Civic EJ6 DD/track build
25-Jun-2009, 11:43 PM
#1
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Civic EJ6 DD/track build
Well I have finally acquired a civic after going to a few tcc meets and co-workers telling me its the only way or GTFO! lol In any case if no one knows I picked up a 1996 civic sedan. Now i'm going for a daily driver and track build [time attack, not drag]. So where should i start? Engine is a D16Y7 and 5spd, this thing is bone stock inc.intake and exhaust! I'm a little lost as to where i should start dropping money. Any insight would be good.
Last edited by poy; 25-Jun-2009 at 11:52 PM.
26-Jun-2009, 08:54 AM
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26-Jun-2009, 10:54 AM
#9
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Full coil overs, the hell with springs and struts combo. If your going to the track you want full coil over, that way you can adjust the damper on the strut to feel how you want it to be, plus you can adjust the hight of the car. Normal lowering springs you can't.
26-Jun-2009, 11:49 AM
#10
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^^ full coilovers for sure. You can find some stiff springs but you will be stuck with the way they are. Coilovers you can adjust which ever way it works for you. And should get all strut bars/sway bars to prevent body roll.
Also don't forget tires, should get some something like falken rt615 would work great.
Also don't forget tires, should get some something like falken rt615 would work great.
26-Jun-2009, 12:30 PM
#11
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my adice, being that i've been in a similar situation
don't get 1 piece coilovers...
why?
because you're still going to do the majority of your driving on the streets.. and 1 piece coils SUCK on the street.
I've never been in a car that have 1 peice thats impressed me... the ride has always been stiff as hell.
Get a new 2 piece if you can.. ofcourse this will be argued, but this is from my personal experience on/off track.
also forget the engine for now... tighten up the suspension.
Trybal seems to be right on the ball with his post...
whats the point of having all that power if you can't turn for the life of you. get a smaller diameter steering wheel if you can... you're thank me after your first track day
don't get 1 piece coilovers...
why?
because you're still going to do the majority of your driving on the streets.. and 1 piece coils SUCK on the street.
I've never been in a car that have 1 peice thats impressed me... the ride has always been stiff as hell.
Get a new 2 piece if you can.. ofcourse this will be argued, but this is from my personal experience on/off track.
also forget the engine for now... tighten up the suspension.
Trybal seems to be right on the ball with his post...
whats the point of having all that power if you can't turn for the life of you. get a smaller diameter steering wheel if you can... you're thank me after your first track day
26-Jun-2009, 10:42 PM
#12
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Posts: 730
Yeah i would start with the suspension and tires 1st than move on to your exhaust and finally after that go for the motor.
Me on the other hand, ive always done the interior and motor on all my cars and exhaust. Ive never done aftermarket suspension other than sway bars cause i love to keep the car stock on the outside but fast underneath.
Me on the other hand, ive always done the interior and motor on all my cars and exhaust. Ive never done aftermarket suspension other than sway bars cause i love to keep the car stock on the outside but fast underneath.
29-Jun-2009, 01:14 PM
#15
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Posts: 58
Honestly, the best place to spend your money is on seat time. Leave the engine until it breaks, leave the suspension for as long as you stand it, don't mess with the exhaust just yet and just get your rear end out onto the track as much and as often as you can.
Drag racing tends to be more of a competition of who has the faster car and smarter mechanic than who the driver is. Don't get me wrong, driving skill is still a key factor, but once you get to an amateur, semi-pro and pro levels - all the reaction times are pretty close and becomes a race of who has the better prepared car. As a budding driver, you should learn to launch with low grip tires and practice your reaction times and shifting. You can't expect to just show up and expect to be as fast as a more experienced driver because you'll just get frustrated and give up early. So get as much experience as you can as quickly as you can, then adjust the car's handling and power. Practice car control at low speeds so when the speeds go up, you keep yourself from doing a Richard Hammon.
For track driving the advice is the same. Get out to the track as often as you can and get experienced drivers to sit with you as often as you can. Also get as many different instructors in the car as you can. Try everything the instructors tell you but only use what works best for your driving style. Solo2, auto slalom or Autocross (AutoX) you can run your car as it is with just basic maintenance. It's cheap and they offer instructing too which you should take ask for, insist apon and learn from. The HADA auto slalom series is a good place to start: http://www.hadamotorsport.com/?page_id=3 The speeds are low, you learn car control and best of all you don't risk losing your car.
