mechatune

Hey, very dumb question I'm sure those with winter beaters know the answer to.
I just want to know what i should do before storing my project car in my garage during the winter, which i don't plan to work on until June.

WHAT STEPS SHOULD I TAKE?
also, should I at least start and warm up the car, leave it idle for a bit every day so the battery won't die?

Whiplash

once a week should do it..
i did my bike once a month and it proved to be enuf..

most recommend doing an oil change right before you store it away too...
lay some carpet underneath it maybe to reduce the condensation from rising from the concrete (if concrete floor)

imported_94EG6HB

For Porsche's....

Same concept...

:thumbup

Search Google...

Automobile Winter Storage Car

[window]www.968.net/winterstorage.htm[/window]

Whiplash

oh, and if you don't plan on running it for a while??
i'd pull the dist wire for a few seconds before actually starting it too...
helps get oil up top before allowing it to run..

mechatune

HEY THANKS AARON, YOU'VE BEEN A BIG HELP.

mechatune

hey, thanks for helping too man, but i'm not too sure on what you mean by the dist wire? please explain, not too sure about what you mean...

Whiplash

distributor wire..
so the engine turns over w/o actually starting..
keeps the revolutions down but still moves the oil to where it needs to be...

oil drains down over time back into the oil pan..

imported_1sicsol

Can the rims really get "flat spots"???
What if it was left on rims? Good? Bad?

SilverCRXSi

Damn all I did was change my rims...
I guess I should add the gas preserver I'd have sitting around...

imported_SW20 MR2

Check the Tips section of my site for some info.

The G2 Racer

What about if you car is being stored outside for about 4 months?

I'm going away and I was just going to wash it, do an oil change, disconnect the battery, add some fuel preserver, and take the ecu (so know one **** wit my car). Just throw a car cover over it to protect it a bit.
Is this any good?

AzimuthX

Check Honda's manual

go_vtec

it's really helpful

imported_MY SiR

Mike,

Rims won't get flat spots but tires will. I have been (trying) starting up my Trans Am once a week and driving it around a little. The only thing I actually did was an oil change, wash and covering it up before storing it.

Mark

The G2 Racer

Azimuth X: My manual says to use 5W-30 oil in my car, my car burns that thin **** so fast it ain't funny. I use 10W-50 now. I rarely listen to my manual unless it's how to remove something (blubs). Get a shop manual, 10X then the honda manual.

Helms is where it at.

AzimuthX

If you trust Honda to manufacture your vehicle, you don't trust them to produce correct answers in the manual? There may be a problem within your vehicle, why don't you get it serviced or looked at and than see whats up because doubtly the manual will give you wrong solutions...

The G2 Racer

My car is in perfect running condition. I've had problem with Honda before. I don't let them work on my car. That and the few Dealerships I've been to they seem not to know much, parts wise that is. I won't let them service my car because it's a bloody rip off. Like over $30 to do an oil change. I'll buy the filter from them and get the oil and do it myself.

As for the oil 5w30 is just to thin, where as 10w50 is much thicker. I'm running 10w50 now and haven't had a single problem yet.

AzimuthX

You do know that each Dealership are independently owned. Im not trying to turn this into a flame but, you may know more than the Dealership's "mechanic" but honestly, Honda Engineers would definite know alot more about their products than any average Joe, you should contact Honda's Headquarter (not the Dealer) and complain about the recommended oil is not the correct one for your vehicle, of how a lower viscosity oil would be the optimized motor oil.

Since when do people like the mechanics at any Dealers?

The G2 Racer

Not sure man.
I just rather work on my own car then pay someone to do it. That way if I mess something up I don't have to pay labour to fix it. I just go at it again.

Back on topic tho.

DR.ZED

It has been my experience that for storing a car less than 5 months:

a) battery in a warm spot inside so it doesn't dischard and the fluid freeze.

b) oil and filter change and do less than 100 kms on it.

c) fill the gas tank up to the top, and put in some gas stabilizer (Stab-il from Canadian Tire. $10 a bottle, and half a bottle will be necessary)

d) if parked outside, wash and wax before the car cover goes on. Car covers can bang the paint with the wind, so I would also recommend, if in an "open" area don't bother with a cover.

e) tires inflated to 1 - 2 PSI of the TIRE's max rating (not what is on the door). This prevents the tires from flat spotting

f) DO NOT put on the parking brake, as the lining could seize to the drum or rotor.

g) If automatic and parted on an incline, roll the car in neutral against some blocks, and then put it in park to prevent stress on the "parking pin" in the transmission. If manual, put in gear, but no parking brake as above.

h) Make sure tail pipes, air intake etc... are covered so no little creatures can get inside (you'd be surprised).

i) Mothballs around the car if you're concerned about animals.

j) Open a box of baking soda and put on the floor of the car, to absorb odor during the storage months.

k) LUBE up your door/trunk/sunroof seals. GM makes one of the best lubricants for this, and its $4 a bottle. It is called Silicon Emulsion. (sp?)


If storing longer than 6 months:

a) tea-spoon of clean motor oil down each cylinder, crank a few times with ignition disconnected (so the car won't fire), then let sit.

There are many opinions on the starting the car for a while every few weeks. It has been my experience, that doing this warms up the car yes, but DOES not heat and load the oil up enough to burn off condensation, which is the REAL killer in the storage months. IF you feel the need to warm the car up every few weeks, make absolutely sure you drive it for a good 30 minutes to burn off the condensation then park it again. Obviously you'd need to top off the gas, more gas stabilizer, and then take the battery back inside. More work than in benefit IMHO.

Most important: Keep her shiny and rubber side down!