mikepasini

My ek is going back on the road and I was wondering for some input on important things to do before driving it again...

its a 96 ek hatch with a b18c1 and jdm gsr LSD tranny

I just stopped driving it from a few tickets and plates expired (need a cat for emissions, etc).... anyway, its not been driven since around end of july or so...

before putting it away, i did a full tune-up (plugs, wires, dizzy cap/rotor), changed the brakes and rotors, bled my clutch and brake lines as it was just stuff I was doing without expecting to put my car away. also someone told me my calipers would be siezed prob as well.

I was going to change the oil right away, but after should I just start it and drive or should I change other stuff such as rad fluid, brake/clutch fluid/, etc etc. Thanks guys!


O man i miss VTEC...

spike

You should be fine driving it. the calipers should not be siezed, but you should be fine to drive it. most likey all you need is the e-test to get your sticker.

chris_v2

I guess 6 months of moisture buildup will do nothing do those sliders eh?

Clean up your sliders at the very least and i bet your rotors have alot of surface rust as well, would be a good idea to do rotors all around (depending on how bad they are rusted). But at the very least clean and lube up your brakes. Calipers might be seized, might not be, they will definately be a bit sticky at first though.

mikepasini

I put ebc green stuff pads and the ebc import (copper colour) slotted and dimpled rotors and didn't even get chance to bed them in...

the rotors were 200 and the pads like 70 so id rather not have to replace them... the rotors aren't too rusted... but its there for sure... should I just resurface them and with the rust am I gonna kill the pads since well it they havent even bedded in yet.

all the stuff was done and I put maybe 50 kms on the car since the brakes were on. everything was lubed well... would I be going overkill relubing it and cleaning it (im assuming it wouldn't be too dirty since it was barely used)

thanks again in advance for the help

viper_2_4

did it sit outside or inside?

chris_v2

Your brakes will function perfectly fine with a small layer of rust over the rotors because it will just fade away after a few braking applications. But it will cause premature wear. So if you have a friend at a shop who can maybe cut 4 rotors for cheap then i would definately do it. But is it necessary, no.

Doesnt matter if you just lubed them, your car sat for a long time and all that moisture build up is there. They may or may not be seized, i dont know, but its a good idea to re lubricate and clean them up, it only takes a few minutes anyways.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

you can't resurface cross drilled or slotted rotors

k_r_a_c_k_e_r

iTrader: (3)

I didint think you could.

fingolfin

x 3

just drive it and start by braking very lightly and go from there. maybe once all the rust is off your brakes will be ok. Maybe not.
I know people who live in cuba for 6 months (winter time) and come back here and their cars are ok, but they store them inside in a dry garage.

just test it out and see how it goes

mikepasini

ok. is it just cross drilled or slotted as well because mine aren't drilled they are just dimples if that makes any dfference... the pads im not too too concerned about I guess since they are cheaper but as long as the rotors wll be good.

alright so i'll pull the brakes apart again andclean it all out. should I try to clean up the rotors as well?

oh. also... the car was only outside from august to about early oct and then I put it in the garage since about mid-october until still now so any freezing temperatures weve had and snow its been in the garage.

ohhh... andrew how's it going by the way and Im not sure if its the same chris but whts up if it is and thanks again... btw zeeman... if you might have a chip I could run for my etest maybe a b16 or something that would run a tad leaner? I was going to just slap in a stock computer andsee how it goes.

Fr0z3N

I left my civic with ebc green pads and ebc dimpled and slotted rotors for 4 months, they built up some rust but towing it to a shop with my 4x4 and someone sitting in my civic and the rust on the brakes were gone so I wouldn't worry about it

mikepasini

hmmmmmmm... any ideas guys on the the other cpl questions i asked?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

ideally you want to run the proper program for the engine. Running leaner doesn't necessarily mean less emissions, especially if the wrong timing values are being used (like if you used a b16 program on your GSR), you could actually be burning less of the air/fuel mixture since the ignition timing isn't right thus increasing the amount of emissions.
Make sure you have a working EVAP purge solenoid and the charcoal cannister hooked up properly, a working cat and a double check on the ignition system....like the timing set properly on the dizzy, spark plugs in good condition, spark plug wires aren't arcing or really worn out, dizzy cap and rotor are in good shape and the PCV valve is still OK and some clean oil. And get it good and hot before taking it in for the etest and run the proper fuel grade (not 94 octane) IMO.