20hp?!?
26-Aug-2003, 07:54 PM
#22
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Join Date: Jan 2003
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Originally posted by lordm
they lie a resistor is basicly what it sounds like. it resist's things so how could this be in any way a power booster
they lie a resistor is basicly what it sounds like. it resist's things so how could this be in any way a power booster
26-Aug-2003, 09:06 PM
#24
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Montreal
Posts: 4,508
its a small resistor from radio shack...a pack of 5 sells for 30 cents i beleive, (you are paying for an idea on ebay, u get the resistor, but you are really just paing for an idea, and instructions) Ill save you the money and tell you for free what all these people are selling...then u can decide weheather its worth trying...
what you do is plugg it into your intake air sensor plugg, in place of the actual sensor....The IAS works as a resistor: the colder the air in the intake tube the more resistance it creates, sending the signal to your ecu in turn adjusting your fuel flow and ignition timing(same thing a chip does)... when the resistor is in place it tricks your ecu into thinking there is ice cold air inside your intake tube... run 92+ octane (a must, let it get into the system) with it and your car will feel peppy all the time, just like when you first start it up in the morning...Top end is better too...some people may say its just a placebo, but ive seen lots of dyno graphs and ive seen it tested in magazeens allong time ago.... It works Ive tryed it, but I have removed it cuz of
A: Fuel milage decreaces
B: Nitrous Oxide... advanceing timing on No2 is a very bad thing...
Ill try and find out the particular resistor code your need if you feel like trying it...its compleately harmless trust me, it wont even through a check engin light...it takes less than 2 minuits to install or uninstall... I used to pull it out when traveling to save gas, its that easy...
Oh one other thing theres no such thing as miracles... 20hp is total bullshit expect 5-10hp and maybe throttle response...
Let the Flameing begin:P
what you do is plugg it into your intake air sensor plugg, in place of the actual sensor....The IAS works as a resistor: the colder the air in the intake tube the more resistance it creates, sending the signal to your ecu in turn adjusting your fuel flow and ignition timing(same thing a chip does)... when the resistor is in place it tricks your ecu into thinking there is ice cold air inside your intake tube... run 92+ octane (a must, let it get into the system) with it and your car will feel peppy all the time, just like when you first start it up in the morning...Top end is better too...some people may say its just a placebo, but ive seen lots of dyno graphs and ive seen it tested in magazeens allong time ago.... It works Ive tryed it, but I have removed it cuz of
A: Fuel milage decreaces
B: Nitrous Oxide... advanceing timing on No2 is a very bad thing...
Ill try and find out the particular resistor code your need if you feel like trying it...its compleately harmless trust me, it wont even through a check engin light...it takes less than 2 minuits to install or uninstall... I used to pull it out when traveling to save gas, its that easy...
Oh one other thing theres no such thing as miracles... 20hp is total bullshit expect 5-10hp and maybe throttle response...
Let the Flameing begin:P
27-Aug-2003, 05:51 AM
#27
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: With the girl that your looking at in my sig!!
Posts: 2,726
Originally posted by BoOsTZeX
its a small resistor from radio shack...a pack of 5 sells for 30 cents i beleive, (you are paying for an idea on ebay, u get the resistor, but you are really just paing for an idea, and instructions) Ill save you the money and tell you for free what all these people are selling...then u can decide weheather its worth trying...
what you do is plugg it into your intake air sensor plugg, in place of the actual sensor....The IAS works as a resistor: the colder the air in the intake tube the more resistance it creates, sending the signal to your ecu in turn adjusting your fuel flow and ignition timing(same thing a chip does)... when the resistor is in place it tricks your ecu into thinking there is ice cold air inside your intake tube... run 92+ octane (a must, let it get into the system) with it and your car will feel peppy all the time, just like when you first start it up in the morning...Top end is better too...some people may say its just a placebo, but ive seen lots of dyno graphs and ive seen it tested in magazeens allong time ago.... It works Ive tryed it, but I have removed it cuz of
A: Fuel milage decreaces
B: Nitrous Oxide... advanceing timing on No2 is a very bad thing...
