upper balljoint and CV boot/shaft
22-Aug-2008, 07:12 AM
#1
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upper balljoint and CV boot/shaft
i went to get an oil change at active green and ross but took some (useless) maintenance package where they would check brakes, electricals, hoses, topping up of fluids, tire rotation and of course oil change. (40$+5 cuz i use 5w30).
they found my driver side upper balljoint to be a lil loose, and some leaking around the edge of the CV boot. they quoted just the balljoint for 3 bills. i told them to f* off. then the rear right drum brake wheel cylinder was leaking a lil bit and the brake shoes apparently where worn out. now, i'm pretty sure i can work out the drums on my own and order parts from rockauto.com (friend of mine told me they got the best prices, so check that out). i just don't know what to order exactly from there. should i get the spring kit for the drums as well?
and now for the big question. how hard is it and what special tools do you need to change just the upper ball joint. which part to get? and what would require replacing regarding the CV shaft(as they said) problem. im thinking it's the boot...or that it needs a rebuilt, maybe a new boot. or is it better to get the whole shaft?
i got a 97 LX.
thank u thank u thank u
they found my driver side upper balljoint to be a lil loose, and some leaking around the edge of the CV boot. they quoted just the balljoint for 3 bills. i told them to f* off. then the rear right drum brake wheel cylinder was leaking a lil bit and the brake shoes apparently where worn out. now, i'm pretty sure i can work out the drums on my own and order parts from rockauto.com (friend of mine told me they got the best prices, so check that out). i just don't know what to order exactly from there. should i get the spring kit for the drums as well?
and now for the big question. how hard is it and what special tools do you need to change just the upper ball joint. which part to get? and what would require replacing regarding the CV shaft(as they said) problem. im thinking it's the boot...or that it needs a rebuilt, maybe a new boot. or is it better to get the whole shaft?
i got a 97 LX.
thank u thank u thank u
22-Aug-2008, 07:35 AM
#2
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 910
I would buy a new wheel cylinder, and a rebuilt CV shaft. Don't mess around with boots. Sure you'll be saving a few $$, but it's just not worth it in the end.
Remember you have to bleed brakes (simple, but easy to **** up) after you change a wheel cylinder.
To remove a ball joint a pickle fork and a big hammer are you friends.
Remember you have to bleed brakes (simple, but easy to **** up) after you change a wheel cylinder.
To remove a ball joint a pickle fork and a big hammer are you friends.
22-Aug-2008, 10:26 AM
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 910
No. I'm saying you need tools. You can't change a ball joint with a simple socket set. However the wheel cylinder could be tricky since YOU WILL HAVE TO BLEED the BRAKES afterwards.
Doing a CV is simple, but once again you need tools. ie. unbolt the lower ball joint, un fasten the huge nut on the cv shaft, empty your transmission (or you'll have a mess), pry bar, out comes the old shaft. Now hopefully your seal doesn't leak. Install the new shaft in reverse order.
Doing a CV is simple, but once again you need tools. ie. unbolt the lower ball joint, un fasten the huge nut on the cv shaft, empty your transmission (or you'll have a mess), pry bar, out comes the old shaft. Now hopefully your seal doesn't leak. Install the new shaft in reverse order.
22-Aug-2008, 11:13 AM
#6
chris_v2 is a mechanic, I'm sure he'd do it for a reasonable price if he's got time.
upper ball joint is really easy, just replace the upper control arm. no need for a pick fork, all you need is a mini sledge (and maybe some heat if it's real bad). 3 bolts hold it in, 2 on the strut tower and 1 on the balljoint itself. wheel cylinder, it's not too bad if the line isn't seized on there. then just bleeding the brakes (i'd recommend a flush and fill of fluid as well). but i hate working on drum brakes, it's a pain in the *** cuz of all the springs and stuff. and no, you prolly won't need a spring kit. the CV joint can be a little tricky, get the axle for canadian tire (cheapest place i found) and you will need a 32 mm socket and the mini sledge hammer again... and a pry bar (not supposed to pull on the axle, supposed to use the pry bar to pry the inner joint away from the tranny case.
