Desperately need help!
23-Dec-2005, 01:22 PM
#22
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,753
Originally posted by guru404
I used the CarFax to check background. It shows clear history (no accidents, no reported thefts, etc.) but the last km recorded in October 2004 is 270,000 km. I'm ready to kill myself. The UVIP showed 70,000 (after being manually corrected, as I said).
I used the CarFax to check background. It shows clear history (no accidents, no reported thefts, etc.) but the last km recorded in October 2004 is 270,000 km. I'm ready to kill myself. The UVIP showed 70,000 (after being manually corrected, as I said).
hope something works out right
23-Dec-2005, 01:34 PM
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: the suburban ghetto of maple
Posts: 1,736
whoa man thats horrible...
all I can say is first threaten to take him to court and tell him all the regular bs like "your gonna lose, your also get charged..you and i both know it...blah blah..make it easier on both of us blah blah" just so u can try to aviod the most ****ed up thing in the world... --- the legal system.
if not take him to court and ask for your money back + fees + taxes...just hope u have recpiets...you'll probably get reimbursed for everything
all I can say is first threaten to take him to court and tell him all the regular bs like "your gonna lose, your also get charged..you and i both know it...blah blah..make it easier on both of us blah blah" just so u can try to aviod the most ****ed up thing in the world... --- the legal system.
if not take him to court and ask for your money back + fees + taxes...just hope u have recpiets...you'll probably get reimbursed for everything
28-Dec-2005, 12:27 PM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 767
1 of my friends got f*cked last time too on autotrader. We find the car. We brought it and he said something was wrong with the cluster. So he said he has repaired that and put the old 1 back on. Then he's like this and that. He didn't fix anything at all. Afterwards he put in the cluster and it was in miles. So say it has 70.000miles x 1.6 which = to too many km. But oh well. Some ppl will learn i guess.
13-Jan-2006, 01:25 AM
#28
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: North York, Toronto-Downtown, London
Posts: 2,316
keep us posted
how much did you actually bought the car for?
you should inspect the body... if the body is really all good, then the motor problem isn't too big... you can always find a d-series motor for 500-700 bux later.... its all about if the body is rusty or not, any bondo or not... take a pic of the engine bay, it might not be rust you saw, it might be dirty and color fading or something...
also, we all somehow experience this in our life (atleast i'm one of them before), and you just have to learn from experience. there's two true facts right here... that guy is selling you a car that he isn't the owner of... this might hold something up against him.
second, get the car reinspected by a certified mech again to see if its really safetied... if not, you can **** up the mechanic who certified the car when you bought it... you should still have a yellow copy of that safetied certificate... there should be the mechanic name on that paper... you can own that guy big time! (but they might still be able to say coz you've driven the car, so you might have wear out some of the parts). but that's the two fact you can argue about...
remember next time, when you buy car, make sure you run the vin beforehand...
however, there can be typo somehow... carfax shows 270,000, uvip shows 70,000... carfax might have a typo... or maybe uvip has a typo.... does anyone have ideas on how to correct this?
can you send in your uvip proofs to carfax, and maybe have carfax fix their error? or can you have carfax proofs and show it to the ministry to update the record?
but anyhow, if that guy is trying to BS you off, there must be something wrong with him... this was a fishy deal to begin with...
how much did you pay btw?
how much did you actually bought the car for?
you should inspect the body... if the body is really all good, then the motor problem isn't too big... you can always find a d-series motor for 500-700 bux later.... its all about if the body is rusty or not, any bondo or not... take a pic of the engine bay, it might not be rust you saw, it might be dirty and color fading or something...
also, we all somehow experience this in our life (atleast i'm one of them before), and you just have to learn from experience. there's two true facts right here... that guy is selling you a car that he isn't the owner of... this might hold something up against him.
second, get the car reinspected by a certified mech again to see if its really safetied... if not, you can **** up the mechanic who certified the car when you bought it... you should still have a yellow copy of that safetied certificate... there should be the mechanic name on that paper... you can own that guy big time! (but they might still be able to say coz you've driven the car, so you might have wear out some of the parts). but that's the two fact you can argue about...
remember next time, when you buy car, make sure you run the vin beforehand...
however, there can be typo somehow... carfax shows 270,000, uvip shows 70,000... carfax might have a typo... or maybe uvip has a typo.... does anyone have ideas on how to correct this?
can you send in your uvip proofs to carfax, and maybe have carfax fix their error? or can you have carfax proofs and show it to the ministry to update the record?
but anyhow, if that guy is trying to BS you off, there must be something wrong with him... this was a fishy deal to begin with...
how much did you pay btw?
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