adding to the pollution in the enviroment, id say this is a pretty stupid idea
30-Jan-2005, 04:02 PM
#39
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Posts: 330
Originally posted by toyo
Cool.
Ya I wondered if perhaps it should just be started for a couple minutes before bed. Let it warm up a bit. My hands and runny nose were hoping there might be an easier solution.
Thanks for the tips boys...
nathan
Cool.
Ya I wondered if perhaps it should just be started for a couple minutes before bed. Let it warm up a bit. My hands and runny nose were hoping there might be an easier solution.
Thanks for the tips boys...
nathan
Pointless. The battery would get minimal fresh charge, especially when compared to what you use up starting the car. A few minutes running without properly and fully warming up the car just helps turn your oil to sludge faster, and rot out your exhaust system even faster.
And did I mention how many cars get stolen as they warm up unattended? Are you prepared to sit in your car for that minimum 20 minutes/half hour it would take to properly warm up?
You probably just need a new battery. Battery performance starts to deteriorate the moment you drive off the lot. Over time, your battery's ability to accept and hold a charge will decrease to nothing. If your battery is more than 4 or 5 years old, it's probably toast or well on its way to getting there.
Extreme cold weather further affects the performance of your battery, especially older batteries.
Take your battery to a reputable shop and have it tested. Most will test for free if you buy a battery from them. Replace it with a decent battery if the battery is on it's way out. The extra cost of a good battery over a bargain basement one is a lot less than the cost of a service call to boost your car.