just grab a haynes or chilton manual, it's all in there with good pics and everything.
upper ball joint is really easy, just replace the upper control arm. no need for a pick fork, all you need is a mini sledge (and maybe some heat if it's real bad). 3 bolts hold it in, 2 on the strut tower and 1 on the balljoint itself. wheel cylinder, it's not too bad if the line isn't seized on there. then just bleeding the brakes (i'd recommend a flush and fill of fluid as well). but i hate working on drum brakes, it's a pain in the *** cuz of all the springs and stuff. and no, you prolly won't need a spring kit. the CV joint can be a little tricky, get the axle for canadian tire (cheapest place i found) and you will need a 32 mm socket and the mini sledge hammer again... and a pry bar (not supposed to pull on the axle, supposed to use the pry bar to pry the inner joint away from the tranny case.
just grab a haynes or chilton manual, it's all in there with good pics and everything.
22-Aug-2008, 01:42 PM
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Etobicoke
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yea got a haynes but it's not extremely detailed. i should check the mechanic's manual as well. it's just that spending money on tools might not make it worth it. it's my lack of experience that worries me but if i have to, i have to. thanks for the help guys, i appreciate it. if anybody actually has some extra time and could help me out maybe for a reasonable reward, let me know. if not...im gonna have to grab the bull by the horns. heh..
22-Aug-2008, 03:09 PM
#8
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 73
take it to a mechanic to do it. there's a reason why they charge the price they do. it's not because they're a rip off. since you drive a 97 civic i'm sure that upper bj is pretty comfortable up there and will put up quite a fight to come out. last thing you want is for the castle nut to get stuck and starts spinning with the bj while you're trying to get it out.
22-Aug-2008, 03:57 PM
#9
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upper control arms are the easiest things to get out...I can do both sides in under an hour with hand tools...like c'mon...some things its worth going to a mechanic for and some are easy enough to do at home...unless you are like canada's worst handymen
23-Aug-2008, 08:24 AM
#11
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pfaff
Posts: 1,560
I should just try and make some money and say come to me.. but whatever.
Upper ball joint: i would recommend buying the whole arm, instead of pressing a b/j in and out. The 300$ quote was pretty high.. but they probably quoted the most expensive arm they can find. I've seen control arms go for 200-220$ customer cost. Anyways.. since you didn't say what side it is.. i'll quickly explain both. Pass. side you have to remove the battery, there are 14mm bolts on the strut tower on the sides. on the d/s side I'm pretty sure you have to just remove your cruise control (3 10mm bolts) just move it to the side to access the 14mm bolt. On each gen. civic its different, and I'm trying to remember 6th gens, but I'm prety sure there is a nut on the inside facing the strut, should be a 17mm. Put a wrench on there while ratcheting the bolt from outside the strut tower. Now, I should of mentioned the next part first, since it should be done before you remove the 14mm bolts. But you need to remove the cotter pin from the upper bj, remove the 17mm nut (oh and don't worry if you cant get the cotter pin completely out if its rusted, just cut it enough to get the wrench on it, then just take off the nut) Then get a BFH and swing at the knuckle untill it seperates from the bj. If this doesn't work, get a friend with a pry bar to pry up on the control arm while you take hard swings at the knuckle (were the stud of the bj goes thru) If that doesn't work.. you'll need a pickle fork ($20 at c/t). For install.. just reverse.
wheel cylinder: Remove the drum, i think there are two set screws on the drum, so get a punch and knock them loose then remove with a philips driver. First you want to remove the rear brake line. Should be a 10mm, i would use a LINE wrench for this to reduce chance of rounded off the rusted flare nut. Actually first.. i would let it soak for awhile in a good grade wd40 (i recommend moovit) Crack the nut loose, make sure the line is not twisting as you loosen the nut, if it is.. try heating up the nut for a while with a propane torch, then work the nut untill it breaks free. Next just remove the two 8mm bolts holding the cylinder in, usually i try and take off the bleeder screw as well just because its easier to remove it. Then just take a good swing at the cylinder so it pops out, push the shoes out a bit and remove. To install, reverse and BLEED YOUR BRAKES. very important.
