dvdrsi

Hi all,


When the car is rolling, I can hear the rotors grinding. At this point, would the car need new rotors and pads or can the rotors be re-machined? Can a stuck e-brake cause this issue? How do I determine if the rotors and pads are bad?

Heres a few pics of the rotors..

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/ddzc/IMG_2092.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/ddzc/IMG_2094.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/ddzc/IMG_2096.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/ddzc/IMG_2097.jpg


Thanks

black_and_orange

for what it will cost you buy new pads and rotors

dvdrsi

I was going to do that. Can this issue be a seized caliper? Any way I can test this?


Thanks

93si

I am pretty sure if it's seized, you would not be able to spin the wheel while the car is in the air.

madness1

Honda discs are famous for the inside pad sticking...thus wearing out. The outer pad in your pics still have wear, but the rotors look pretty old and grooved.
I would suggest you replace pads and rotors and make sure the slide pins are not stuck.
Do it right the first time. Hope this helps.

dvdrsi

Hey all,

I took apart everything..cleaned the caliper, seals, piston, etc of all the dirt and grime,re-lubed everything. I put brand new rotors and pads on it..I noticed on the RR grinding side, one pad had like 50% and the other was on the metal..looks like that was the primary reason for the grinding. This is for the rear disk brakes BTW.

Anyway, I put it all together, bled the rear brakes and the car runs perfect now.

My question is...is it highly recommended to also bleed the front brakes, even though I serviced the rear brakes only? I got a lot of mixed up results when talking to people...the car runs perfect and the brakes stop on the dime as it is right now..I never bled the fronts.

Thanks

ol Dusty

iTrader: (2)

you should bleed the fronts too. if nothing else at least it'll flush the lines. you should prolly flush out all the fluid and replace it with fresh stuff.