devingodard

Just wondering i have a d16y7 planning on puttin y8 intake mani on it and probably send the head out for a p&p. And hopefully half way through the summer a turbo. Now i know this is a terrible stupid question but i ahve never considered or looked into boosting or any kind of ecu upgrade, i was wondering can i run a turbo on a obd2 ecu? if not what obd1 comp should i run thanks in advance

devingodard

Also i am looking at a g reddy fmu. And is there any other recomended upgrades, This car will be a daily driver and i would like it as reliable as possible

Fr0z3N

use a conversion harness to an obd1 ecu

devingodard

is there a reason for this? will it not work at all obd2? just tryin to get all my sh#t straight before going ahead

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

you don't want to use an obd2 ecu OR a FMU.

Like frozen said convert to obd1 and get the car tuned.

You'll also need bigger fuel injectors (450cc or larger), a walbro 255lph fuel pump and 1 step colder spark plugs.

All you need is a chipped p06 for your d16y7 since it has no vtec.

devingodard

thanks a lot guys i am looking at gettin a full kit and def some fuel injectors. didnt know about the fuel pump though. Is there any other ecu choice i could go with cause my friend races circle track with a civ and i can get **** off him for free but im not sure wat kind of ecu's he has kickin around

D.T.P

Get p28 ecu.
Also, make sure you do not cheap out on the kit for turbo. Do NOT buy an ebay kit. if you have any further questions about turbo, dont hesitate to ask but this has been covered before so search tool is your friend.

devingodard

thanks to all who answered helped out a lot

devingodard

o and one more thing i cant seem to find if i switch to obd1 can i just plug the conv harness then the comp or is there anything else i have to change? i read a dizzy and knock sensor crank sensor? but this was all prelude stuff i couldnt find anything for civ

D.T.P

Just swap in the converstion harness with the p28 and you'll be good.

MPR

Remember this: Reliable, Fast, Cheap. Pick 2.

Do LOTS of reading a research. You can never research too much on forced induction.

Use quality parts and do it right. Are you planning on doing the work yourself or do you have a shop in mind that will do the work for you?

FlashEngineer

I used to have a custom homemade turbo Civic (2000 Si), I got parts from junkyard and other places. You'd want DSM 450cc injectors. I might still have some parts if you're looking to turbo a D16 engine, PM me.

My method was with a older Subaru turbo from 1992 car. I've used an SMC unit to control a/f which is piggy back for the ECU, wasn't great but it ran fine and I had around 150ft-lbs torque.

devingodard

planning on doing most of the work by myself. I have one lots of work on cars ( heads, cams, pistons valves, timing belt water pump, full swaps) Just never any turbo. Im fairly confident i can do it if not i have two mechanics in my family who one does circle track racing and the other worked on a drag race team so if i run into anything i cant do i will get there help.. O and the tune clearly im not doing still workin on finding a place for that. And good call on the pick two reliable fast cheap line!!!

MPR

Good that you can do the work yourself...will save you a lot of money in labor costs. Even though you may know mechanics and couple people who have done a bit of racing, doesn't mean they will have the necessary knowledge when it comes to turbocharging. There is a lot that most mechanics don't know when it comes to installation and tuning.

If you do have any issues I suggest you post up your questions here. Some of us have extensive knowledge in turbocharging/tuning vehicles, especially hondas, and we'd be happy you help.

What sort of budget do you have and what are your power goals?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

This is an extremely good point!

I'll give a good few examples of things commonly overlooked by a lot of shops/mechanics.

Having a proper oil return line setup on your car is CRUCIAL. This means a few things, such as the fitting that gets welded into the oil pan NEEDS to be above the oil level in the oil pan, the turbo not being clocked more than a certain degree past vertical, the oil return line not going flat/horizontal for too long of a distance and that you actually weld a steel fitting into your steel (or aluminium in a few applications) oil pan and not just run some random fitting you thread into the oil pan.

Not having an adequate oil return line causes things like premature turbo wear and failure due to the excess pressure of oil not draining out of the turbo freely. I've actually seen a setup so poor that it caused a smaller turbo not to spool on a larger engine until 5000+rpms. In this case the oil return line of the turbo went directly into where the oil pan drain bolt goes, essentially acting as an external resivoir for the oil pan, the oil would always be sitting in the return line and not draining without the force of the new oil being pushed into the turbo.

Another thing i've seen alot with inexperienced guys doin the install is on obd2 civics just either leaving the IAT sensor hanging (usually hidden behind the intake manifold) or unplugging the IAT all together and not doing anything about it.

