243 WHP in my 97 civic hatch *brakes solution*
#1
243 WHP in my 97 civic hatch *brakes solution*
hey guys my motor tuned and dyno'd at 243 whp now my car is a 1997 civic hatch with acura rear disk brakes and over sized front rotors (this is the car im installing it in its in a civic with 5 bolt 4 wheel disk) im already scared that the brakes on my car will not be sufficient enough for this kind of power besides making the 5 bolt conversion what are my other options? type R brake booster will that help much ? or any ?
#5
Don't bother with 5 bolt. Do the Type R caliper front brake upgrade. Get an aggressive pad like Ferodo DS2500 and you'll be good to go with a mid to high grade quality rotor. Type R brake booster helps tremendously with pedal feel. Braided lines will help that feel too.
What 'sucks' about your brakes?
What 'sucks' about your brakes?
#6
I have braided lines on my brakes ,what sucks about my braking is my brakes lock up pretty easily at times its better for me to run a red light than squeel and stop half way in the intersection yeah its pathetic either that or im jus used to having abs ......so witht he type r caliper and brake booster n a good pad it makes that much of a difference?
#12
I'm with RegaMaro...
Don't aim big on your braking....It seems your braking is working fine cos they're gripping.
Its the Tire grip on the road that's letting you down.
I've ran stock calipers with Ferodo pads on my dedicated track car for over 6yrs.
Annual caliper service, regular brakefluid flush & not stomping on the pedal like its a cockroach helps tremendously with slowing you down without locking up.
Don't aim big on your braking....It seems your braking is working fine cos they're gripping.
Its the Tire grip on the road that's letting you down.
I've ran stock calipers with Ferodo pads on my dedicated track car for over 6yrs.
Annual caliper service, regular brakefluid flush & not stomping on the pedal like its a cockroach helps tremendously with slowing you down without locking up.
#14
its not my tires cause i had the same problem with my winter tires i think maybe im a lil too heavy on the brake pedal im gona get the brake booster and maybe upgrade to type R calipers and get the rotors and pads suggested above hopefully that helps lol
p.s. anyone wanna buy a B20 vtec motor tranny computer etc....fresh rebuilt runs amazing let me know...thanks for the info guys keep it up if you have more suggestions
p.s. anyone wanna buy a B20 vtec motor tranny computer etc....fresh rebuilt runs amazing let me know...thanks for the info guys keep it up if you have more suggestions
#17
its not my tires cause i had the same problem with my winter tires
In dry/summer conditions, I wouldn't expect winters to offer better grip compared to your summer tires. If you have a buddy with better tires (brand/rating), thats willing to lend you for about a half hr or so, you'll be able to test my theory.
Wel, that's just my opinion.
You can go ahead & do the upgrades anyway
#18
I have on falkens 205 40R 17 s im gonna test it out today ive had em on for a month now but im trying to sell the motor so i dont want people seeing me beating my car and thinking i beat the hell otu of it all the time...ill keep you posted
#19
Tyres are the only part of your car that (under conventional circumstances) touches the road. You say you have Falken tyres, but which model?
Tyres should be the very first upgrade, ANYONE makes before building ANY modification into their car.
The tyre choice dictates the overall eventual level of grip and allows you to then appropriately size brakes, select suspension and associated spring/bar rates and damper settings, optimize balance (through weight reduction/ballasting) and FINALLY by targeting a desired engine output.
From what I gather, you're not so interested in actually being legitimately quick, but rather, in being able to tell your friends that you have a 200+whp fwd car on some half-hearted performance rubber.
On a note for braking correctly, you should be doing the hardest part of your braking in the EARLIEST phase of the braking zone (conventionally speaking) when the wheels and car have the greatest amount of kinetic energy to turn into heat. As my old team boss used to tell me, it's very difficult to lock up the tyres at high speed, very easy to lock them at low speed.
Blowing through red lights is beyond dangerous, I know you could probably care less about killing yourself, but your passengers or the mother with two small children crossing the road probably don't want to become hood ornaments on your busted ricer. There are no trophies available on the street.
As a final note, and kind of a reward as I doubt you had the attention span to read the above. You probably just need the correct prop valve.
Tyres should be the very first upgrade, ANYONE makes before building ANY modification into their car.
The tyre choice dictates the overall eventual level of grip and allows you to then appropriately size brakes, select suspension and associated spring/bar rates and damper settings, optimize balance (through weight reduction/ballasting) and FINALLY by targeting a desired engine output.
From what I gather, you're not so interested in actually being legitimately quick, but rather, in being able to tell your friends that you have a 200+whp fwd car on some half-hearted performance rubber.
On a note for braking correctly, you should be doing the hardest part of your braking in the EARLIEST phase of the braking zone (conventionally speaking) when the wheels and car have the greatest amount of kinetic energy to turn into heat. As my old team boss used to tell me, it's very difficult to lock up the tyres at high speed, very easy to lock them at low speed.
Blowing through red lights is beyond dangerous, I know you could probably care less about killing yourself, but your passengers or the mother with two small children crossing the road probably don't want to become hood ornaments on your busted ricer. There are no trophies available on the street.
As a final note, and kind of a reward as I doubt you had the attention span to read the above. You probably just need the correct prop valve.
#20
Well I made a comment about mr Sundown here and i guess ( from the warning T.C.C gave me ) its not acceptable that I leave my address so we can personally meet about our differences........
on a final note : gotta love haters E.A.D
on a final note : gotta love haters E.A.D
Last edited by UNCLE_DADDY0911; 15-Sep-2011 at 05:00 PM.