89 civic lx transmission removal for clutch replacement
22-May-2016, 03:38 PM
#1
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89 civic lx transmission removal for clutch replacement
Hello I'm fairly new to this but I have some basic knowledge on how to do it. I'm just having troubles with the drivetrain on the passenger side of the transmission I can't seem to get it out, any suggestions? Thanks for your time.
25-May-2016, 10:51 PM
#2
Sorry, just to clarify a little, you mean the CV shaft coming out of the trans on the pass side? If so, then you can usually get a pry bar between it and the trans and pop it out. you may need to rotate the shaft 1/4 turn, try again, 1/4 try again etc, you may be able to get the pry bar into a notch on the side of the inner cup and use it like a punch to pop the shaft that way.
26-May-2016, 06:06 PM
#3
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Yes I meant the cv shaft but not on the passenger side, the one the driver side wouldn't come out but I got it now. Tranny is out and old clutch and pressure plate is off. Turns out I accidentally ordered a cluth for a 1990 civic when I've got an 89 so I had to get a 1990 flywheel as well for the 1990 clutch to line up on an 89 tranny now just to get the damn old flywheel off the bolts won't budge I'm thinking either heat em up with a torch
26-May-2016, 10:32 PM
#4
Flywheel should be the same on all 88-00 d series trans. The dowels do only line up one way tho. You sure you don't just have them lined up wrong?
If for some reason you do need to get those bolts out, if heat is the way you go, replace them. You really only should use those once anyway. ARP makes ones that are probably cheaper than OEM. I wouldn't use any other. Kinda hard to get heat to the right part tho, you might wanna go with a cut off wheel and some time. If you're just replacing the flywheel anyway then just go around and cut the edges off the heads and a line right down the middle. When the tension is off the bolts, the left over studs will turn right out.
If for some reason you do need to get those bolts out, if heat is the way you go, replace them. You really only should use those once anyway. ARP makes ones that are probably cheaper than OEM. I wouldn't use any other. Kinda hard to get heat to the right part tho, you might wanna go with a cut off wheel and some time. If you're just replacing the flywheel anyway then just go around and cut the edges off the heads and a line right down the middle. When the tension is off the bolts, the left over studs will turn right out.
27-May-2016, 07:54 AM
#5
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Join Date: May 2016
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It's alright I managed to get them out pb blaster and some elbow Grease seemed to do the trick nicely. Thank you for your advice though. New flywheel is on and bolts torqued to 87 psi. Now just to put the new clutch on and put everything else back together. After that if head gaskets are blown like I'm guessing, onto replacing them.
