turbo sohc or dohc?
#41
I'm under the assumption that the OP is driving a stockish hatch, in which case a swapped hatch will be faster in a straight line no doubt, but an rsx (or prelude) will still outhandle, and outbrake and ultimately pull more pootytang then any ek/eg hatch will.
put it this way, I'd rather track a stock rsx/lude over a crazy fast civic with rear drums, stock brakes and no suspension (not to mention the crappy uncomfortable stock seats).
And also I'm not sure that it will actually be cheaper. Assuming OP can sell his car for 4-5k, rsx-s' can be had for around that money, and DEFINATELY preludes. You can find mint 01 ludes with super low km's for like 7.
put it this way, I'd rather track a stock rsx/lude over a crazy fast civic with rear drums, stock brakes and no suspension (not to mention the crappy uncomfortable stock seats).
And also I'm not sure that it will actually be cheaper. Assuming OP can sell his car for 4-5k, rsx-s' can be had for around that money, and DEFINATELY preludes. You can find mint 01 ludes with super low km's for like 7.
#44
I'm under the assumption that the OP is driving a stockish hatch, in which case a swapped hatch will be faster in a straight line no doubt, but an rsx (or prelude) will still outhandle, and outbrake and ultimately pull more pootytang then any ek/eg hatch will.
put it this way, I'd rather track a stock rsx/lude over a crazy fast civic with rear drums, stock brakes and no suspension (not to mention the crappy uncomfortable stock seats).
And also I'm not sure that it will actually be cheaper. Assuming OP can sell his car for 4-5k, rsx-s' can be had for around that money, and DEFINATELY preludes. You can find mint 01 ludes with super low km's for like 7.
put it this way, I'd rather track a stock rsx/lude over a crazy fast civic with rear drums, stock brakes and no suspension (not to mention the crappy uncomfortable stock seats).
And also I'm not sure that it will actually be cheaper. Assuming OP can sell his car for 4-5k, rsx-s' can be had for around that money, and DEFINATELY preludes. You can find mint 01 ludes with super low km's for like 7.
But who would want to track a stock car?
#45
Sup guys.. I'd have to cast my support behind the D-series... I am currently building my D16y7 to handle boost and i also have a back up B-series swap and as far as pricing goes i'd stick with the D series..
I purchased piston and rods for $400... the Vitara pistons are good for about 18 -20lbs of boost which isn't too shabby for pistons that aren't complately forged... the weak point are the rods but those can be had for a fair price...I contacted candian cylinder heads to have the block assembled as i can put the head on myself... If you are willing to get your hands dirty then building a D-series can be very cheap...the complete B18b swap cost me $900 and it is a used engine... for the same $900 i have a built block ready for boost... in the state of my wallet at this point the D series wins hands down for me...
I purchased piston and rods for $400... the Vitara pistons are good for about 18 -20lbs of boost which isn't too shabby for pistons that aren't complately forged... the weak point are the rods but those can be had for a fair price...I contacted candian cylinder heads to have the block assembled as i can put the head on myself... If you are willing to get your hands dirty then building a D-series can be very cheap...the complete B18b swap cost me $900 and it is a used engine... for the same $900 i have a built block ready for boost... in the state of my wallet at this point the D series wins hands down for me...
#46
Sup guys.. I'd have to cast my support behind the D-series... I am currently building my D16y7 to handle boost and i also have a back up B-series swap and as far as pricing goes i'd stick with the D series..
I purchased piston and rods for $400... the Vitara pistons are good for about 18 -20lbs of boost which isn't too shabby for pistons that aren't complately forged... the weak point are the rods but those can be had for a fair price...I contacted candian cylinder heads to have the block assembled as i can put the head on myself... If you are willing to get your hands dirty then building a D-series can be very cheap...the complete B18b swap cost me $900 and it is a used engine... for the same $900 i have a built block ready for boost... in the state of my wallet at this point the D series wins hands down for me...