Ill try and find out the particular resistor code your need if you feel like trying it...its compleately harmless trust me, it wont even through a check engin light...it takes less than 2 minuits to install or uninstall... I used to pull it out when traveling to save gas, its that easy...
Oh one other thing theres no such thing as miracles... 20hp is total bullshit expect 5-10hp and maybe throttle response...
Let the Flameing begin:P
its a small resistor from radio shack...a pack of 5 sells for 30 cents i beleive, (you are paying for an idea on ebay, u get the resistor, but you are really just paing for an idea, and instructions) Ill save you the money and tell you for free what all these people are selling...then u can decide weheather its worth trying...
what you do is plugg it into your intake air sensor plugg, in place of the actual sensor....The IAS works as a resistor: the colder the air in the intake tube the more resistance it creates, sending the signal to your ecu in turn adjusting your fuel flow and ignition timing(same thing a chip does)... when the resistor is in place it tricks your ecu into thinking there is ice cold air inside your intake tube... run 92+ octane (a must, let it get into the system) with it and your car will feel peppy all the time, just like when you first start it up in the morning...Top end is better too...some people may say its just a placebo, but ive seen lots of dyno graphs and ive seen it tested in magazeens allong time ago.... It works Ive tryed it, but I have removed it cuz of
A: Fuel milage decreaces
B: Nitrous Oxide... advanceing timing on No2 is a very bad thing...
Ill try and find out the particular resistor code your need if you feel like trying it...its compleately harmless trust me, it wont even through a check engin light...it takes less than 2 minuits to install or uninstall... I used to pull it out when traveling to save gas, its that easy...
Oh one other thing theres no such thing as miracles... 20hp is total bullshit expect 5-10hp and maybe throttle response...
Let the Flameing begin:P
And yes fuel milage goes down.
28-Aug-2003, 03:36 PM
#33
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: on a race track
Posts: 17,846
Originally posted by BoOsTZeX
3.3K ohm 12W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk5
Im pretty sure thats the one, ill verify it tomorow
3.3K ohm 12W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk5
Im pretty sure thats the one, ill verify it tomorow
anyways do you have any specs on the resistance range of the sensor your speaking about
29-Aug-2003, 10:41 AM
#39
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Montreal
Posts: 4,508
well I cant post a pick of it... so ill explain..
the proper resistor I used has four colour lines on it...
Gold, red, orange, thicker orange..
in that order...also the resistor is a peachy, or beige colour... whether its a 3.3K ohm 12W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk5
or not, im not 100% sure...
go by my colour code, it will be right 100% sure...
the proper resistor I used has four colour lines on it...
Gold, red, orange, thicker orange..
in that order...also the resistor is a peachy, or beige colour... whether its a 3.3K ohm 12W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk5
or not, im not 100% sure...
go by my colour code, it will be right 100% sure...
29-Aug-2003, 10:49 AM
#40
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: on a race track
Posts: 17,846
ok dude you got the resistor the wrong way around ...
correct (electronics engineering color code) would be:
orange (thickness is meaningless) orange red gold
3 3 x100 5%
reading that code says it's a 3.3Kohm 5% but I highly doubt the wattage ratting 12W resistors are in a white casing that disapates the heat created....and carbon film resistors are never that high in wattage so I'd recommend a 1/4 watt to a 1/2 watt should be find since current is not an issue ....
correct (electronics engineering color code) would be:
orange (thickness is meaningless) orange red gold
3 3 x100 5%
reading that code says it's a 3.3Kohm 5% but I highly doubt the wattage ratting 12W resistors are in a white casing that disapates the heat created....and carbon film resistors are never that high in wattage so I'd recommend a 1/4 watt to a 1/2 watt should be find since current is not an issue ....