The problem here is that on obd2 civics the IAT sensor sits in a grommet in your intake piping after the air filter, if you do this on a boosted setup everytime you go into boost the IAT sensor would get shot out of the grommet and you'd have a boost leak lol. So what needs to be done is run that IAT sensor in a pre-turbo pipe (like the greddy kit does b/c the compressor is on the passenger side and the turbine exits on the drivers side) OR use the obd1 style IAT sensor and install it on your charge piping preferrably close to the throttle body. This style gets secured to the intake manifold (on obd1 cars) with screws so you can screw it to your charge piping and flatten the pipe a little to make a good seal for the sensor, or i've seen these adaptors to weld into your charge pipe to allow for the use of the obd1 style IAT sensor.

If you're IAT sensor isn't set up properly and just hanging there its going to be reading the temperature of the air in the engine bay, which I assure you gets much hotter than the temperature of the air actually entering the engine.

This is bad b/c the ECU uses the IAT sensor's reading and calculates a "correction factor" to be added to the fuel being delivered AND the ignition timing. So if the IAT sensor is reading 140 degrees b/c your sitting there in traffic and the engine bay is super hot your ECU will be adding this "correction factor" and causing the car to run differently. Yes, you can tune accordingly for this BUT your IAT sensor isn't actually reading the temperature of the air entering your engine so its not the least bit accurate.

Having at least a somewhat half-decent wastegate dumptube setup is important. This is b/c you don't want the exhaust gases to be able to get sucked back up by the turbo, or enter into the passenger cabin. You also don't want the wastegate dump to enter the downpipe too close to the turbo b/c this will cause the turbo to not be able to breath as well, this only applies if you're wastegate dumptube setup is closed or recirculated (which is technically the legal way).

Paying attention to the things like this are what can keep your setup going strong for years, keep the costs down (since you're not constantly replacing your cheap/broken parts and/or paying to get it fixed) and what separate the good shops from the not so good ones.

MPR

Just to add to that...Idealy you want the IAT sensor in the intake manifold or at least in the charge pipe AFTER the intercooler for the most accurate reading which will help you achive a better tune.

When air gets compressed it heats up. So the air entering the turbo will be a different temp then the air exiting the turbo. And it's the same for the air before and after the intercooler. So you wouldn't really want the IAT sensor before the turbo as the actual temp of the air entering the engine could/will be completely different.

That's why it best to have the IAT after the air has been compressed/heated by the turbo and cooled by the intercooler.

devingodard

i know mine is obd2 and im planning on switching to obd1 and yes like you said my iat sensor just plugs into a gromet after the filter ad b4 the throttle body and yes an old lady with arthritis could pull it out. But i didnt knwo that there would be that much pressure pushing that way especially with a biv. SO would a fix be to cut the wires solder longer ones on, heat shrink of course extend to after the intercooler and turo and weld in a threaded peice and see about gettin a threadable iat sensor?

if so does anyone know where i could get one i do have a parts guy i get **** at cost from but i also have a close friend whos dad gets cars and parts for pretty much free from the scrap yard. what kind of car would have a threaded iat sensor? and would it ahve to be honda/ acura? where would it be located on the engine?

Thanks for all the help and suppport. im not aiming for huge numbers id be happy to get 200. And im looking at spend around 2000, only because the only real money i will be puttin out is for the turbo everything else i have lined up even a p and p from a rebuild shop you guys migth even know in bradfrod called the Guild. But my nnieghbour said i can get one done on head and intake through im for hopefully aorund 300-400.

But with a p and p intake and head, turbo, y8 mani, chipped ecu. Wat do u guys see comin as far as hp goes?

MPR

It depends on the tune how much power it will make (to a point), not necessarily on the parts you use. But if you don't use quality parts, they won't stand up to the abuse.

You should make a power goal and build it for that. 200hp seems reasonable for what your are planning to do, but $2000 may not be enough. Better hope you can get good parts for next to nothing. If you know what you're doing and where to get good parts cheap, you can do it on 2g's.

Yeah, boost will push out a sensor just held in with a gromet, easy. If you tune with a chipped obd 1 honda ecu, I'm not sure which IAT sensors would be compatible, zeeman would know.

devingodard

k thanks ill wait to see what he says......but ya 200 would be nice but i would even be happy with 175 180 ish.. im lookin into buying a new car withiin the the next year and a half plus this car wont be drivin in the winter after i get the body finished up..

devingodard

and i have alink to most of my parts like a close to new y7 head for p and p im trading a guy for an a6 head that was rebuilt. the p and p as said will be pretty much half price and any oem **** i need i get for garage prices if not less. the ecu i found for 100 chipped. and the conversion harness im still lookin for one in canada