imported_Turbo-D

I wouldn't imagine it would, maybe if you sell the car it would affect it, maybe the next owner would get hit for it??

imported_Jay240

Do they check though to see if your car is actually a hot rod class?

Also if I have an aftermarket cone filter instead of factory airbox does that make it a hot rod?


I got e-test coming up.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

its nice to see turbo cars with big injectors that i've tuned pass an etest.
Mind you, i don't know why it wouldn't, its not like they take the car and run 10psi of boost throught it at 7000rpms when doing an etest (thats when the car needs to be rich...in boost).
This goes to show the importance of tuning on more than just the level of safety and power production. It also shows the reliability aspect and how well your car will run after its tuned. It runs so well, that you even passed an etest.

Turbo-D shoot me a PM or call me, when ur ready to come back and fix the start-up issue.

I had my car tested as a hot rod, my insurance company never found out, then i switched insurance companies and the new company never found out. So i wouldn't be worried about having the car run as a hot rod....besides why would your insurance company care about the estest results?

Nova_Dust

Seeing the 2nd result, would you run your car as a regular Civic 2 years after?

imported_JDMman

according to the second results your car would have past as a unmodded civic

imported_Turbo-D

Now now, don't get carried away there Zeeman. I'm all for the sales pitch, but don't get too carried away. Check the date on my post.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

hmm, didn't see that.
Was that before we tuned? I don't remember the dates of all of the cars i've tuned, althouth its not like your car was running uber crap before we tuned, it was just using stock injectors with a FMU and stock fuel pump (yuck)...lol.
But like i said in my post, its not like they're beating on your car while doing the emissions test.
So i don't know why a turbo car wouldn't pass emissions, your not the first turbo honda i've seen pass an etest.
But regardless, its very encouraging to see, especially knowing my car will be boosted in the next few days.

99y8

i had the o2 sensor on cylinder 4 with an aftermarket header one time and the guy said it is in the wrong location, but put it through anyway... the stock position should be just before your cat in the downpipe... if the shop you're at can't figure out how to extend the o2 sensor to the right location (which doesn't make any sense, because to run the wire to the front of the engine is much longer than to stock location) then I would take it somewhere else...

i got screwed over with my old car and etesting (swift gt with stage2 cams)...

haven't had a problem yet with the civic (at the time pnp head w/ upped compression, stage 2 cams, i/h/e, chipped)...

...as others have said ... put your stock header back on for the test then switch it... shouldn't take more than 1/2 hr to do... i tend to warm the car up A LITTLE BIT before I start... (note I said just a bit... so you don't fry the crap out of your fingers.. ... also the nuts should come out a bit easier... )

either way.... i feel for ya man... good luck!

imported_username

While I agree that the e-test is a cash grab, I also have to disagree...
The test does take some cars off the road that really shouldn't be on the road, or it makes them clean up their act where necessary. I agree with the part where if they (gov't) really did care about the environment they wouldn't have the conditional pass, but at least it needs a full pass to transfer ownership. The test is a pain, and I think, should be reserved for vehicles older than 4 years old, and commercial vehicles. Newer vehicles are "usually" good for the first 4-5 years if maintained. Granted there are exceptions to the rule.
There are ways around "failing" as mentioned above. "Making it pass" isn't necessarily illegal, just depends on the interpretation of the sentence. A tune-up might "make it pass", however this might not apply to your situation.
There are 2 sides to the emission test, good and bad, they get bad cars fixed or removed from service, and good cars get "taxed". It's like the old saying, one bad apple spoils the bunch. Right?

Edit: Sorry for jacking your thread!

imported_Kingjames1983

^ agreed
Its seems like the easiest thing would be to get the O2 sensor extended which they should have did in the first place cause even I could do it. Don't go back to the same place who told you that BS cause they are lazy. If I even went to my shop and they said that, I would have flipped.... besides the fact, just get your O2 extented its a permanent fix.

1sykcoupe

ASM2525 TEST


HCC ppm
limit= 75 reading= 654

co%
limit=.42
reading=.63

Curb Idle Test
limit=250
reading=265

passed everything else

imported_Kingjames1983

what motor do you have in there? what mods? tuned ecu?
more details!

imported_username

Try a tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor to start. You might have a cat problem, the infamous O2 sensor. The list goes on and on and on. Like the King says, more info!

imported_username

By the way:

A high HC reading is the result of poor combustion. The most typical cause is a poor ignition system. HC is nothing more than fuel that makes it out the tailpipe without being burned.

So, your first step on the way to compliance will be a complete ignition tuneup: plugs, wires, caps and rotors. These parts are quite reasonable at any of the Big Three suppliers. The only exception to that might be the wires-- still "reasonable" but maybe just a little price shock. Resist the urge to spend on exotic multi-electrode plugs too; their only purpose is to provide extended life on new cars. The Bosch platinums will work just fine. Don't succumb to the temptation to get "bargain" wires either. The care and time required for wire replacement make installing good wires the best investment. Some folks have replaced aging ignition coils as part of the process too, while everything is out and accessible.

The CO reading tells you about the fuel mixture. For the most part, HC and CO are unrelated, unless the mixture on a cylinder is lean enough to cause a misfire. Lean conditions result from vacuum leaks at hard/cracked/broken hoses, leaking gaskets and boots around MAF/MAS sensors, and partially clogged fuel injectors. Old vacuum and emissions hoses undoubtedly need replacing just due to age on many cars, so getting all new ones and installing them in one session is not a bad way to go.

A poor oxygen sensor might cause a lean condition severe enough to create a misfire, but an engine with reasonable ignition will easily fire with that slightly lean mixture.

So, your marching orders would read ignition tuneup as described above, a visual inspection of hoses for vacuum leaks, followed by a listen and spray, and finally a test with a good high-impedance DVM for output from the oxygen sensor.

You should also be aware that excessive HC passing to the exhaust is death on a catalyst. They are only rated to react a certain mass of fuel, so extra fuel translates to extra heat, which leads to (hopefully just) a failed substrate, but too often also results in a fire. (!!) No matter-- if you have the high HC readings at the tailpipe, new catalysts are in your future if you want to have the car clean. Often, a carefully tuned 928 will pass without catalysts working, so start off with the basics and see how you do in pre-test mode at the smog check station. Then do the cats as your budget allows. You'll breathe easier.

Taken from http://www.nichols.nu/tip517.htm

imported_honda1b6a

put rubbing alcohol in the gass or that gurntee pass stuff and drive the **** out of it for 1 hour then go back while the engine is hot,, always works for my ride.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

i wouldn't use bosch spark plugs in a honda.....get NGK v-power copper cores....the cheapest of the NGK family and also what you would get if you went to honda and asked for spark plugs, but you'd pay $8 a plug at honda, you can get them for $7 for a set of 2 plugs from part source or canadian tire.
I'd also go ahead and check/adjust the base timing via the distributor with a timing light as well.

imported_chris_v2

what ecu

what motor?

1sykcoupe

2000 b16a2 p28 chipped

imported_Kingjames1983

theres your problem... chipped ECU probably just to run more fuel, most of the chips are for 1.8 so the dump the fuel in!
get a stock ecu somehow and then run it or take your ecu and get it tuned properly by zeeman or someone decent

imported_chris_v2

get zeeman to check out your chip.