I purchased piston and rods for $400... the Vitara pistons are good for about 18 -20lbs of boost which isn't too shabby for pistons that aren't complately forged... the weak point are the rods but those can be had for a fair price...I contacted candian cylinder heads to have the block assembled as i can put the head on myself... If you are willing to get your hands dirty then building a D-series can be very cheap...the complete B18b swap cost me $900 and it is a used engine... for the same $900 i have a built block ready for boost... in the state of my wallet at this point the D series wins hands down for me...
#49
I'm under the assumption that the OP is driving a stockish hatch, in which case a swapped hatch will be faster in a straight line no doubt, but an rsx (or prelude) will still outhandle, and outbrake and ultimately pull more pootytang then any ek/eg hatch will.
put it this way, I'd rather track a stock rsx/lude over a crazy fast civic with rear drums, stock brakes and no suspension (not to mention the crappy uncomfortable stock seats).
And also I'm not sure that it will actually be cheaper. Assuming OP can sell his car for 4-5k, rsx-s' can be had for around that money, and DEFINATELY preludes. You can find mint 01 ludes with super low km's for like 7.
put it this way, I'd rather track a stock rsx/lude over a crazy fast civic with rear drums, stock brakes and no suspension (not to mention the crappy uncomfortable stock seats).
And also I'm not sure that it will actually be cheaper. Assuming OP can sell his car for 4-5k, rsx-s' can be had for around that money, and DEFINATELY preludes. You can find mint 01 ludes with super low km's for like 7.
#50
civic- $3,500
suspension- $1,000 for coils
rear disc swap- $200
***note I'm not including other things that most people would want to do, (ie. seats, steering wheel etc)
Now add either (I think these are pretty conservative estimates as well)
b18c5 swap- $3,500 (including labour+ miscellaneous things)
OR
Boost- at least $3,000 including tune
PLUS you risk having insurance dropping your *** for having all of these mods and not informing them...
or you can buy an rsx/lude for the same money, have a superbly comfortable dd that already meets your power goals, will have reasonable resale because it hasn't been butchered.
At the end of the day if your car is a 14second car, might as well do it in comfort and style.
I'm not trying to knock anyone with a modded civic, if you can do the work yourself it's definately worth it, but if you need to pay someone to do the work, the costs add up quickly.
#51
Most of the people who seem to arguing otherwise seem to work at shops, or are very mechanically inclined, so I think you are dramatically underestimating the costs of labour. Suspension swaps are like $200, plus ~$100ish for an alignment.
#53
civic- $3,500
suspension- $1,000 for coils (WHY?)
rear disc swap- $200 (WHY?)
This is personal experience for myself... but coils are required for a suspension set up i'm a firm believer in the strut/spring combo.. and it won't cost $1G..
as for the rear disc conversion than can be left along because it weighs more then the drum set up and braking systems have come a very long way to make drum brakes hold just as well as disc.. so it's not required... your pricing is a little off but i understand where you are coming from...
please take note of this point tho.. building a 200hp car and buying a 200hp car are 2 totally different things.. I've owned a few boosted cars and a few cars that came from factory as power houses... factory power is applied way more gently than a car any of us would build.. plus this is an carguy club if you are gonna settle for a stock car and not waste your money to enjoy it then whats the point of being a car guy...
suspension- $1,000 for coils (WHY?)
rear disc swap- $200 (WHY?)
This is personal experience for myself... but coils are required for a suspension set up i'm a firm believer in the strut/spring combo.. and it won't cost $1G..
as for the rear disc conversion than can be left along because it weighs more then the drum set up and braking systems have come a very long way to make drum brakes hold just as well as disc.. so it's not required... your pricing is a little off but i understand where you are coming from...
please take note of this point tho.. building a 200hp car and buying a 200hp car are 2 totally different things.. I've owned a few boosted cars and a few cars that came from factory as power houses... factory power is applied way more gently than a car any of us would build.. plus this is an carguy club if you are gonna settle for a stock car and not waste your money to enjoy it then whats the point of being a car guy...
#54
civic- $3,500
suspension- $1,000 for coils (WHY?)
rear disc swap- $200 (WHY?)
