oil pan
#1
oil pan
hey guys got to replace oil pan gasket very soon and was wondering what is the best silicone/gasket maker to use with the seal?
last time i did it noticed that the old silicone didn't bond very well
any suggestions or advice
gary
last time i did it noticed that the old silicone didn't bond very well
any suggestions or advice
gary
#3
A new rubber gasket is the Honda/Acura norn and a bit of sealant, not silicone sealant (at the corners (2 front 2 back) where the round area of the crankshaft oil seal holder/casing meets the block flat oil pan gasket surface area) While you aare under there, check the rear and front crankshaft seals for leakage.. You can easily do the front if necessary but the rear will require either engine or transmission removal.
Last edited by nsxvtec; 01-Jan-2009 at 12:43 PM.
#4
cool thanks guys
i have the red hi temp gasket tube is that good or should i get the gray one?
can i reuse the metal exhaust manifold gasket or do you have to change it?
one last question
what is the best tranny fluid to use for the manual trans i heard GM Syncromesh is there one better or use reg Honda MTF?
thanks again guys
gary
i have the red hi temp gasket tube is that good or should i get the gray one?
can i reuse the metal exhaust manifold gasket or do you have to change it?
one last question
what is the best tranny fluid to use for the manual trans i heard GM Syncromesh is there one better or use reg Honda MTF?
thanks again guys
gary
Last edited by killer_ssn; 03-Jan-2009 at 01:54 AM.
#5
Use honda MTF if its not grinding or anything.
For silicone make sure you use a silicone that is oxygen sensor safe (very important) Also a high temp one.
Just some on the corners and dips and make sure you clean the oil pan surface and engine service very well. Make sure its dry, no dirt, silicone, etc.
For the exhaust manifold gasket, I would probably replace it, but i have re-used a few a bunch of times. Usually what I do is i'll use something sticky to seal, such as spray paint and torque to spec. let it run a few heat cycles then re-torque. If it doesnt seal unforunately you need a new gasket.
For silicone make sure you use a silicone that is oxygen sensor safe (very important) Also a high temp one.
Just some on the corners and dips and make sure you clean the oil pan surface and engine service very well. Make sure its dry, no dirt, silicone, etc.
For the exhaust manifold gasket, I would probably replace it, but i have re-used a few a bunch of times. Usually what I do is i'll use something sticky to seal, such as spray paint and torque to spec. let it run a few heat cycles then re-torque. If it doesnt seal unforunately you need a new gasket.
#6
cool
Chris V2 and zeeman to the rescue, thanks again like i said before if you need a customer I'll be happy to make you guys my mechanics...i really need one for some future projects lol
thanks again
gary
Chris V2 and zeeman to the rescue, thanks again like i said before if you need a customer I'll be happy to make you guys my mechanics...i really need one for some future projects lol
thanks again
gary
#7
i'm using GM syncromesh in my tranny (its got a high RPM 3rd gear grind) and honestly it didn't make ANY difference. I've always just used Honda MTF and next time I need to change my fluid i'll be going back to the honda MTF. The parts guy at GM first gave me the wrong fluid (it was differential fluid) so be careful if you do go to GM and make sure you get the right stuff.
Chris_v2 works at a shop in Oakville, i'm sure his shop takes new customers. PM him for the name of his shop, i'm sure he'll be glad to help you out. I think he's one of the only techs that works at his shop too.
Chris_v2 works at a shop in Oakville, i'm sure his shop takes new customers. PM him for the name of his shop, i'm sure he'll be glad to help you out. I think he's one of the only techs that works at his shop too.
#8
cool thanks
not sure if you guys could help but yesterday changed the upper rad hose with oem hose filled and bled the system but after driving the upper hose gets sucked flat (collapse) any reasons for that happening?
thermostat is 4 months old, pump/timming belt was changed in the summer
not sure if you guys could help but yesterday changed the upper rad hose with oem hose filled and bled the system but after driving the upper hose gets sucked flat (collapse) any reasons for that happening?
thermostat is 4 months old, pump/timming belt was changed in the summer
#9
As the engine cools after you shut it off, the coolant contracts. Normally, reserve fluid is drawn back into the system from the overflow bottle, with obviously the help of vacuum. If the return path has too much restriction, the vacuum increases and can collaspe a hose. Usually you see this with an old hose, second hand hoses, the wrong hose, improper rad caps, etc.
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