JDM-KID

iTrader: (1)

I was trying to do the headlight warning buzzer and one of the wires hit the wrong prones and now my car want start? it wont even trun over but it does make a few clickiing noises? can any one thing of what might be wrong?

sorry if theres any type o's just super pissed right now
Thanks for the help

JDM-KID

iTrader: (1)

all the light work and stereo etc but when I turn the key nothing at all, but I just hard started it and it work but the speedo was not reading right? once I turn it off it,I tryed to start it by turning the key...nothing?

I not know what to do or where to look, anyone know of a shop in burlington/oakvile that might be able to help?

Thanks

Bradsma

PM Zeeman or ChrisV2. They run HiVelocity tuning. There located in Oakville and will get you looked after.

JDM-KID

iTrader: (1)

^ already call zeeman hes said he would have no idea what to look for/where to start?

I checked all the fuses in the car and under the hood and there all good my battery is good to so i dont know what it could be.

JDM-KID

iTrader: (1)

i just hard started it and took it for a little spin to make sure everything works and everything does work vtec kicks in etc but once i turn off the car thats it, in oder to get it started agina i'd have to hard start it, but I dont wont to do that again unless im on my way to get the car fixed.

any ideas/shops to get it look at by Im all ears

Thanks

Adair

Feel bad for the situation you're in right now. Unfortunately, Saturday night isn't the busiest time for forums, and I wish I could do something to help you out. Stay patient, and hopefully someone with the knowledge will read of your plight soon, and be able to help you out.

trunk_munkey

hard started as in bump started? (popping the clutch?)

rick10

The first thing you should do is check all the fuses, you may of blown a fuse and it may be an easy fix... Try that first and hope that its only a fuse

JDM-KID

iTrader: (1)

^ all the fuses are good, and some times when I turn the key to the on position Ill hear a few clicks from under the dash in the same area as the fuse box but thats it nothing at all from the engine ?
I really dont know what to do at this point but I hope i can get the problem fixed for cheap if now done on my own

and to the other person yes I mean by popping the clutch

rick10

You may of fried your ecu .. or maybe the main relay

However double check your fuses as I have read of people saying all fuses are good and then spending 5 days to find out they it is a blown fuse

good luck

JDM-KID

iTrader: (1)

^ ill check all the fuses again tomorrow with the help of sunlight, and I dont think its the ecu because when I did hard start it vtec kicked in, wouldn't vtec not work if I fried the ecu?

I'm thinking it might be the main rely and wont leave out the possibility of the ecu?

I think my best bet right now is to find a junkyard and try swapping a main rely from there and if it works I'll buy a new one that way I dont waste my money on it if its not the rely.


As for the ecu if I fried it would it throw codes? im not sure how to get the ecu to throw codes or how to read them but maybe it would tell me what the problem was?

Thanks again for all the help....and this is why DIY can sometimes bite you in the a$$
I feel like tim the tool man lmfao

redwards

im assuming its manual. double check the fuses, if all the fuses are good you may have fried the clutch interlock switch/relay and it sounds like youre not getting power to the starter or getting intermittent power. recheck the area you were working in for any open/cut wires make sure nothing is touching or out of place etc, then move on to testing the relay/switch with a multimeter.

i hope these wire colors are right for your car.

If you have cruise control there will be two switches at the clutch
pedal. The lower one is for the cruise (one black and one pink wire),
the one above is for the starter interlock (one black and one blue/black
wire)

The starter-interlock switch at the clutch pedal should be closed when
you press the clutch all the way down, open otherwise. This switch
grounds one side of a relay coil. If you measure the voltage between
ground and the BLU/BLK wire on the switch you should see about 12V when
you turn the key to start and do NOT step on the clutch, about 0 V under
all other conditions.

There is a clutch interlock relay at the side of the driver's foot well.
This relay will make contact when the clutch pedal is pushed AND the
ignition is in the start position. You can test this fairly easily:
Measure the voltage between ground and fuse # 18. Most automotive fuses
has recessed metal tabs on the front for easy access with voltmeter
probes. If the interlock system is working, you should see about 12V at
the fuse when you press the clutch and turn the ignition to start.

credit:Randolph from honda car forums.

trunk_munkey

Thats my answer. Sorry but i wasn't up at 1 am. Whoever Randolph is good job.

I am looking at the Honda manual right now and I think the wires are RED/BLK and BLU/BLK for your car. Use the same methods as mentioned above to test.

Did you remove any grounds during the process?

JDM-KID

iTrader: (1)

^ no but one of the buzzer wires grounded accidentally when i was tryin to make sure the positive buzzer was connected to the right prong ....guess it wasn't.

im going to start testing with the mulitimeter and will update you guys when im done.

JDM-KID

iTrader: (1)

I just got back from ct to pick up a mulitimeter and when I was driving the only things that where not working properly was the speedo and heat gauge, they would spike from time to time when I was accelerating fast.

when I got back I turned the car off and the turn the key back on and it started? so I tried it agian this time I waited 10 seconds and it started up again? so I tried it once more turn it off waited 10 seconds and she started up again????

well now its time for me to head out there with the meter and see if I can pin point the problem

rick10

sounds to me like you may have an ecu problem.. All these random problems are pointing that way ..

However, I have seen soldered joints damage when there is short. I work in aviation and we always get these pc boards with blown transistors , capacitors and sometimes even soldered joints... These on and off problems are sometimes the harder ones to find ..

good luck man!

JDM-KID

iTrader: (1)

l i just went back out since my last post and turned the key and she started right up, im thinking ecu aswell, since i don't know how to us a mulitimeter ill have to wait for my electrician buddy to give me a had later

this **** blows, I know ill never be doing an electrical diy again.

trunk_munkey

the start signal doesn't go through the ECU in that car? If the car runs fine sounds like something else. To bad you didn't live closer, I like a challenge.

rick10

first time i installed a system in my old car a blew up my new amplifier.. I wasnt carefull enough and I fried the poor amp. Ended up paying someone to fix my amp and then had my dad help me installed it.

Everytime I do electrical work i triple check , just becareful next time you do something !!

Last electrical job i did in my car was the reverse glow gauges and it took me 3 hours ( 1 hour work and 2 hour of research ) , I triple check the ground and I made sure i was using the right powerbus ..

good luck , let us know how it turns out

trunk_munkey

One thing I just noticed is the ground point that the starter relay uses, the heater and gauge cluster are tied together. Does your A/C work? The ground point (G401) is in the driver kick panel, just below the starter cut relay. Its kind of behind some harnesses. Try removing the bolt and cleaning any corrosion. Let me know how you do?