For your cv leakage.. i have no clue what he is talking about.. did he see oil on the cv boot? or is the cv boot ripped? I've never heard a mechanic say "your cv is leaking"
goodluck
Upper ball joint: i would recommend buying the whole arm, instead of pressing a b/j in and out. The 300$ quote was pretty high.. but they probably quoted the most expensive arm they can find. I've seen control arms go for 200-220$ customer cost. Anyways.. since you didn't say what side it is.. i'll quickly explain both. Pass. side you have to remove the battery, there are 14mm bolts on the strut tower on the sides. on the d/s side I'm pretty sure you have to just remove your cruise control (3 10mm bolts) just move it to the side to access the 14mm bolt. On each gen. civic its different, and I'm trying to remember 6th gens, but I'm prety sure there is a nut on the inside facing the strut, should be a 17mm. Put a wrench on there while ratcheting the bolt from outside the strut tower. Now, I should of mentioned the next part first, since it should be done before you remove the 14mm bolts. But you need to remove the cotter pin from the upper bj, remove the 17mm nut (oh and don't worry if you cant get the cotter pin completely out if its rusted, just cut it enough to get the wrench on it, then just take off the nut) Then get a BFH and swing at the knuckle untill it seperates from the bj. If this doesn't work, get a friend with a pry bar to pry up on the control arm while you take hard swings at the knuckle (were the stud of the bj goes thru) If that doesn't work.. you'll need a pickle fork ($20 at c/t). For install.. just reverse.
wheel cylinder: Remove the drum, i think there are two set screws on the drum, so get a punch and knock them loose then remove with a philips driver. First you want to remove the rear brake line. Should be a 10mm, i would use a LINE wrench for this to reduce chance of rounded off the rusted flare nut. Actually first.. i would let it soak for awhile in a good grade wd40 (i recommend moovit) Crack the nut loose, make sure the line is not twisting as you loosen the nut, if it is.. try heating up the nut for a while with a propane torch, then work the nut untill it breaks free. Next just remove the two 8mm bolts holding the cylinder in, usually i try and take off the bleeder screw as well just because its easier to remove it. Then just take a good swing at the cylinder so it pops out, push the shoes out a bit and remove. To install, reverse and BLEED YOUR BRAKES. very important.
For your cv leakage.. i have no clue what he is talking about.. did he see oil on the cv boot? or is the cv boot ripped? I've never heard a mechanic say "your cv is leaking"
goodluck
23-Aug-2008, 04:18 PM
#12
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Etobicoke
Posts: 142
first one is the control arm but i guess it doesnt have a b/j . the other one is the one with the b/j - 100$.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...QQH281508.html
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...Q101-4856.html
rockauto has them for cheaper. i might just order everything from there.
but why can't i just buy a ball joint and install that?
oh and one thing that's been bugging me so far. are all the nuts and bolts in the car in metric units or SAE? my civic is built in ohio or smth and it's USDM, even the speedometer is in mph.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...QQH281508.html
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...Q101-4856.html
rockauto has them for cheaper. i might just order everything from there.
but why can't i just buy a ball joint and install that?
oh and one thing that's been bugging me so far. are all the nuts and bolts in the car in metric units or SAE? my civic is built in ohio or smth and it's USDM, even the speedometer is in mph.