For higher speed track duty braking is far more important and stock brake pads and fluid won't last your more than 5 laps at a time. A dedicated track pad like a Hawk Blue mated to a solid blank rotor - don't use slotted or cross-drilled for track use - and like a motul high temp brake fluid. If your brake lines are new, then no point racing to change them up, but if they aren't get SS lines in as soon as you can. Once your tires are used up get a street tire like an azenis. Once you're ready, upgrade to an R-compound. Right now I'm running a full slick but I don't recommend those to new drivers since they're temperamental, high wear, expensive but mostly they hide really bad driving. A poor stock handling car exaggerates your mistakes so you can fix them early.
I don't think there is any point in adding speed or improving handling if your skill level can only bring out a portion of the car's potential ability. Best thing to do is spend a season or 2 trying to get as close as you can to the car's limit then change handling. Seat time first. Handling, grip and power go later. You'll thank me later, been teaching young budding racers for years now and my advice is always the same.
Drag racing tends to be more of a competition of who has the faster car and smarter mechanic than who the driver is. Don't get me wrong, driving skill is still a key factor, but once you get to an amateur, semi-pro and pro levels - all the reaction times are pretty close and becomes a race of who has the better prepared car. As a budding driver, you should learn to launch with low grip tires and practice your reaction times and shifting. You can't expect to just show up and expect to be as fast as a more experienced driver because you'll just get frustrated and give up early. So get as much experience as you can as quickly as you can, then adjust the car's handling and power. Practice car control at low speeds so when the speeds go up, you keep yourself from doing a Richard Hammon.
For track driving the advice is the same. Get out to the track as often as you can and get experienced drivers to sit with you as often as you can. Also get as many different instructors in the car as you can. Try everything the instructors tell you but only use what works best for your driving style. Solo2, auto slalom or Autocross (AutoX) you can run your car as it is with just basic maintenance. It's cheap and they offer instructing too which you should take ask for, insist apon and learn from. The HADA auto slalom series is a good place to start: http://www.hadamotorsport.com/?page_id=3 The speeds are low, you learn car control and best of all you don't risk losing your car.
For higher speed track duty braking is far more important and stock brake pads and fluid won't last your more than 5 laps at a time. A dedicated track pad like a Hawk Blue mated to a solid blank rotor - don't use slotted or cross-drilled for track use - and like a motul high temp brake fluid. If your brake lines are new, then no point racing to change them up, but if they aren't get SS lines in as soon as you can. Once your tires are used up get a street tire like an azenis. Once you're ready, upgrade to an R-compound. Right now I'm running a full slick but I don't recommend those to new drivers since they're temperamental, high wear, expensive but mostly they hide really bad driving. A poor stock handling car exaggerates your mistakes so you can fix them early.
I don't think there is any point in adding speed or improving handling if your skill level can only bring out a portion of the car's potential ability. Best thing to do is spend a season or 2 trying to get as close as you can to the car's limit then change handling. Seat time first. Handling, grip and power go later. You'll thank me later, been teaching young budding racers for years now and my advice is always the same.
Last edited by RRRex; 29-Jun-2009 at 01:18 PM.
29-Jun-2009, 04:36 PM
#16
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Posts: 58
!!! Agincourt Autohaus Grand Prix - Solosprint MIR School July 4, 5 2009 !!! - CASC Ontario Region Message Forums
^^ Here's a school I'll be teaching this weekend - seems spots are still available. Mosport is not for the meek, full of blind corners and intimidating walls, but is a world class track like no other and an absolute thrill to drive on. Lapping days can run in the 400-600 there, so it's a great value. It's easy on tires and brakes but a long uphill back straight is hard on drivetrains. Make sure you go with fresh oil and a good helmet.
^^ Here's a school I'll be teaching this weekend - seems spots are still available. Mosport is not for the meek, full of blind corners and intimidating walls, but is a world class track like no other and an absolute thrill to drive on. Lapping days can run in the 400-600 there, so it's a great value. It's easy on tires and brakes but a long uphill back straight is hard on drivetrains. Make sure you go with fresh oil and a good helmet.
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