How to hook up a a/f gauge?
#4
Just run it to the sensor, for some apparent reason, it didn't seem to work on Rice Burner's car when we did hook it up to the ecu. ?? Woked great after it was hooked directly to the sensor.
If you have a 1 wire O2 sensor, it will take around 1-2 minutes for the lights on the gauge to start moving (depending how quickly the sensor heats up).....if you have the 4 wire one, it will take around 30 seconds.
The 4 wire one has a built in heater element to help bring the sensor up to operating temperature....the 1 wire one relies on the exhast gases to heat the sensor, therefore taking longer.
If you pick the wrong wire on the 4 wire sensor, you can/will fuqk up the sensor. They ain't cheap.
If you have a 1 wire O2 sensor, it will take around 1-2 minutes for the lights on the gauge to start moving (depending how quickly the sensor heats up).....if you have the 4 wire one, it will take around 30 seconds.
The 4 wire one has a built in heater element to help bring the sensor up to operating temperature....the 1 wire one relies on the exhast gases to heat the sensor, therefore taking longer.
If you pick the wrong wire on the 4 wire sensor, you can/will fuqk up the sensor. They ain't cheap.
#5
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#7
A word to the wise. They look cool but achieve no real purpose, unless your O2 sensor is a 0 - 5V sensor.
Most vehicle oxygen sensors only use this as a reasonable estimation of the exhaust flow, and are most of the time not even close to the true O2 reading that can only be had through a wide-band O2 reader (on Agostino's dyno for example).
If you're going to do anything in the way of tuning, or modifying for any sort of forced induction or fuel additives, get tuned on a wide-band dyno FIRST.
Its also nearly impossible to read what the meter is doing, because by nature it bounces back and forth, even on WOT.
BTW... sorry for being out of touch the last few weeks re. car control school. I thought I had eMail notification for PMs.
Most vehicle oxygen sensors only use this as a reasonable estimation of the exhaust flow, and are most of the time not even close to the true O2 reading that can only be had through a wide-band O2 reader (on Agostino's dyno for example).
If you're going to do anything in the way of tuning, or modifying for any sort of forced induction or fuel additives, get tuned on a wide-band dyno FIRST.
Its also nearly impossible to read what the meter is doing, because by nature it bounces back and forth, even on WOT.
BTW... sorry for being out of touch the last few weeks re. car control school. I thought I had eMail notification for PMs.
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