BlitzSix

So I figured I would drop my car a little...

I didn't want a big drop because it's my daily so I don't want it too low in winter, although this isn't really a bit deal, I wanted a small drop so that I can just run it on stock shocks as when you do a big drop it's best to go with aftermarket. Also didn't want to bother with getting a camber kit and what not which you need if you drop it a lot. Just wanted something easy and subtle..

So I get springs which just give a 1.3-1.5 inch drop, better than stock, and I don't have to buy all that stuff that I would need with a big drop.

So I go to put them on and can't get my stupid bolts loose to take out the shocks, spent like 2 hours doing that with no luck. I brought it to my mechanic and they are completely seized. I would need new rear lower control arms for both sides, which is like 150 for cheap ones, plus I would have to pay to install it (can't do it myself as the bolts are seized, I would need a torch etc). So at *least* 250 for that. So much for a simple drop.

I'm not gonna bother as there is no point going though all this for such a small drop. I might buy decent shocks and springs that lower it more later on so that it's worth it, but I'll still going to have to end up paying a ton of money just to drop the car. $250+ just for those control arms, $350 at least (if I go used) for shocks and springs, maybe a camber kit if I need it ($100) and an alignment ($60). So 760 just to drop it, and that's if I go with used springs and shocks which isn't the greatest idea... around a grand to drop it properly, and that's not even with coilover..

fingolfin

its a common problem
but you're prices are kinda off

call Igarage
call OptionJDM


assuming you have EK control arms are $150ish

BlitzSix

I know they're $150 for cheap ones, that's what I said, but I figured another 100 to install them since they're a pain, so 250. It's like $240ish for Skunk2 ones.

spike

Thats why i'm glad i work at a shop. $750 for that is not bad, and even with a 1.5" drop, you would need a camber kit, or you just shim the rear upper control arms. My coil overs retail for $2600 US, and i have a camber kit on the rear aswell that are $300.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

you don't have to take the shock off the control arm to change the spring. Workin on these old rusty pos civics all these years has taught my some wicked tricks.

You prolly won't need a camber kit to lower your car 1.5". Mine is lowered on tokico 1.8" drop springs and with all of the alignments i've ever had on this car, i've never needed a camber kit to have my camber set within spec.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

thats a wicked avatar spike lol

MPR

Tis...lol

BlitzSix

Hmm interesting, go on please Is there a technique to it? I imagine you undo them at the top, but then how do they come down?

Cynikal.Mindset

Truth!

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

come on, can't be giving all my secrets away on a forum.....lol.

I've lowered several civics without removing the shock from the LCA.

You can try to remove the LCA right off the car with the stock/spring still attached, the problem with this method is that it can be tricky getting the LCA to line back up with the bolt-holes when re-installing everything.

BlitzSix

Wow, okay, I had another go at it and it's just downhill. I want to drive my car off a cliff now.

I tried zeeman's way, it actually was easy. Since I sold my springs already, I bought new ones. Tokicos, 1.5 - 1.8 inch drop.

I figured out how to swing it out easily, put the spring compressors on. BUT, my goddamn nut that's at the top of the shock would not come off. I used my impact wrench (I don't have air, but those electrical ones), and it woudln't go. I sprayed liquid wrentch, I torched it for a long time, it was just STUCK. I spent hours on this. As you know, you can use an allan key to hold the thing while turning it, so I tried doing that with just hand tools. Bent two allan keys. I kept trying, and eventually the part of the shock where you put the allen key into just stripped. I wasn't ghettoing it out and using wrong sizes or anything, I got the right sizes, they were very tight, but it was just siezed so badly that it stripped.

So I was like, okay, I'll try the others. They were all like this, and all got ruined. So I was like, okay, I'll just buy some used shocks (dirt cheap) and throw them on there, and voila. Well, I got the shocks, they didn't come with top hats though. No problem, I have a 92 civic parts car so I was going to use those (since I still can't get mine off...). Of course, the bolts on my 92 Civic that I have no wasted several days on on my other car came off within two seconds with my impact gun.

So I was just trying to put the spring on the shocks I bought with my EG top hats, and seriously, **** my life. They springs aren't short enough to just put them on without spring compressors (like they were on my other car) -- no worries, I have them. Well they don't ****ing fit. They barely go in between the spring (scratched up my brand new springs real nice), BUT they're so big that they don't really fit because of the shock protector thing that's on the shock (so that the metal rod isn't exposed). So I can't even use them.

I tried to just kinda put it on the car, and jack up the shock and use that like a spring protector but no dice. It goes in on an angle and I just can't jack it up enough to put that stupid nut on the top.

I'm now gonna put everything back together, for the 50th time.

spyda5588

wow i frustrations... i've had most to all of these problems before. for the seized bolts i took it to IPC they got it out without changing the LCA. i believe they torched it and replaced the bushings and bolts...supposedly they invented this method or something like that lol. another way to do this is to drill the bolts in the center (must be dead center) starting with a small bit then workin ur way up to a bigger bit till the bolt collapses

now for the nut on top of the struts wut i did was took a vicegrip and clamped it on the shaft of the shock (under the boot) then took the impact gun and went at it and it came off. i of course replaced the shock.

both cases are frustrating and take time to fix but GL

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

this is where having a solid impact gun really helps. Even with a decent impact gun sometimes you still really have to give er hell.

spring compressors are for pussies....lol j/k

you can undo the nut on the top of the shock with the shock still installed in the car, with the LCA holding the shock in place, its not like its gunna shoot the spring anywhere or shoot the car up....lol.

If using a lowering spring you can sometimes get away with not having to use the spring compressor to assemble the spring/shocks. Don't forget to cut the bump stops.

Disclaimer: i'm not responsible for any advise I post if you screw something up

subsonic-civic

iTrader: (2)

cant an impact gun strip the threads? assuming they're still there to begin with haha. i was told to use hand tools so i dont strip the bolts when i installed my front strutbar.

Gallagher

eff it, sell the car!

d16y8

To remove anything an impact gun has a less likely chance of stripping or snapping said object because the torque blows tend to knock rust/corrosion/debris off and away. Its much easier to break/strip a seized fastener by using a 3 foot breaker bar.

Impact guns are really for removal only. They are not deigned to install things as their outputs may not be consistant and most of the time you over torque.

MPR

Yeah, impact guns will only really strip/break nuts or bolts when installing them.

I NEVER use an impact gun to tighten nuts and bolts. I usually use an air ratchet to quickly tighten then use a hand ratchet or torque wrench to fully tighten.

Impact guns are awesome and a must when trying to remove old, rusty, stubborn nuts and bolts. Don't know what I'd do without mine.

Gallagher

then why do race car pit crews use impact to install there tires when in the pit?

subsonic-civic

iTrader: (2)

D16y8, MPR, thanks.
Duly noted. ya learn something new everyday =) ahaha. yeah. i have an el cheapo electric impact gun. for wheel nuts we use it to take off the nuts, and to quickly fasten them, then we hand torque them. But those arent usually rusted out.

Gallagher, i would assume it's cause they can afford to replace the bolts before they get a chance to break, and.. well, they replace them before they break. Also for a racing pit scenario, they care more about speed. Not so much longevity of their parts.

d16y8

Because the main concern during a pit stop is speed.