24-Aug-2008, 08:10 PM
#14
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 26
I recently found someone local on ebay and got my UCA for $28. You can also get it installed at B-Line in Mississauga on Dixie and Britanna for $50.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/UPPER-CONTROL-ARM...742.m153.l1262
give him a message and he'll help you out
Also for the CV shaft give Pro Spec a call they quoted me $130 installed for it.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/UPPER-CONTROL-ARM...742.m153.l1262
give him a message and he'll help you out
Also for the CV shaft give Pro Spec a call they quoted me $130 installed for it.
24-Aug-2008, 09:08 PM
#15
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Posts: 23,881
24-Aug-2008, 09:58 PM
#16
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this is a good time to learn some mech skills... I have done all but the rear drum part and I can say from first hand experience that none of those jobs are very hard.
A pickle fork isnt necessary to remove the upper control arm... just give it a good whack to pop it out after you remove the cotter pin and crown nut. If it start spinning with the nut use vice grip or whatever to stop it. now remove the 2-3 shock tower bolts so that you have clearness to maneuvers the control arm over the shock if it has the bracket (my Eg does...) make sure the knuckle is supported with something underneath or else you might damage other parts as it dangles. after thats done find the two 14mm both on the top and remove them. remove and reinstall and your done.
If you decide to replace the drive axle ( I wouldn't unless it was clicking on turns) try to find someone that has done it before... the lower and tire rod ball joint can be tricky because the required tool pickle fork will most likely rip the boot thus forcing you to replace the ball joint also the axle nut is a pita without an air gun...
A pickle fork isnt necessary to remove the upper control arm... just give it a good whack to pop it out after you remove the cotter pin and crown nut. If it start spinning with the nut use vice grip or whatever to stop it. now remove the 2-3 shock tower bolts so that you have clearness to maneuvers the control arm over the shock if it has the bracket (my Eg does...) make sure the knuckle is supported with something underneath or else you might damage other parts as it dangles. after thats done find the two 14mm both on the top and remove them. remove and reinstall and your done.
If you decide to replace the drive axle ( I wouldn't unless it was clicking on turns) try to find someone that has done it before... the lower and tire rod ball joint can be tricky because the required tool pickle fork will most likely rip the boot thus forcing you to replace the ball joint also the axle nut is a pita without an air gun...
25-Aug-2008, 05:19 PM
#17
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pfaff
Posts: 1,560
this is a good time to learn some mech skills... I have done all but the rear drum part and I can say from first hand experience that none of those jobs are very hard.
A pickle fork isnt necessary to remove the upper control arm... just give it a good whack to pop it out after you remove the cotter pin and crown nut. If it start spinning with the nut use vice grip or whatever to stop it. now remove the 2-3 shock tower bolts so that you have clearness to maneuvers the control arm over the shock if it has the bracket (my Eg does...) make sure the knuckle is supported with something underneath or else you might damage other parts as it dangles. after thats done find the two 14mm both on the top and remove them. remove and reinstall and your done.
If you decide to replace the drive axle ( I wouldn't unless it was clicking on turns) try to find someone that has done it before... the lower and tire rod ball joint can be tricky because the required tool pickle fork will most likely rip the boot thus forcing you to replace the ball joint also the axle nut is a pita without an air gun...
A pickle fork isnt necessary to remove the upper control arm... just give it a good whack to pop it out after you remove the cotter pin and crown nut. If it start spinning with the nut use vice grip or whatever to stop it. now remove the 2-3 shock tower bolts so that you have clearness to maneuvers the control arm over the shock if it has the bracket (my Eg does...) make sure the knuckle is supported with something underneath or else you might damage other parts as it dangles. after thats done find the two 14mm both on the top and remove them. remove and reinstall and your done.
If you decide to replace the drive axle ( I wouldn't unless it was clicking on turns) try to find someone that has done it before... the lower and tire rod ball joint can be tricky because the required tool pickle fork will most likely rip the boot thus forcing you to replace the ball joint also the axle nut is a pita without an air gun...
You don't have to lower or remove any strut bolts on EK's. Only on efs and egs
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