This is personal experience for myself... but coils are required for a suspension set up i'm a firm believer in the strut/spring combo.. and it won't cost $1G..
as for the rear disc conversion than can be left along because it weighs more then the drum set up and braking systems have come a very long way to make drum brakes hold just as well as disc.. so it's not required... your pricing is a little off but i understand where you are coming from...
please take note of this point tho.. building a 200hp car and buying a 200hp car are 2 totally different things.. I've owned a few boosted cars and a few cars that came from factory as power houses... factory power is applied way more gently than a car any of us would build.. plus this is an carguy club if you are gonna settle for a stock car and not waste your money to enjoy it then whats the point of being a car guy...
suspension- $1,000 for coils (WHY?)
rear disc swap- $200 (WHY?)
This is personal experience for myself... but coils are required for a suspension set up i'm a firm believer in the strut/spring combo.. and it won't cost $1G..
as for the rear disc conversion than can be left along because it weighs more then the drum set up and braking systems have come a very long way to make drum brakes hold just as well as disc.. so it's not required... your pricing is a little off but i understand where you are coming from...
please take note of this point tho.. building a 200hp car and buying a 200hp car are 2 totally different things.. I've owned a few boosted cars and a few cars that came from factory as power houses... factory power is applied way more gently than a car any of us would build.. plus this is an carguy club if you are gonna settle for a stock car and not waste your money to enjoy it then whats the point of being a car guy...
#55
Derrickk, the 'best' car for any one individual is up to that person's individual preference. If you prefer to buy a newer car over modifying an older car, then that is your preference.
The fact is; the OP asked if he should boost a d motor or swap in a b motor etc... he didn't ask if he should just buy a whole new car instead. He obviously likes his civic and, like many of us, sees the personal value in it. Don't try to press on everyone else that your preference is a better option then everyone elses. It is simply your preference.
To each his own.
The fact is; the OP asked if he should boost a d motor or swap in a b motor etc... he didn't ask if he should just buy a whole new car instead. He obviously likes his civic and, like many of us, sees the personal value in it. Don't try to press on everyone else that your preference is a better option then everyone elses. It is simply your preference.
To each his own.
#56
yeah, building a 200hp car is totally different from buying a 200hp car.
and no i would never buy a rsx or a lude. i understand that you probably like the car more, and like that newer feeling, but i wouldnt get any other honda than a eg hatch or dc2. i come from a compolete 240sx background, so my interest/knowledge all lies there.
my hatch is an si, so it already has rear discs, and its not that stock (other than the engine). it's got coils w/ new bushings, lca /w new bushings, strut/stabilizer bars, wheels, and soon new rotors + pads. so it can comfortably handle 200
anyway, im not interested in buying a new car, im just trying to have some fun with this car before i sell it and go back to 240s
and no i would never buy a rsx or a lude. i understand that you probably like the car more, and like that newer feeling, but i wouldnt get any other honda than a eg hatch or dc2. i come from a compolete 240sx background, so my interest/knowledge all lies there.
my hatch is an si, so it already has rear discs, and its not that stock (other than the engine). it's got coils w/ new bushings, lca /w new bushings, strut/stabilizer bars, wheels, and soon new rotors + pads. so it can comfortably handle 200
anyway, im not interested in buying a new car, im just trying to have some fun with this car before i sell it and go back to 240s
#58
If you build it right with proper parts and use it responsibly, you shouldn't have to drop coin that often... I know a few guys that since swapping to Sr20 and KaT are still not breaking parts and to be honest a honda is as reliable as they come..
#59
in the end you would still need to do alot of internal work/rebuild work and performance parts ie, turbo, to the D motor to get 200whp
when you can get a B with light mods ie i/h/e and get 200whp
so ultimatly the B series motor has greater potential
thats why im leaving my d alone till i have enough cash for my B swap.
altho having a pimped out D thatl blow a stock B awap is pretty cool, untill you line up with the pimped out B thatl blow that stock k swap LOL
when you can get a B with light mods ie i/h/e and get 200whp
so ultimatly the B series motor has greater potential
thats why im leaving my d alone till i have enough cash for my B swap.
altho having a pimped out D thatl blow a stock B awap is pretty cool, untill you line up with the pimped out B thatl blow that stock k swap LOL