devingodard

i am just starting to read about it now figured id get your guys opinions on it. and yes sorry methanol injection lol.

what did you think of ls rods in the d16? i thought it sounds pretty good

devingodard

also wat is the purpose of a vacuum mani? why would u need that? if you can just t into a line at the brake booster for a boost gauage what does the mani do?

MPR

If you are running an oem style intake manifold, there's really no need for a vacuum mani. Vacuum mani are just a way of organizing all the vacuum lines that need to be run to various components.

Usually a vacuum manifold it required when running individual throttle bodies, but you won't have to worry about that.

devingodard

ok i wasnt sure i seen a diy turbo install and the guy used a vacuum mani so i wasnt sure..,...

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

vacuum manifolds clean everything up nicely and eliminate the need to have a bunch of "tees" in your vacuum lines.

Its just a pet peeve of mine when you tee a line (for BOV) thats been tee'd already (for boost gauge), then tee it again for the wastegate.

For what you can make one for its definately worth doing IMO. All you need is the manifold, which you can purchase locally from a hydraulic store along with any of the fittings. You'll need two 1/2" barbed fittings (for the brake booster line) and however many 3/8" fittings you'll be using and 1-2 plugs to plug the ones you're not using.

Most vacuum manis have 6-7 ports, with 2 on either end so you can run it inline with the brake boosters big fat vacuum line, 4 on the one long-side and 1 on the other long-side.

Fortunately for me, I was using an aftermarket intake manifold (AEBS) which had like 6-7 vacuum ports which varied in size, all on the backside of it, to keep everything nice and clean. I used every port on it too, so imagine how many "tees" I would have needed if I was using the stock manifold lol. I had a line for the PCV valve/crankvent mini, a line for my boost gauge, a line for my BOV, a line for my electronic boost controller (Apex-i AVCR), a line for my fuel pressure regulator, a line for my MAP sensor (firewall mounted style) and of course the big line for my brake booster.

I like them personally and if you don't buy a name brand one and make one yourself they're under $20 and can really clean up the engine bay on a turbo car.

If you only have a BOV and boost gauge to run, then you can "tee" the fuel pressure regulator line for your BOV and "tee" the EVAP line (after the solenoid) for the gauge or the line for the cruise control (if you have an EK) or even the PCV valve line.

MPR

On the MR2 we ran a separate dedicated line for the boost gauge, bov and ecu (which also controls boost). On the 4age intake mani, it had all the vacuum ports necessary. We actually had to plug most of them.

I guess on an engine where not enough proper ports are available, a vacuum manifold isn't a bad idea. I've just never heard of using one with a typical log intake mani before.

devingodard

now the after market intake mani with the extra vacuum ports, could i make a stock mani with extra ports or would that throw everything off? i can get most of my machining and drill/tapping done for free thats why im askin

MPR

You can drill and tap the stock mani to make as many ports as you want. Just do that with the mani OFF the engine so you can clean out all the metal filings and shavings...lol

boing

I've done this myself with good results a few times

devingodard

lol ya im no tthat noob. i will prob drill and tap a y8 intake mani and put it on my y7 before turbo. I knnow i need a auto y8 for the 3 wire iacv

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

if you're turboing the car, you're probably converting to OBD1 (so you can get tuned) right? If so, you'll need the 5spd y8 intake manifold b/c the OBD1 ecus can only control a 2-wire IACV.

devingodard

i was going to leave it obd2 and get a jumper harness? cause i dont want to pull all the wiring and put in obd1. so i would have to run a 3 wire iacv no?

devingodard

also i was reading another thread you were on zeeman your all over the place on here lol. but as far a a resistor box i wont need one right even using the dsm injectors being high impedence?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

Well all you need to do to convert an OBD2 car to OBD1 is get a jumper harness and OBD1 ecu, theres no pulling any wiring out or anything like that. Its literally plug and play, unplug the stock ECU, plug wiring harness into the OBD2-OBD1 jumper harness and plug the OBD1 ecu into the jumper harness.

If you're using DSM injectors (which are low impedance) in any 92-00 civic you'll need to use a resistor box, this is b/c the 92-00 civics use high impedance injectors which don't require a resistor box so they don't have the resistor box from the factory.

You can use the box from any 88-91 civic/CRX or 90-91 integra or from the car you're getting the injectors from.

devingodard

Ya that was the plan for the ecu swap and yes sorry i got my high and lows mixed up lol.....thanks i know i can buy high impedance injectors but i heard they will be more expensive by quite a bit is this true?

K-Tuned

Personally I'd recommend High Impedence Injectors. The prices have really come down a lot and with the current USD/CAD dollar you can get some great prices.

Here are some great prices from Xenocron in the US.
Xenocron Tuning: Precision Injectors and Accessories, 310cc, 440cc, 525cc, 650cc, 680cc, 780cc, 880cc, 1000cc for Honda and Acura Applications

I was tuning a Car with a set of DSM (low Imp) 450cc injectors last week. The customer installed them just before we started tuning. About 60 minutes into the tune one of the injectors just decided to quit! Not something you want to have happen when you are in the middle of tune. The good news is that we had a set of 450cc low-z injectors kicking around and we were able to finish the car and get the customer driving home.

I'm telling you this as an FYI. Try avoiding buying used OEM injectors, especially if they have been sitting for a long time. A good set of High-z injectors is the way to go and 9 times out of 10 leads to a better tune.

devingodard

That is a good call i forgot about the dollar being at par. And since it will be my first turbo set up maybe making life easier is a good plan..........


JUst a question prb the wrong place for it but does anyone know if the stock fly wheel is strong enough to be lightened in any way? i.e. holes or thinned out? i would like to get a lighter one and maybe a clutch when i pull the engine our to put in the one im putting together this winter. (y8 block, z6 head, z6 crank, ls connecting rods) and i het my machining done for free so if the stock one can take soem milling or some holes i can do it.

MPR

^I don't know how much lightening the stock fly wheel can handle, but you can find used lightweight flywheels for pretty cheap. I bought an exedy 8lb flywheel for my b16 of $100 and it came with a complete b20 block/bottom end...lol. The deals are out there.

I'd be careful having the stock flywheel milled because it needs to be PERFECTLY balanced.

devingodard

o i know i just figured it might be like the rest of the botttom end lol (bulletproof). but i have pretty much a machine shop and machinist that can do it all and every tool you can imagine for machining. (gfs dad) the trick is gettin him out there to do it :P lol.

I will prob just find a used one i know they arent even that expensive new either

antrmo

wow great write up.. in the begining stages of buying a turbo kit.... thx..